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2000 rx melenium edition HELP PLS.

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caliburn

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wanting to know a few things befor I buy. its in good shape, I think it has a aftermarket intake grate, supossed to had been a top end rebuild on it the first of the year, had the kid do a compression test with a cheap gauge it read 133 and 133, is this low for just having a new top end? the jet pump was rebuilt and new bearings and bushings, how much is this wourth in really good shape, but please let me know if this compression is right, the ski has 200 hours on it???? thank you all for you help.
 
oh and the kid said him and his gal was on it a few days ago and it did 66mph, now how is that possible?
 
sounds good on paper, compression is fine.

200 hours my main concern would be crank, everything else seems to have been serviced per your description.

worth in very good shape in the "united states" which is a very broad area to cover.

2K to 2800.
 
I have a good tester and I will recheck it tomarrow, I just thought his reading was kinda low since it just was rebuilt and thought he was full of sh#@ about doing 66 with him and his gal on it, I have a GP1200R that I cant even do 64mph on alone.
 
I have a good tester and I will recheck it tomarrow, I just thought his reading was kinda low since it just was rebuilt and thought he was full of sh#@ about doing 66 with him and his gal on it, I have a GP1200R that I cant even do 64mph on alone.

ya i logged back in to comment on the 66.. thats pretty dam fast for a stocker, i thought the rx "as is" is a 61mph ski. but its capable of 70+ with mods. but in reality, gps speeds i think are 59-63 max speed for a stock rx. sustained speeds probably 58. i don't care what the dream o meter says.

no the 133 readings aren't low for a 951 you can make them higher, but for now 133 is a good thing

although I discount a 66 mph statement, the ski is very capable of 66 with some improvements.
 
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thats what I thought, I know the kid traded his boat for it so he does not know alot about it other then what I have said, the intake grate on the bottom is a 2 vain, dont know if this is stock or what else to look for for mods but I will put it to the test when he brings it up against my unmoded GP1200R and see, I dont have a gps unfortunatly, is there a way to check to see if the top end was rebuilt???
 
Ok I took it out it ran good found out he had no gas in it lucky for me I made it back after playing for awhile ,rpm only got up to 6740, did the compression test befor running it it was 125 and 126, I went ahead and bought it for $2800 but really no way of telling if the top end was rebuilt the first of the year as he stated, and the speedo did read 66 mph but thats not right I could tell ,my 1200R would be faster on the water but not by much.
 
sounds good , a little on the high end of the price line but if it holds up and runs well, you'll get your money's worth.

if you get bored on ebay and want to blow $60 you can get a basic garmin etrex shipped to your door to test max speed, but feel pretty comfortable that your in the high 50-low 60 range. tell us more how the ride was, i have the exact same model that's waiting on an engine rebuild so i'm curious how you felt about the hole shot, mid-range power, how well did it handle the turns, did you ride on flat water or in chop, etc, i have very limited experience on the rx.
 
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She ran fast on glass, did not have her out that long will take her back out to answer those questions, can tell you that the trim system is nice, I can really tell that it does something rather then on my 1200r but with no fuel this may change I always run full tanks of gas, love the reverse for when trailering it I have control of it rather then on my 1200R that likes to beat up the trailer, I will fill you in on a good ride, the bottom is alittle wore but not to bad its contained to the keel and first steps and will be an easy fix to make breand new, I will Spray some black Duriflint 2 on it, Oh and a nice feature is it has a MP3 system with 2 new marine speakers, just hook the Ipod up to it and jam out, and it was not all hacked up they did a real nice job, I have not seen many with this feature on it so take that into account to for the price, it has a brand new Carbon fiber seat cover as well, the down side is there is DMG. to the hood its cracked up around the left rearveiw mirror and mirror itself I will have to look into plastic weld for this one of the few things I never did befor. when that engin rebuild of your what will be the compression like?
 
