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2001 seadoo gtx rfi hesitation at low rpms

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wapsharethis

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my 2001 gtx rfi is giving me some issues at low rpms....
it is not every single time but most of the time from a standstill if i open up the throttle all the way the motor is like hesitating and wont pass a certain rpm but then if i feather it back and forth with take off normal and allow me to plane out to top speed. Its not a bog like it is about to cut out it is more like a sputter i guess is the best way to describe but once it passes that it runs at full speed just like normal. Ski doesnt have carbs so it cant be that. Just changed plugs and yes they are the resistor type so im not really sure where to go from here. please help with any input. i thought about adding some seafoam and running a tank to maybe clean out the injectors but i get mixed reviews on using fuel additives. Could it be a faulty fuel injector?? if so how could i tell which is bad.. those things cost a premium.... any input would be greatly appreciated thanks a million

fyi it fires right up and will idle all day long and when i get it to top out it will ride at full speed as long as i have the throttle pulled just gives me trouble when i let back off and apply full throttle again..untill i feather it back up.
 
Maybe water in the tank? Old fuel? Dirty injectors could be it too. I run seafoam a lot in my skis to keep all of the parts clean an happy. My 1991 XP runs like a champ.btw this should be in four stroke ski forum
 
[MENTION=62821]SeadooMan8[/MENTION]. No this is a 2 stroke ski as jammin stated. Wapsharethis is in the right place here
 
Test your fuel pressure. How long has it been since they were serviced? If it has been a few years then that is where I would start.

To test the fuel pressure you need to take the supply line off the injection rail and T in a pressure gauge. It should be about 56 psi, you can first test it while on the trailer if it is less then 55 psi then you have a fuel pressure problem. If fuel pressure is 55 or better it still does not mean that the fuel pressure is good under load, but it will give you an idea. Keep the pressure gauge on there and test in the water and see if it drops further under load. If there is a pressure drop then replace the pump and strainers.

The fuel pump and screens can be bought at advance auto for a reasonable price.

Pump
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...365&isAllVehicle=false&vehicleIdFromReq=23365

Strainers
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...ehicleIdSearch=-1&searchTerm=fs242&showTitle=
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...ehicleIdSearch=-1&searchTerm=fs220&showTitle=
 
sounds like a combo of maybe 2 issues, take the boots off of your sparkplug cables at the spark plug end, take a rzor knife and lay wires on like a block of wood and trim off approx 1 inch and then spray with silicon sparay, and screw it back on, then secure it with tie wraps
b) get your minimum tps set with a programmer into your mpem, seems like a dead spot, or -- did you adjust the idle speed and not set minimum tps after you were done ???
 
Thanks for all of your input guys, someone had also mentioned the rave valves could be sticking.. do you think that would be a area to inspect too. If so are they super difficult to work on? Thanks again for all of your input. Ill be working on the ski this weekend so hopefully i can get her runnin right.. weather here is starting to get nice
 
To me, your problem doesn't sound like a Rave issue, but they should be cleaned once a year regardless.
Its not a diffucult job, get a can of carb cleaner and a wire wheel or brush, get new O rings and gaskets then pull them off, take your time and lay the parts out neatly on the workbench.
On the parts site there will be a picture of how to reassemble.

Almost forgot, the only real trick is the black cap with the red dot is spring load, so make sure your holding the cap when you slide the wire over to remove the cap.
Sent using Tapatalk
 
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Hey guys drained tank added fresh gas, checked pressure, changed plugs, clipped boots, added seafoam, and inspected the raves still runs like a soup sandwich at low rpms.. im really leaning to this tps sensor but have no clue about changing it. Is this something that i could buy used on ebay and just unplug the old one a plug in the new one and be done. Grizz u mentioned programming it. Is this something i should not attempt in my garage or should i bring it to a shop. If i do bring it to a shop can yall give me a estimate on what i probably should or shouldnt pay for materials and labor. Seems like it could be changed in no time.. thanks
 
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you have to test with a scan tool, and set minimum tps sensor voltage into the mpem, so that the mpem knows your throttle position, this way it looks at engine temp and engine load through the coolant sensor and apps sensors, calculates injector pulse width, and looks at engine rpms through the crank sensor firing coil and injectors according all these sensors...
if you have a spare rectifier, plug it in a take it out on the water, you know the rfi's eat em, every ski has their quark , rectifiers is the rfi's
 
Looks like i better run her by a shop to see whats up. Ill drop her off and let u know what their findings are. I was hoping for a simple fix but it is what it is and the sooner i take it in the sooner i get it back. If they do replace the tps sensor and program it , in ur experience what do u think would be fair for them to charge me though.. your input is greatly appreciated i just dont want to get hornswaggled
 
i would check with nick here at seadooforums , his id is Minnetonka4me he probably has a whole t/body assembly, he sells us all all kinds of used parts, we all buy alot from him, just send him a pm and he will get back to you

but, see the 2 stroke fuel injection system in your ski, has what we call a wet exhaust, like all seadoos, and therefore no o2 sensors, so its what i call real time fuel injection, works real nice and seldom has problems, you will get it straight, and ... i would check all connections at all sensors and use dielectric grease on them all, even the injector connectors -- i changed my injector connectors, soldered in 2 new pigtails from dodge truck wiring harness (same connector) -- they were green looking .. the metal .. ever since, dielectric grease on everything, even my battery -- salt water never sleeps ...
 
wapsharethis said:
Looks like i better run her by a shop to see whats up. Ill drop her off and let u know what their findings are. I was hoping for a simple fix but it is what it is and the sooner i take it in the sooner i get it back. If they do replace the tps sensor and program it , in ur experience what do u think would be fair for them to charge me though.. your input is greatly appreciated i just dont want to get hornswaggled
Click to expand...

tps you can change out yourself, programming it all no more than 1 hr labor, if you lived in tampa, my buddy would do it for like 30.00 or so, he has an independent jetski/mc shop
 
Do you still have your 02 RFI? if so, swap out the rectifiers and see if that helps. I would do that before spending a nickle at the dealer. Unless you have a buddy like Griz that can hook you up cheap.
 
Well took to mech only to pay two hundred bucks for them to tell me rectifier was bad and they couldnt test for anything further till voltages were in line. They wanted another two hundred for the rectifier..omg. I just bought one off of ebay. Ill swap it myself n pray it works. Could that have caused all this. Damn if so is there a decent inexpendise aftermarket alternative cause those things are expensive
 
Lol yep to bad i had already dropped it off when he first mentioned it. We live and learn i guess. Wish me luck ima see tomorrow if that works
 
Well took it out a second time and it appears the oem used rectifier i purchased on ebay has failed. Ski back to doing the exact same thing. What would cause this thing too blow two rectifiers back to back. Is it worth it buying the 4tec one from osd parts or what. Im totally confused.
 
it would seem that the 4 tec rectifier from osd would be the best option as it is a heavier duty one. there's a good chance that the used oem one from ebay was bad in the first place.?? i would never buy a used one unless it was from a well known person with integrity such as tonka.
 
What else could be wrong. The bulletproof osd rectifier on third trip out failed. Lasted longer than the others but nevertheless failed. Where would u turn next
 
maybe something causing rectifier failure? someone will chime in. something i would like to know in case i face the same issue.
 
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