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2000 seadoo gtx, help narrowing fuel system issue

LVDjetskis

New Member
Hey folks, I've got an older 2000 SeaDoo GTX that I'm trying to finish nursing back to health. It had been running well, but the other day I went over a wake at about half throttle, to the point where the ski came out of the water just a bit. When I landed, which was not a particularly jarring affair, the ski cut off, and hasn't restarted since. After confirming the engine has good spark, we started diagnosing the fuel system today, and bracketed the problem around two indicators: 1/If I empty the fuel filter and crank the engine, it does not refill, and 2/If I spray starter fluid into the air intake the engine kicks over almost immediately. While I'm good with engines generally, I'm still pretty new to jetskis...hoping someone might help me zone in the problem before I start pulling out the fuel tank (which seems incredibly awkward to get to). My gut tells me that the fuel pump or the fuel pump relay might be likely culprits, but I'd gladly take any tips or tricks on other tests I might try before I really tear into things.

Thanks in advance.
 
Hey folks, I've got an older 2000 SeaDoo GTX that I'm trying to finish nursing back to health. It had been running well, but the other day I went over a wake at about half throttle, to the point where the ski came out of the water just a bit. When I landed, which was not a particularly jarring affair, the ski cut off, and hasn't restarted since. After confirming the engine has good spark, we started diagnosing the fuel system today, and bracketed the problem around two indicators: 1/If I empty the fuel filter and crank the engine, it does not refill, and 2/If I spray starter fluid into the air intake the engine kicks over almost immediately. While I'm good with engines generally, I'm still pretty new to jetskis...hoping someone might help me zone in the problem before I start pulling out the fuel tank (which seems incredibly awkward to get to). My gut tells me that the fuel pump or the fuel pump relay might be likely culprits, but I'd gladly take any tips or tricks on other tests I might try before I really tear into things.

Thanks in advance.
 
Hey folks, thanks for the tip above, after little further investigation, I think we've found a solid clue.
When standing on the starboard side of the jetski, there's a 90 degree fitting that comes out of the side of the front carb. Circled green in the attached photo. The other end of that line was disconnected (end of the line had split) down towards the bottom of the engine somewhere. The parts diagram is ambiguous in terms of where this should connect and just says "to engine". Where does this line properly attach to? Is this the "pulse line" that I see references to?

Much appreciated.IMG_0832.jpeg
 
Those clear lines are usually junk, I can see an air bubble in the line, get yourself some good black automotive 1/4” ID hose. I’ve used the continental off Amazon, it’s a little cheaper than buying by the foot and has all the ratings. Don’t buy cheap black line from China either off Amazon.
 
Look at the parts exploded views on line. They should help you try to figure out how to get stuff apart.
 
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Ok, lots to unpack here....
First those carbs are nasty and need a full rebuild using only Genuine Mikuni parts.
2. That green hose is junk and should not be used.
3. In green that is the pulse line for the fuel pump.
4. In blue you have no hose-clamps.
5. In red, what is that connection or connected to? That is the fuel return line that should go directly to the fuel tank RETurn fitting.

951.jpeg

Avoid removing the pipe at all costs.
 
OK, I've got the airbox disconnected and mostly out of the way, and I can get my fingers on the proper crankcase fitting. However, getting the line onto the fitting seems to be mission impossible. There's a bracket (that I can't quite see) that prevents the hose from coming at the fitting straight on, and when I try to apply a push on the hose from the front side of the engine it tends to buckle or slip out of place vs. riding up on the fitting. From the back side of the engine I only have enough finger space to guide the hose, not tug it onto the fitting. While I've worked in some tight places on cars before, this seems like it is taking it to another level. Is there a crafty trick that I'm just not aware of??
 
OK, I've got the airbox disconnected and mostly out of the way, and I can get my fingers on the proper crankcase fitting. However, getting the line onto the fitting seems to be mission impossible. There's a bracket (that I can't quite see) that prevents the hose from coming at the fitting straight on, and when I try to apply a push on the hose from the front side of the engine it tends to buckle or slip out of place vs. riding up on the fitting. From the back side of the engine I only have enough finger space to guide the hose, not tug it onto the fitting. While I've worked in some tight places on cars before, this seems like it is taking it to another level. Is there a crafty trick that I'm just not aware of??
Needle nose pliers, start the hose on an angle
 
Hey folks, good news, I'm back in business! In the end, rather than trying to use a pair of needle nose pliers (honestly, I don't know if I could have wiggled those under there on this model ski) I ended up clamping a piece of paracord to the line just far enough down so that I had enough room to slip the end onto the fitting, while giving me something to pull forward on out in the cavity of the ski where I had more space, vs. underneath. It took a try or two, but it worked great, and then I just loosened the clamp and pulled the cord out. Perhaps that trick might be useful to someone else in the future. I did stick with the green tube mainly because the fuel grade line was just too big and inflexible to get into that location. Hopefully as a vacuum line it'll hold up, but for now I'm just going to keep my eye on it. Thanks again for all the help!
 
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