2003 GTX 4-tec starter won't turn over the engine

[als2012]

Had an issue with my GTX 4-tec at the end of the season last year, the starter solenoid shorted and would not stop running the starter. Took me about two minutes to get a screwdriver to disconnect the battery to stop the starter. So I replaced the solenoid over the winter but then when I would try to start the ski I would get a single click from the relay but the starter would not turn the engine over. (Battery was brand new and fully charged.) I jumped the posts on the relay just to make sure the new solenoid wasn't part of the issue- but had the same result- the starter would not turn the engine over.

So I just put in a new starter (PITA job for sure.) I decided to test it before buttoning everything up and used jumper cables from a fully charged battery directly to the starter (positive cable to the single post on the starter and the negative cable to a clean metal connection on the engine block.) Got the same result as with the original starter- the engine wouldn't turn over.

So to make sure that I didn't have a hydro-lock situation I pulled out the spark plugs and redid my jumper cable test. The starter spins okay and it easily turns the engine over. I put the plugs back in and jumped the starter. The starter tries to turn the engine over once but it seems that it just can't overcome the compression.

I hate to think that I got a bad second starter but I'm not sure what to try next. Any one have any ideas? Thanks for your help in advance.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Is the replacement an OEM starter or one of the many cheap rebuilds?

Even used OEM starters are better than a new cheap rebuilt. For some reason our skis need GREAT starters.

 

[als2012]

New OEM starter.

 

[Coastiejoe]

If your connections are excellent and your battery is great. Then you got a second bad starter I would think.

Is the ground cable at the starter or did you relocate it?

 

[BMANN06]

I would take the Positive cable that goes to the starter and sand both side of the copper eyelit. Pull the starter and sand the starter casing on both sides were the two fasterners bolt the starter to the engine block, also sand up the mating surface on the engine block. While the starter is out make sure that the positive post on the starter is clean, maybe sand the top of the nut that the eylite mates with. It sounds to me like you have oxidation on the copper lead to the starter. It doesn't take much to current to spin the motor with the plugs out, but with them in thats a different story any oxidation on any of the leads will resitrict current (oxidation acts like a resistor). Might as well do the positve battery lead as well. Also make sure there is no oxidation builiding up on the 2 10mm bolts at the starter relay. Clean these leads up with sandpaper too, then hit them with some dielectric grease then get some patience and get the red caps back on the starter relay 10mm fasteners.