sounds like a pretty nice ski then, although I like to mock people with stereo's I will admit when i did a group ride a couple of months back with a guy that had one, it was nice to have jam's when we took a break half way thru the ride, so i've curtailed the mockery for now, since it actually was nice.

the compression will start in the 130's but i'd like to increase that a tad (thats the tuner's job not mine) stock carb, maybe proks, but no other mods will be planned engine wise yet. and i'll research impellers before I make a decision on that, the rx model is not my normal territory so I have some learning to do. I also plan on doing something creative with the engine paint itself, just haven't come up with a color scheme yet but it won't be normal basic silver or black, I like the engine to look different :) some red's, gold, etc.
 
there was a half tank of gas in it after all so the gas gauge is not working, took a good look in the jet pump does not look rebuilt to me after all did another compression test and they are lower again, I put a few ounces of oil in the gas to be safe, cleaned out all the grey matter out of the fuel filter, and cant find where the hose hooks up, put the hose in the jet pump and ran it a minute to get juice back in the battery, it ideled horrible up down all around and 4/5000 rpms dont know if it was the filter that I cleaned and put back, shut it off and the hi temp alarm went off, the motor was hot, that was quick to get that hot have not screwed with it since, waiting for it to cool down to do yet another compression test, hopefully the son of a bitch is not locked up, the compression was way below the 125 of yesterday like 117/ 118, where do I hook up the water there is no place inside the motor compartment to do so?
 
i think its time to stop and get it to somebody asap that know's about seadoo's... not sure where the water hookup is honestly, mine isn't running :)

quick lesson learned here: you should have learned how to flush this before you left the owner's driveway.
 
i think its time to stop and get it to somebody asap that know's about seadoo's... not sure where the water hookup is honestly, mine isn't running :)

quick lesson learned here: you should have learned how to flush this before you left the owner's driveway.

yes I know, on my 1200R its right there and if I run it without water for a minute it will not overheat, but you are right, I live out in the country there is no place to take it to around here, I do all the work myself, never rebuilt the motors befor, but have put a D-plate, block off plate on my 1200r to go mix, I by far do not know it all and dont know jack about seadoos but something is up when the compression keeps dropping, I know I need to replace the fuel lines as they are grey and they dicintergrate on the inside thats why all the grey goop in the filter, I will look at the threads to see if I can find out where the water hook up is. oh and thanks for your imput it is valued alot.
 
definately pull the plugs and hit the start button,, does water come out ?

oops edit,,, wrong thread, but i won't delete it, might be a good idea.
 
The water hose hooks at the rear by threading into the tube sticking out of the pump plate and next to the jet nozzle.
 
nice I seen that and did not want to befor finding out did not want to flood the motor. ok bought new fuel lines to replace those shitty grey oozing ones, ther is crap build up on the inside of them, and got new plugs, I want to take the carbs off and go through it as I am sure it needs it, never did one befor, compression check on good battery is now 127/128 so I am good there, she did not smoke hardly at all when running, after adding a few ounces to the gas and mixing it in the ski she smokes alittle now but plugs are still dry as a bone,I will start tomarrow on this any good threads on carbs oh and about the gas gauge not reding anything whats up with that, can I cross over the wires to the fuel sender to see if it will read on the gauge to see whats bad, or is there another way to do this?
 
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OK really took things apart, got the carbs off they look good and when opening the throttle it pissed real good, carb kit costs I dont think I need it, however took the stinger off to get a good look at things, the oil lines were painted over at some point and is flaking off there is a small oil leak on the bottom of the oil tank, the main lines look like shit the oil filter looks as if it is old as dirt, priced these things and I know the oil injection is saposed to be real good and all but I am having a hard time after seeing this, maybe if it was maintained am seriously thinking on just spending the $14 for a block off kit and call it good that way I know it will always get the right amount of oil, looked at the rear shaft the little clamp off the small boot I can turn not like the bigger one that is tight, next to it is the boot with the hose clamps on it and a rubber washer that sits flush but I can take and lift that boot and washer up and look inside it, is this right or is it worn out?
 
