2001 SeaDoo XP LTD VTS troubleshooting

[AirJordan613]

The VTS on my XP is not working. I pulled the plastic motor housing off and I can hear what sounds like a solenoid click when I press either up or down, however the motor does not move and the nozzle is stuck in the full up position. What do you guys think? Dead motor? It worked fine last season.

 

[Mekanix]

Pull the cover off the motor housing and see whats inside. It could be corroded and that caused the motor to fail and in that case you could rebuild or replace the motor.
OR It could have seized and fried one of the relay's and in that case you need to replace it or build something to replace it.

You can remove the motor and rotate the shaft to get the nozzle where you want it and then reinstall the motor. That would at least put it in a useful position.

 

[AirJordan613]

Well hopefully it's just the motor. It looks like it's held on by three bolts. Is it that simple to remove? And how about finding a replacement?

 

[Mekanix]

I'm sure it can be found on ebay or one of the members on here. I've bought parts from "Minnetonka4me" just to name one.

I believe once you take the 3 bolts out the motor comes right out and there are two wires with disconnects. Once you have it out you can turn the shaft by hand and the nozzle will move. If you want to replace just the motor you should test the power first.

When you hit the up and down buttons you should hear a click and you should get 12v across those two wires that go to the motor. If you get voltage it will be positive if you go in one direction and negative if you press the other direction.

I would make a small test light with an 1156 light bulb. Those take about 23 watts of power to light up. So if it lights that up both ways, the relays inside the box would seem to be ok and it should have enough power to drive a motor. You should be able to rebuild or replace the motor and be ok.

The only problem is if you get no voltage one way or the other but you hear the clicks. In that case one of the relays inside the box is toasted and the whole thing has to be replaced or you could use a "trim fix" box.


One note to mention. Your going to have to take the motor out and turn the shaft by hand until its about neutral position on the nozzle.

The motors have a safety feature that kicks in if you hold the button down and the nozzle goes all the way.. It will cut the power off in one direction but not for going back the other way.

So you need to be in neutral to get voltage up and down.

 

[AirJordan613]

Sounds like fun.. So either ill be replacing the motor, the vts module box, or both? I've got the clicking both directions now so hopefully that's a good sign. I'll probably hook the motor leads to a 12v battery to see if that's functional then proceed to the vts module


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Mekanix]

yup but don't keep it there too long if nothing happens, The motor can be saved usually and its better not to cook it if you can get away with cleaning it

But yeah either the motor or the whole unit. Clicking in both directions is a good sign though. Have you replaced the vts boot recently ? They do fail and dry rot. Thats what lets the water in and corrodes it.

I saved my motor and housing but the relays were already fried. Now its connected direct with a potentiometer driving the gauge. I used a small micro controler called an Arduino to control the max and min so I don't overdrive it .


There are creative ways to get around it

Good luck

 

[AirJordan613]

This seadoo sat in the water for two summers on Lake Erie. I cleaned the bottom every week but the boot is probably rotted out then.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[rckstr]

I am having the same problem. What are some ways to go around replacing the module? What about fixing the trim in the neutral position?

 

[Coastiejoe]

Pull the motor and test it right from a battery. The fact that you hear clicking is a good sigh as it is TRYING to work but can't. I'm thinking your motor is seized.

Do a search and you will find that certain automotive window motors are the same.

There really is no easy work around if it is the module. They go bad often and they are not too cheap.

 

[Mekanix]

I am having the same problem. What are some ways to go around replacing the module? What about fixing the trim in the neutral position?

You can do that and in fact that is what people most often do when they break. Or just attach a cable to it

There is a product called trim fix that replaces the internal electronics and just drives the motor, Besides that I know you can make the circuit from scratch but it will fail eventually anyways. I think there is an updated schematic that uses hall switches instead of the reed switches that fixes that problem along with resettable circuit breakers to protect the relay's.

 

[AirJordan613]

I'm getting no voltage through the vts module. I just tried with a multimeter to the two leads while pressing vts buttons. Clicking but no voltage. Does that mean the vts module is fried? My motor also isn't working on a 12v battery. The contacts will spark but to movement. Also water came out of the motor upon opening.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Mekanix]

That means one of the relays has fried. The motor seizing is what caused it. And yes the whole module is fried.

 

[Coastiejoe]

I'm getting no voltage through the vts module. I just tried with a multimeter to the two leads while pressing vts buttons. Clicking but no voltage. Does that mean the vts module is fried? My motor also isn't working on a 12v battery. The contacts will spark but to movement. Also water came out of the motor upon opening.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you are getting voltage to but not through the module them the module is damaged.

 

[AirJordan613]

Scratch that. Vts fuse was blown. Put in a 5 amp since it was all I had. Then tested vts box and it had power. So looks like I just need a new motor an I'll be good to go


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Coastiejoe]

Motors are a common failure. They key to saving the module is keeping a working motor and keeping the module dry,,,

 

[AirJordan613]

I wouldn't be surprised if my box is wet considering it stayed floating for 4 months at a time and the motor was wet. I'm going to replace the motor and boot. Is there a good way to dry the box?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Mekanix]

Good news. Lucky it blew the fuse. You could take the box out or just take he cover off and let it dry.

 

[AirJordan613]

I'm going to do everything I can to avoid pulling the box. I don't have a 36mm socket and it doesn't look fun. I've got the cover off and I'll probably leave the boot off for a while before I put the new one on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Coastiejoe]

Put a fan in there and let it circulate the air. That will dry it out. Moving air does a very good job.

 

[AirJordan613]

That sounds good. It's a late model xp so it has the removable rear hatch directly above the vts; should have good ventilation there. I've had good luck from the crank-n-charge ebay store with my rxt starter solenoid replacement, so I ordered an aftermarket vts motor from them, and I ordered a new boot from osdparts.com


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[AirJordan613]

Source of problem discovered


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Mekanix]

AHAA! :thumbsup: $16 an cheap insurance ! Make it part of yearly maintenance

Did you take the motor apart yet ?

 

[AirJordan613]

The motor is all seized together. New motor will arrow tomorrow. Now the new boot has a smaller diameter fitting. Any tips on getting it to fit. I removed the vts shaft from the box but I'm still having a hard time with it



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[AirJordan613]

And is there some way I'll have to calibrate the shaft since it probably has been spun some?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Mekanix]

Nope put it roughly in the middle and then install the motor. The gauge will show where it is and the motor won't move until you hit the button. Hold the up or down button and the motor should stop automatically when the rod goes to its max extension. If it doesn't stop It can strip the shaft.