2001 seedoo gtx di jerking

[Roachie33]

Hi,

My 2001 seedoo gtx DI starts jerking when accelerate past 30-35. It's sporadic and I can get it up to 55 MPH. I have taken it to the local dealership twice and they replaced the rectifier and reset the Tps. it ran a little better for one weekend but still not fixed.
Under 30 mph no jerking even when pulling a tube.

The maint light comes on at first start with no beat and does goes off
I called the dealership back and they told me to replace the plugs and charge the battery and I did both and it's still jerking.

Any thoughts would be appreciated

 

[nhmort]

This DI will react like that with either a bad rectifier or battery.

Make sure that the battery is an AGM and that you disconnect it when not in use.

Most likely your rectifier is good IF they replaced it with an OEM 4 etc version.

 

[Roachie33]

Is there anything else that would cause this to happen as the rectifier is new and I have 2 fully charged AGM batteries?

Thanks

 

[bdesim2]

Is there anything else that would cause this to happen as the rectifier is new and I have 2 fully charged AGM batteries?

Thanks

Could be fuel pressure loss. Can test with fuel pressure gauge but low fuel pressure won't trip the maintenance light. Sounds like battery or rectifier to me. Have you had the cause of the maint light pulled? What code?

 

[jhjesse]

I would test the rectifier. They can be bad straight out of the box. I recommend only OEM. 4tec rectifiers are designed for 4tec skis. I don't recommend using them on di skis only the ones designed for them.

Start ski on the trailer with a volt meter attached to the battery. Rev to 3500/4000rpms and read the volt meter. If it is reading 13.5 to 14.5vdc you are good. Anything below 13 or above 15 and the rectifier is bad.

Take the battery to the auto parts store and have them load test it to make sure it is good. Have seen bad ones straight out of the box.

Install a fuel pressure gauge and check fuel pressure. Should read 107psi. It is probably good but wouldn't hurt to check. Maintenance light going in and out leads me to believe it is electrical.

 

[Roachie33]

thanks for the advise. Is will run those test and then repost.

 

[Roachie33]

I tested the rectifier today and when it's not started 12.8v and started 13.7v at 3500-4000 rpms. I tested it 3 times with similar results. So next I will load test battery.

 

[Roachie33]

Batteries are good.
So where do I get a pressure gauge that reads over 100psi and how do I test? This is all new to me but I am pretty handy. I have been trying to research but there's not a lot of info. From what I read the tester goes in between the fuel filter and the DI. Is there an inexpensive kit or or can I get get a gauge some gas lines and some fittings?

How about this one I found on Amazon?

BETOOLL HW0138 0-140PSI Fuel Injector Injection Pump Pressure Tester Gauge Kit Car Tools.

 

[bdesim2]

I purchased a used set of fuel lines with the high pressure connectors on them. Then I purchased a gauge that goes to 200 psi and made myself a pressure test kit that I can put inline without splicing or cutting any of the stock configuration. Do a search on this site there is a documented thread of this and it is what I used as a reference to make my setup.

 

[Roachie33]

Thanks. I found the set up and just started ordering the parts. If I get 107 psi should I take it out for a ride and see if the pressure holds when jerking?
Should I replace the inline fuel filter? I read a lot of post that indicated the WIX 3095 is a good replacement and a good value? Just curious if this would be a good preventive measure.

 

[bdesim2]

You should probably change it. It's probably never been changed. I use the wix 3095 with great success and I change them at the beginning of every season. If it shows 107 while idling then yes take it for a spin. Use good quality clamps if you are making a gauge. We don't want any accidents.

 

[Roachie33]

Great thanks

 

[Roachie33]

Ok so i finally performed the pressure test and it maintained 107 psi. I got it up over 6000 rpms and was all good. So pressure is good, battery is good, spark plugs are new, regulator is new and OME and it test good.
Still jerking.

 

[bdesim2]

When it jerks does it increase rpm? Or decrease?

 

[Roachie33]

It decreases

 

[mikidymac]

Have you tried cleaning the RAVE valves yet?

 

[bdesim2]

You have no maintenance lights on the dash correct?

 

[Roachie33]

That is correct

 

[Roachie33]

I cleaned them last year at the end of season.

 

[bdesim2]

As mikidiymac said I was going to suggest cleaning the raves. Check the water regulator too. Make sure it's ok. Also check each hose in the air system. I have seen the small air lines crack and cause weird behavior.

 

[Roachie33]

When I cleaned the rave valves is also change the housing because the nipple the house was connect to was broke.

 

[bdesim2]

When you shut the machine down from the stop button do you hear he raves cycles twice ?

 

[Roachie33]

Not sure what that would should like. Does this sound like a rave valve issue?

 

[bdesim2]

Could be that they aren't opening all the way. Either an air pressure issue or the rave solenoid failed. When you hear them cycle they will click and you will hear pressurized air cycling through. If they aren't cycling it's an indication that the rave solenoid has failed

 

[Roachie33]

BINGO.... So I took the air nipple off the rave housing I replaced last year and fixed the original housing. There was a crack in hose that I cut off as well. Put it back together and no jerking up to 7000'rpms. THANK YOU