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2000 seadoo rx electrical issue pleaseee help!

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Gentryo3

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Hi all! I have a seadoo rx that has absolutely nothing electrical working! I've read through every thread and every forum I could find and still no idea what's my problem with my ski. I have found just a few people that have had the same issue but no one has identify the problem or problems. I joined this forum seeing that you are all very knowledgeable and smart, so hopefully we'll figure this out. Ok so I bought this ski used from a guy in 2002 when I was a senior in hs. He ran it with a hose in his driveway because he said he didn't have time to bring it to the river to let me test it because of work. It ran great on the hose and I was young and trusted everyone. So after I bought it I was able to ride it. It was horrible in the water. It wouldn't hardly run. It would just bog down and die. I called the guy a few times over a few days after trying the ski multiple times and could not get an answer or a call back. So I went to his house and tried to talk to him. He told me there was nothing wrong with the ski when he sold it to me. So I asked for me money back and he said no of course because I must have done something to it. So I was now broke and had a broken ski. Well after saving money over the summer I brought it to a little shop that worked on PWC and boats. They raped me every time I bought it to them and still never got the thing running right (they are no longer in business). So I let the ski sit for years because I didn't have the money or knowledge to do anything with it. So back in 2012 I found a guy that worked on them as a side job. So I had him work on it and he got it running pretty good. Well after a year it was acting up and I'd bring it back and he'd work on it and the last time I picked it up in 2014 I took it out and it stopped running because of all the hoses fell apart. So an idiot I am I figured I'd change the hosed myself. Well after just looking at it I start thinking I'll just start removing things to gain better access and knowledge. Well very long story short I find myself looking at the crank. Well from then to now I managed to get it all back together and rebuilt top end and carbs etc. and installed everything except to drive shaft and prop/jet pump. So with brand new smartcharged sealed battery, I hook up lanyard and get nothing. I press start and nothing happens. I checked all fuses and connections all looked good. Get on google and begin hrs and months of searching, reading, and troubleshooting. After trying everything and everything testing good as to volts and ohms except my info gauge which was full of water. I can jump the solenoid and the engine will turn. No fuses pop or anything. But I get no beeps with the lanyard, no noises when I push start stop. I get nothing all though there seems to be power going to most of the connections. I have tried pretty much everything that others have tried with similar electrical problems but have not seen any with the same exact problem I'm having ever showing a solution. Well sorry for the book I just wrote but thank you if you read it and if anyone could help I'd gladly appreciate it!!
 
Ok, the fact that you jump the solenoid and it DOES crank, it means that you have a good battery, cables, cable connections, and starter.

The Beeper may be bad, so not hearing anything is not a big deal. Use your meter and see if you get 12v at the small terminal of the solenoid when you press the start button (with the Lanyard in place). Yes or no?

If no, then see if you have power at the start button on one side with the lanyard on. If so, press the button and test the output side.

Lets get this far and then I may be able to help you more.
 
Thanks so much for the replies! Ok all fuses appear good but I'll replace when I can get new ones. Checked solenoid has 12v on battery side nothing on other side when I push start. Unplugged start switch and have 12v on yel/red and 12v on black wire. Does that sound right? Are both wires supposed to be hot?
 
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Typically, the start/stop switch completes a path to ground until you press it, whereby it opens the circuit, so I'm thinking if you unplugged the switch you should see 12v on the y/R wire and 0v on the black. But I'm not familiar with the newer skis so I may not be correct.
 
I downloaded the manual for your ski so I could see the wiring diagram. Is your ski a RX or RX DI? Anyway it says the start/stop switch is a normally open switch so if you unplug the switch and connect an ohm meter across the wires that go TO THE SWITCH (not toward the MPEM) you should read open when the switch is not pressed and 0 or close to 0 ohms when you press the switch. If this is how it acts, then the switch is okay
Disregard what I said in previous post as that is not correct
 
If the switch is okay then reconnect it and put the DESS on. Does anything happen? Any lights come on in any of the guages, any beeps? If any lights come on but no beeps, connect 12 v to the beeper and see if it makes any noise. If not, beeper is bad. (And they do seem to go bad quite frequently) If nothing happens whenever you put the DESS on then either the DESS Key or post is bad or the MPEM may have gone bad. Try cleaning the contacts on the DESS post and key with a pencil eraser and see if that changes anything.
 
It's an rx. Ok I disconnected the connector at the mpem and got OL without pushing the button and when I pushed the button there was a bunch of resistance but it slowly made its way down to 0. Plugged back in and connected the dess and there's nothing. No beeps and I don't know if the Speedo gauge works but I didn't see any change in it. I can't see anything on the info gauge but I think it's shot because it was full of water. I checked the beeper by giving it directly 12v from the battery and it beeps. Still getting nothing after cleaning the post and key.
 
Okay. If the MPEM was not reading the DESS key, I think you'd still get one beep out of the beeper. Did you have any of the wiring connectors apart that may possibly be connected wrong. Another thing to try- disconnect each of the connectors on the MPEM, inspect for corrosion/bent pins. Sometimes simply unplugging and reconnecting will solve a connection issue. Another issue is grounds. Make sure you check ALL of the grounding points and that they are clean and tight. Did you happen to attempt to jump-start the ski from a running vehicle at any point? That has been known to fry rectifiers and MPEMs
 
I really appreciate your help! I checked all of the connections they all appear good with no corrosion. I removed the mpem and it also has no corrosion on any pins. I removed the ebox and the ignition coils have some rust on them, like where the grounds are connected. I did take mag apart when the engine was out. Should I pull engine and remove mag cover and test something with it? All plugs appear right and don't see any corrosion anywhere. The only battery neg goes to the engine starter bolted to the block
 
Do you have a copy of the wiring diagram from the service manual?

There has to be another grounding connection(s) somewhere. Looks to me like most everything grounds through the MPEM, but that means the MPEM has to have a grounding point that would somehow make it's way back to the Neg post on the battery. From what I can see it looks like connector 3, pin 24 and connector 2 pin 2 are grounding points on the MPEM.

Disconnect the pos+ battery cable (leave the neg- cable connected) then check for continuity from each of those pins back to the neg battery post. If you do not have 0 ohms, or close to it, then I am betting that is the problem.

BTW, reason I suggest disconnecting the + cable is so you don't fry anything
 
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You did remember to secure the grounding wire to the magneto cover, correct? There should be 2 circle pieces on the magneto cover and a large ground under the engine as well.
 
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