2003 seadoo xpdi first issue

[bdesim2]

Hello everyone just wanted to introduce my self and say hello.

Earlier this year I purchased 2 low hour MINT condition 2003 xpdi's they have been awesome and problem free until now.

I have read through a lot of threads regarding these skis and am familiar with some of the known issues. I just wanted to get some opinions before I start to tear into the ski that I am having issues with.

I have owned and worked on many skis in the past of all different brands but these are my first seadoos so I'm just looking for a little guidance.

Here's the problem:
When trying to start the ski I put on the key and get the familiar two beeps. I do NOT hear the fuel pump power up. Ski has 0 fuel pressure. If I dribble gas into the spark plug holes ski will start.

Here's what I have checked so far and my questions:
1) fuses on by the mpem... Are there more ? Or just those?
2) checked all electrical connections to the fuel pump everything looks fine. Could it just be a bad pump?

The good news: I have the second ski to swap parts for testing and I know the mpem is good. (Starts the other ski)

Any Help would be greatly appreciated. As I said I'm new to the xpdi but so far I love the skis

Thanks,
Brian


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[bdesim2]

Any ideas anyone? Really would like to get this fixed before the weekend. Was hoping to do some riding over the holiday.


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[68ragtop]

The pump should run for a few seconds when you install the key, so I would try two things. 1, put a voltmeter, or test light on the fuel pump wires to see if you get voltage, 2, you can supply your own voltage source to the pump directly to see if it will run. the pressure regulators in the rail are mechanical, so you can power the pump directly while having no power to the rest of the ski. Only precaution I would give is to hook the connection on the pump first, then the battery out of the ski. making a spark under the hood & near the gas tank would be a very, very BAD idea. So do this test at your own risk & comfort level & take great care with the connections

There is a fuel pump fuse in the mpem.

The power wires are pink/black (pump negative) purple/pink (pump positive)

 

[bdesim2]

Thanks! I will try this and report back. I'll make sure to have tight connections and use the battery outside of the ski. Don't any any explosions taking place.


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[bdesim2]

Ok so I did a few tests with the following results:
1) measured voltage on purple/pink and got 12.6 volts (same as my battery voltage) both when the key is inserted and while cranking.
2) applied 12 volts to the pump directly and heard no hum.

Its looking like a bad fuel pump. Looks like I'll be ordering a pump.


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[Coastiejoe]

I agree,,, sounds like the pump....

 

[Coastiejoe]

FYI,, aftermarket pumps for the Di ski do not normally hold up well. [MENTION=41828]Minnetonka4me[/MENTION] may have a good used pump. The OEM pump is not a cheap item..

 

[68ragtop]

Do you measure any resistance on the pump motor? I would consider removing the fuel baffle & pump for inspection before ordering anything. But it would appear you have it pinned down. I doubt its an in tank wring issue, but still worth removing the pump first to test it out of the tank one more time.

 

[Minnetonka4me]

I do actually have the correct assembly in stock. The XP-dis were different than all the rest. PM me if you need it.

 

[bdesim2]

I did not measure the resistance on the pump motor. I will do that today before ordering a pump.
[MENTION=41828]Minnetonka4me[/MENTION] thanks for the offer. I will let you know if I need anything. I have heard good results with the latest from fast flow fuel pumps. Any input from you guys? I may give it a try and see what happens before spending big bucks on the oem pump.

What's the easiest way to replace the pump? Can it be done with the motor in the ski? Or do I have to pull it and slide the tank forward. Any input on this would be appreciated.


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[bdesim2]

I want to remove this fuel pump today. Any advice on the order of how I should remove it... From what I can see easiest is with motor out of the ski. ( I'd rather not remove it)

Advice ?


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[bdesim2]

Finally replaced my fuel pump this weekend. Ski started right up and idled beautifully. Took it for a ride and the ski can hit wot 6800 or around there. However this is now a slight miss at wot and if you are at idle or mid range and slam the throttle it bogs down and will take a few seconds to start to rev up. Could this be the new fuel pump that I just replaced. Fuel pressure is 107 psi at idle and when revving.

What's next to check?

Thanks


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[68ragtop]

If its not tripping the "maint" service light & buzzer, my guess would be its fuel or air pressure related. The fuel & air pressure needs to be there at all times. While 107 is the magic number, it will actually creep past that reading a little under higher RPM's & demand. There's a chance yours is dropping below that number under those conditions. Did you find an oem pump? It seems the aftermarket ones can still be a crapshoot. A healthy oem pump can dead head a pressure of over 150 PSI. They are a crazy strong efficient pump. IF you have an aftermarket pump, it could be that it is making just barley enough pressure

Seeing you already have the means to check the fuel pressure, you might want to see if there is a way you can test it on the water & read the gage. Might need a long piece of high pressure hose?

