2000 polaris slx 1200 Need help.

[blairwill4]

So I just picked up a ppolaris slx 1200 to go with my x4s. Thing runs great, has great compression, solid ski. Only problem is on the take off it revs real high and takes a second for the ski to get going. With me and my buddy on it... about 400 lbs..... had to hammer on it and bounce off the rev limiter a few times, to get her going. Once its on a plane it hauls. Gpsed it at 65.

Anyone think its a wear ring?? I also read that the ride plate sometimes looses seal on these things and needs resealed. Anything else I need to be checking? Thanks for the help!

 

[Dr Honda]

It's cavataion. AND... it's all the same issues as a seadoo.

1) High clearance in the ring. BUT... it's stainless. So if that's the prob... you will need an impeller too.

2) Air leaks around the shoe

3) Air leak in the driveshaft seal. (did you try to grease it?)



I can tell you, that my Genesis 1200 shows NO cavatation with 3 adults on it. (never had 4 people on it yet)


I would start with removing the pump, and drive-shaft. That way, you can inspect all the parts.

 

[Coastiejoe]

I would say Dr H nailed it..

 

[blairwill4]

You know I was actually looking around and saw that the ring is stainless.... Kind of dumb IMO. By driveshaft seal im assuming you mean the boot inside the hull on the shaft? I havent look at it yet does it have a grease zerk on it I can lube up? And im not familiar with what you mean by the "shoe" .... There was hardly any water in the hull at all after a long hard ride but I know these things have an auto bildge and I wasnt paying any attention to it while riding.

 

[Dr Honda]

The shoe is the support for the pump, and is the flat metal part on the bottom of the hull. If it's leaking... the water will bypass, and you get cavitation.


Yes... there is a grease fitting on the seal pack, where the driveshaft enters the hull. There may be a metal cover, with a hole in it. Look in the hole, and you should see the fitting. here again... if it's leaking... and the seals are bad... you can suck air in past the seals.

 

[blairwill4]

Perfect thank you tony. My ski is up at the lake so I wont be able to try until this weekend but I will report back my findings!

 

[blairwill4]

Okay So the beating on the driveshaft had a grease zerk on top. There was a lot of grease around it. Almost like it was leaking out. Filled it with the grease gun it took 15 squirts before it was full. She seemed to run better for about 10 seconds then was back to normal. If that bearing is bad could that be causing it? checked the ride plate and everything else and its sealed super tight. Also I was wondering, is it possible that the drive shaft could be slipping inside the pto or anything at take off?

 

[Dr Honda]

....... Also I was wondering, is it possible that the drive shaft could be slipping inside the pto or anything at take off?

Actually... yes it can be.

MAYBE....


On some of the Polaris skis... the "PTO" coupler on the end of the engine, has a rubber sleeve to help absorb vibration. It can rip, and then the outer part can turn past the center.

Because this can happen... a lot of people will swap out the PRO version, which is a solid coupler.

So... that is something to check. you may have to take that metal plate off, to get a good look at the PTO where the shaft enters the engine. If it's spun... then you will see shaves of rubber in the bottom of the hull.


BUT... since it got better with new grease... and because it took so much grease to fill it... I would rebuild the seal pack regardless of what you find on the PTO coupler.


If you have the aluminum seal pack... you need this kit:

http://www.shopsbt.com/polaris-jet-ski-driveline-repair-kit/70-301.html


If you have the black plastic pack... you can cut the end off, and still rebuild it with the kit above. OR... you can buy this:

http://www.shopsbt.com/polaris-jet-ski-driveline-repair-kit/70-308.html

 

[blairwill4]

Which metal plate are you refering to? There was a plastic cover on the drive shaft closest to the motor. Ill look to see if there is any rubber in the bottom of the hull. And ill pop that cover off and see what I can see. Thanks again Lou.

 

[blairwill4]

Another question. Can you point me in the right direction on where to find the rubber sleave that I will need if indeed that it has spun? And I dont know If I mentioned this or not but the wear ring and impellar look great. Very tight not a scratch on the impellar.

 

[Dr Honda]

The cover is the one over the drivshaft seal. Since the ski is used... it may not be on. (it coudl also be plastic over the coupler too)


The sleeve isn't replaceable. the PTO is a bonded unit. (Like a motor mount) You have to replace the entire PTO if it's ripped. It's over $200 new... so check ebay. I'm sure you can find one for $40~$60.

 

[blairwill4]

oh my. How much of a PITA is that to get off?

and is this the part you are talking about?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-Jet..._Watercraft_Parts&hash=item3380f8c78c&vxp=mtr

 

[Dr Honda]

Yep... that's it.


It's about the same as the seadoo unit. Put some rope down the PTO sparkplug hole, to lock the piston (don't get it in a port) then... unthread it.

But... I'm not convinced that is your prob. Ecpecally since you said you didn't see any rubber. You are probably feeling bad cavatation, from an air leak.

 

[blairwill4]

I havent looked for rubber yet. I tightened everything that could be tightened and checked pretty much every seal. