2002 GTX DI Fuel pumps

[dpcarey98]

Thank you for the forum. I have been reading for days and learned alot but have a question. I have owned this since new. It would not keep running this year, runs fine on the hose but as soon as it is in the water it bogs down and dies. New battery, plugs, and fuel.

I took it to the dealership they say it is the fuel pump and they want $1000.00 to replace it which seems appropriate for what I have seen on here, but is there any other options? Has any swapped this them selves with the $149.00 ones that can be found on the internet? I am mechanicaly inclined and could do it but is it worth doing yourself?

Has just at 90 hours on it.

Thank you for your time

Dave

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

wow. Stealership pricing!

I have not, I stick to the carb skis, but I've seen the links to ones on eBay for about that price, aftermarket. I don't think it could be that hard. your fuel pump is accessible by removing the glove box lid, then the glove box on your ski, should be 4 small plastic screws. for $150 what do you have to lose?

 

[dpcarey98]

Well LOL $150.00. And then spend the money at the dealership, the pump at the DS is $777.00 plus $10.00 for the gasket.

I guess my question should be is the $150.00 fuel pump any good? Has any one else tried it? I do not know if I want to be the test subject.

Dave

 

[Spimothy Leary]

hmmm. I have a 951 DI parts ski, and I believe the pump can be tested, i just haven't done anything with it yet, and i'm assuming some on fleabay can be and should be tested before sale, so yes, if they were tested they should be just fine.
of course there is always a risk, but $777 is insane, i'd be willing to take the gamble !

 

[dpcarey98]

Not a used pump brand new aftermarket on Ebay I would post a link but unsure about the rules on links.

Dave

 

[Spimothy Leary]

i 'think' ebay links are ok, just not competing pwc forums like pwct and GH,
or ...

gasp....

links to FREE manuals

 

[dpcarey98]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Replace...pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

New Replacement Fuel Pump Direct Injection SeaDoo Sea Doo GTX DI / RX DI 00-03

 

[tflessner]

I put one of the $150 HighFlow pumps in my RX and it works great.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380448844382?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

I’ve probably got 8 hours running on the new pump and so far so good. It is much quieter than the stock pump, just a faint whine to it.

It’s not that hard to replace, just a pain getting the pump out of the tank. I should have taken pictures and documented the process. You need a fuel line disconnect tool, same one as used on automotive injection fuel lines. Make sure you have lots of paper towels and a small plastic tub to catch the gas which will spill out the lines and the pump module as you’re taking it out.

Take the old pump out, attach two wires, positive and negative. I added some extra wire as the pump won’t sit at the bottom with just the length of wire from the stock pump. Take the rubber and metal washer out of the bottom of the aluminum module, put some new filters on, attach the plastic hose to the top section of the module, and reinstall.

 

[dpcarey98]

Alright spending the $150.00 I will take pictures and post them.

As a bonus to me I stopped at the dealership and they were not ready for me to pick it up so it is already apart, I know not much but the front access cover is still off. The dealership also told me about a pump on Ebay that a customer is purchasing and suggested I check it out if I was going to do the work myself. I had told them I could not justify spending the $1000.00 on the Seadoo right now, not that I was going to do it myself.

 

[baddb1]

I put one of the $150 HighFlow pumps in my RX and it works great.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380448844382?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

I’ve probably got 8 hours running on the new pump and so far so good. It is much quieter than the stock pump, just a faint whine to it.

It’s not that hard to replace, just a pain getting the pump out of the tank. I should have taken pictures and documented the process. You need a fuel line disconnect tool, same one as used on automotive injection fuel lines. Make sure you have lots of paper towels and a small plastic tub to catch the gas which will spill out the lines and the pump module as you’re taking it out.

Take the old pump out, attach two wires, positive and negative. I added some extra wire as the pump won’t sit at the bottom with just the length of wire from the stock pump. Take the rubber and metal washer out of the bottom of the aluminum module, put some new filters on, attach the plastic hose to the top section of the module, and reinstall.

I have a '03 GTX-DI and the new pump from highflow and am ready to install it. A few questions... So do I drill out the rivets and remove the bottom aluminum plate? Is that still used again? It seems like the pump will move around too much otherwise.. Also, they gave me some crimp connectors, but I can't see on the pump which is positive or negative? This pump just has 2 small tabs to push the connectors on but I don't know which is positive or negative. Can you go into a little more detail on the install? Thanks for the help!!

 

[tflessner]

I have a '03 GTX-DI and the new pump from highflow and am ready to install it. A few questions... So do I drill out the rivets and remove the bottom aluminum plate? Is that still used again? It seems like the pump will move around too much otherwise.. Also, they gave me some crimp connectors, but I can't see on the pump which is positive or negative? This pump just has 2 small tabs to push the connectors on but I don't know which is positive or negative. Can you go into a little more detail on the install? Thanks for the help!!

The HighFlow pump has two crimp connectors, the larger "L" shaped connector was the positive, with the smaller one being the negative. I didn't take the bottom aluminum plate off, just took out the rubber/steel washer combo out, then put a new filter on the bottom. There will also be a filter to attach to the bottom of the actual pump (so two filters). The plastic tube will actually push the pump to the bottom of the aluminum module housing and keep it there. It may move around a bit when the ski bounces around, but I would think it should be okay. On my GTX I cut the round hole out bigger in the white plastic holder to fit around the new pump and that seemed to hold it in there more securely.

I should have taken pictures!

 

[baddb1]

The HighFlow pump has two crimp connectors, the larger "L" shaped connector was the positive, with the smaller one being the negative. I didn't take the bottom aluminum plate off, just took out the rubber/steel washer combo out, then put a new filter on the bottom. There will also be a filter to attach to the bottom of the actual pump (so two filters). The plastic tube will actually push the pump to the bottom of the aluminum module housing and keep it there. It may move around a bit when the ski bounces around, but I would think it should be okay. On my GTX I cut the round hole out bigger in the white plastic holder to fit around the new pump and that seemed to hold it in there more securely.

I should have taken pictures!

Thanks, the filter attached to the bottom of the pump is sort of offset so it seems like it wont fit too well in the aluminum module. Also, since your not connected to the bottom rubber/steel washer than you are not going thru the one-way valve that is there. I wonder if that matters? I noticed though that if I leave the rubber/steel washer on the bottom than the pump will actually push into the rubber with a snug fit. The downside is that I can't use the new filter that came with the pump, only the new filter on the very bottom can be used... Thoughts?
Thanks again!

 

[tflessner]

Thanks, the filter attached to the bottom of the pump is sort of offset so it seems like it wont fit too well in the aluminum module. Also, since your not connected to the bottom rubber/steel washer than you are not going thru the one-way valve that is there. I wonder if that matters? I noticed though that if I leave the rubber/steel washer on the bottom than the pump will actually push into the rubber with a snug fit. The downside is that I can't use the new filter that came with the pump, only the new filter on the very bottom can be used... Thoughts?
Thanks again!

The pump I got from HighFlow, the bottom intake hole was too small to fit snuggly into the bottom stock opening? So I took out the washers, put the filter on the bottom of the pump, so it wouldn’t suck up debris that gets in the bottom of the aluminum housing. I did have to bend the filter a bit to get it to slide down inside, but not enough to break any of the plastic frame inside the filter. So, then the gas freely flows through/past the other filter into were the pump sits on the bottom of the aluminum housing.

 

[baddb1]

The pump I got from HighFlow, the bottom intake hole was too small to fit snuggly into the bottom stock opening? So I took out the washers, put the filter on the bottom of the pump, so it wouldn’t suck up debris that gets in the bottom of the aluminum housing. I did have to bend the filter a bit to get it to slide down inside, but not enough to break any of the plastic frame inside the filter. So, then the gas freely flows through/past the other filter into were the pump sits on the bottom of the aluminum housing.

Ok, that all makes sense to me, thanks. Did you have to extend the wires though? They seem a tad too short. If so, how did you do it? I could solder an extension wire on I guess and put heatshrink around the solder joint. Not sure if heat shrink is fuel proof though...

 

[tflessner]

Ok, that all makes sense to me, thanks. Did you have to extend the wires though? They seem a tad too short. If so, how did you do it? I could solder an extension wire on I guess and put heatshrink around the solder joint. Not sure if heat shrink is fuel proof though...

I did extend each wire (approx. 3-4"). I just used some crimp splicers. I though about sodering and heat shrink, but went the easy quick route.

I just started my GTX tonight and it also runs good with the HighFlow pump. Next is a lake test.

 

[baddb1]

I did extend each wire (approx. 3-4"). I just used some crimp splicers. I though about sodering and heat shrink, but went the easy quick route.

I just started my GTX tonight and it also runs good with the HighFlow pump. Next is a lake test.

Ok, sounds good,thanks. I am going to tackle this tomorrow and will let you know how I make out.

 

[dpcarey98]

Hope you two report how they are working, mine will be here on Saturday it says, I have the old one out but have not taken it out of the canister yet. I took pictures will post a set of all when finished next week.

 

[dpcarey98]

baddb1 and tflessner Question for you was looking at the canister I uncliped the top section and pulled the float gauge wires, how does the pump come out? is it just a tight fit or do I need to remove any rivets etc to get it loose. I pulled up on it and it seems really tight so I did not want to force it.

 

[tflessner]

baddb1 and tflessner Question for you was looking at the canister I uncliped the top section and pulled the float gauge wires, how does the pump come out? is it just a tight fit or do I need to remove any rivets etc to get it loose. I pulled up on it and it seems really tight so I did not want to force it.

The stock pump pushes/clips into the round fitting (center hole) in the bottom of the aluminum housing. It will pull out with some force, just wiggle and pull at the same time to pull it out.

 

[dpcarey98]

Thanks, the filter attached to the bottom of the pump is sort of offset so it seems like it wont fit too well in the aluminum module. Also, since your not connected to the bottom rubber/steel washer than you are not going thru the one-way valve that is there. I wonder if that matters? I noticed though that if I leave the rubber/steel washer on the bottom than the pump will actually push into the rubber with a snug fit. The downside is that I can't use the new filter that came with the pump, only the new filter on the very bottom can be used... Thoughts?
Thanks again!

I got started on mine yesterday, I ended up drilling out the rivets to put it back together. The bottom will come out of the cylinder housing and then you can change the filter inside under the pump. The new pump will press into the rubber housing just like the OEM one.

again I am taking pictures and will post them all when done.

 

[DooWacka]

It is easier to work with if you remove the rivets holding the bottom on the module, and either replace with screws or rivets.

I understand HighFlow is now shipping a pump with a lower current draw which still delivers the 107psi required, which will make the system run better and probably be more robust with greater longevity.

HighFlow also has both the inner and outer module filters, so you can continue to use the module foot-valve (rubber/steel washers).
As already said, the pump inlet fits nicely into the OE rubber grommet inserted in the "inner" small filter.
This allows the fuel module pickup to be virtually on the bottom of the tank, and the aluminum reservoir to function as intended.

 

[baddb1]

It is easier to work with if you remove the rivets holding the bottom on the module, and either replace with screws or rivets.

I understand HighFlow is now shipping a pump with a lower current draw which still delivers the 107psi required, which will make the system run better and probably be more robust with greater longevity.

HighFlow also has both the inner and outer module filters, so you can continue to use the module foot-valve (rubber/steel washers).
As already said, the pump inlet fits nicely into the OE rubber grommet inserted in the "inner" small filter.
This allows the fuel module pickup to be virtually on the bottom of the tank, and the aluminum reservoir to function as intended.

Yes, exactly how I did mine. Much easier to remove the rivets and then I just replaced them with 2 sheet metal screws.
You also have to enlarge the nylon retaining ring that holds the pump from moving around in the aluminum housing. Since the original pump also had a spring that kept constant force down on the pump,, I added a strong and slightly flexible wire on mine that will help keep the new pump in place. WHat I did was add a hoseclamp around the new pump and holding the wire in place. Then on the top plastic piece, I added a smaller hoseclamp to the black plastic inlet,, right near the top. This will hopefully help keep the pump pushed down into the foot valve (rubber grommet) at the bottom.
I took some pics of it before installing it into the aluminum housing.
So far I have 5 hours on the Seadoo and the new pump is working like a charm. I even took it out in huge waves where the machine got a beating and she is still running great! :thumbsup:

Since I just received my pump last week, I am assuming it is the lower current draw model. I haven't measured the current yet though. I'll do that this week...

 

[DooWacka]

Yes, I believe the white plastic top on your pump indicates the lower amp pump.

Did you have to carefully calculate the length of your "flexible wire"?
It seems difficult to get that relatively stiff wire to hold the bottom of the module on the tank bottom without being difficult to "compress" the module into the tank. Also, I wonder if the wire bends much, does the pump "lean over" such that the attachment to the rubber grommet and foot-valve suffers. If there are none of these problems, it looks like a novel and easy way to replace the sliding seal and spring.

 

[baddb1]

Yes, I believe the white plastic top on your pump indicates the lower amp pump.

Did you have to carefully calculate the length of your "flexible wire"?
It seems difficult to get that relatively stiff wire to hold the bottom of the module on the tank bottom without being difficult to "compress" the module into the tank. Also, I wonder if the wire bends much, does the pump "lean over" such that the attachment to the rubber grommet and foot-valve suffers. If there are none of these problems, it looks like a novel and easy way to replace the sliding seal and spring.

Ok good to know that it is a lower amp pump!
The trick in sizing the wire is to attach the top plastic inlet piece onto the aluminum housing. Then cut the wire to size and tighten the upper hose clamp. I tried compressing it with the wire secured and the wire will flex enough and not push the pump sideways. I noticed that when these pump housings are inserted into the fuel tank, they only compress down maybe 1/4"...., so that shouldn't be a problem with my setup.

My solution works and I'm sure people will come up with different ones, but,I really think something is needed to hold the pump into that rubber grommet. If you look at the original fuel pump, the inlet has a flange that allows it to "snap" into that rubber grommet/washer for a snug fit. This newer pump has none. I realize though that the white hose in the kit does supply some down pressure to hold it in place, but I was worried it wasn't going to be enough.

 

[DooWacka]

What is the length of your white hose, and is that what HighFlow sent you with the pump?
Did you have to cut down the length of the black plastic module output tube?
Is the wire "springy", is it from a coat hanger, I would think a coat hanger type wire would bend and not be very springy?