In your first post you mentioned it ran problem free before. Was this under your control, or the previous owners? Did you buy the ski with this problem? If it really was perfect before, & now its not, that would make me think the fuel pump is still probably your issue.

 

[bdesim2]

There is no maint light or warning.

I decided to experiment and try the HFP-342DI. I know there have been hit or miss results with this pump.

I am going to hook up a gauge to check pressure when it is running and take it for a short ride. But from what I'm finding and what you are saying I'll probably be biting the bullet and looking for an oem pump.

I had the machine in my possession when it was running well.

I have a second xpdi that something weird electrically is going on as well but still runs fine. (That's a topic for another thread though) need to get this one figured out first.

Is there anywhere I can get a new oem pump? If I'm going to be buying an expensive pump I might as well go new vs used and risk it happening again.

Thanks for all your help.


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[68ragtop]

New OEM pumps are crazy expensive. not just hundreds, but many hundreds. That's if you can find one.

If these original pumps have not been sitting in a water laced ethanol fuel filed tank, or run with plugged up strainer filters, that can run a really long time. They get a bad wrap because of the environment they get put into. In post #9 Tonka offered up a used one to you. I would check with him? He would not let a suspect pump go out of his door, & if by some chance it was bad, he would stand behind it. He has that reputation around here. Anything else is a crapshoot. Might save a buck buying something else, but you might be doing it twice, or in this case a third time.

If your machine ran fine before the pump failed, either something got messed up during the install, or you have a bad pump. That would be my best guess from what your saying anyway.

 

[bdesim2]

Thanks for all your input ragtop. I'm going to look over my install of the pump one more time before giving up but I'll most likely buy an oem pump. I don't like redoing work that's for sure. The next pump I buy will be oem... But since I already have the high flow I'm going to make sure I had everything 100 percent. I'll get in touch with tonka if I need an oem pump.

Thanks again for all your help and input.

I'll post back my results here when I have them.



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[68ragtop]

Do you have a pressure gage set up in the fuel line yet? any way to set it up so you can water test it? a drop in pressure could be the air pump too, but would be quite a coincidence to have both go bad at the same time on you

fuel pressure gauges on DI's make me nervous. I am always worried somebody might use a 50 PSI fuel injection line, or lack of clamps & have fuel spray everywhere while testing. I made my test gauge with used DI fuel lines & connectors. No splicing anything & takes a few seconds to hook up. Plenty of ways to do it, just a crazy amount of pressure for a fuel line.

 

[jhjesse]

Here you go 275500585:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/171827118340?item=171827118340&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466&rmvSB=true

Good price!

edit: Sorry didn't see that it was used.

 

[bdesim2]

I had the gauge teed into the line with high pressure line. I'm going to see if I can get some di line with the connectors on them like you did. That was my initial thought anyway. I don't want any accidents. Any suggestions are appreciated. I want to be able to quickly connect in a gauge at anytime I want to test it. Maybe send me a pic of your setup. I don't have the most accurate gauge now anyway... I may jay purchase a good one. I love my di skis and now that I'm starting to have issues I'm going to need the tools anyway.


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[68ragtop]

Mine is pretty simple. I had bought a fuel rail a while back that came with the hoses.
They worked perfectly.
I used brass fittings with barbed edges.

 

[bdesim2]

That looks like what I wanted to build. Did you use just an automotive gauge that went to say 200 psi?


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[bdesim2]

Maybe Tonka has some old fuel lines he would sell me. I need a steering cable too... It's one thing after another ... Haha


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[Coastiejoe]

If I dribble gas into the spark plug holes ski will start.

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To clarify, it runs for a moment or continues to run once it starts?

 

[bdesim2]

That was before I replaced the fuel pump with the high flow model. Now it will start and run but it Bogs when slamming the throttle at mid range and low speeds. Will build up slowly to wot no problem. Takes a few seconds though.


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[jhjesse]

A lot of people have had really good results with the after market pumps, so I did some reading on Doowacka's fuel pump replacement thread. People who had flow problems after replacing the pump were given replacements that solved the problem. Also I read where one person replaced the canister filter and solved the flow problem. I don't know if you have changed the filter or not, but if you haven't it might be worth a try.