I have changed the fuel lines cleaned selector it fuctions right, added a filter to the main line to carbs, ordered new oil filter, exhaust gaskets and main carb gasket as one was really bad and obviously had a leak, putting new hose clamps on main oil line instead of zip ties that were loose, OK now I think the carbs have been gone through befor as they are super clean that I can see and reg. hose clamps are used on some of the small lines, Opened one side up to inspect the diaphram and it looks clean and new, I did not go any further, wanted to check filters but at the same time, dont have the money for rebuild kits for gaskets and such, Can I check the filters without a rebuild kit, and I really need to know since I could only get 6740 max rpms should I try to adjust them, keep in mind dont know jack about carbs, and I think it was running lean to begin with, also the fuel gauge part of the cluster does not read anything how to trouble shoot this????
 
carb filters can be cleaned without a rebuild kit normally, just be careful taking it apart and it will be fine.

fuel gauge is most likely a problem in your baffle, either sinking float, or blown F1 fuse, but pretty simple fix either way. disconnect the 2 pink wire plug coming from the baffle and short the two leads on the ski side and your fuel tank should then read full.
 
Took the carb apart and removed the filter in both, they were dirty, everything else looks good, they definatly did something to the carbs because one of the small lines has a real good pinch from the main carb bolt, I was wondering if that could still be done with checking gauge, I will go from there still yet to find the fuses, well SHIT tried to upload pics of the power valves that I pulled and it has an error any way when I pulled them they each brought out about an inch of carbon, cleaned them up and the inside of the valve piston chamber, they both have bad wear marks on them on one side, yeh rebuilt top end my ass, vacume out the exaulst and such as best that I could from falling carbon, then sprayed fogging oil in it, so when does a power valve have to be replaced? oh and dont think they have ever been cleaned befor.IMG_0582.jpgIMG_0583.jpg
 
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crossed over the two fuel sending lines the gauge works fine, pulled the sender which was a bitch to do as I had to remove the sides and glove box and shifter to do so, it all looked good put a ohm meter to it, not reading anything, figured it was the internal circits so I tried to cur it off at the top where the insert comes in, did not go high enough, but it was toast anyways the top left transister was shorted out, going to try and bypass it with some sauder, if I can find some plastic fitting I will drill out alittle bit of both sides of the internal tubing, plastic weld those inserts and put both endes back together, if I can get a good seal on the internal tubing and both parts of the main tube itself, I may have fixed it, but I am doubtful on this,but wourth a try, only taking an hour of time, so just in case I found a fuel baffle/sender for a 2002 xp #275500468 with this one work for my 2000 rx?IMG_0584.jpg
 
well, if you done a search or asked, I could have told you how to fix your baffle in 5 minutes. a simple hole drilled at the top in the proper location to access the F1 fuse and a drop of solder and it's done. I've fixed at least a hundred of them, all the F1 fuses fail sooner or later.

xpl fuel senders are different because their tanks are different deeper. the only difference between all the fuel baffles is the length, some have different length extensions on the bottom but of course the pc board is longer as well and unique but ohms always vary between 90 ohms empty and 0 ohms full tank. Pretty sure I have a brand new baffle in for the rx I can give you a pretty good deal on, what is the length of it overall and what is the length of the extension at bottom?
 
Yep I did searches for it but just ran accrossed the one today on how to do it the right way F#$% when I was told F1 fuse I was thinking of a plug in fuse, from bottom to the lip is 12 and 7/8"
 
I fell your pain but just chalk it up to a learning experience.

Yep, I have a brand new one in sealed package, p/n 275500469. List price is $172.49, the best price I can do is $130 shipped. If interested, just send paypal payment to ohiopowersports@woh.rr.com with the part number referenced in the note section.
 
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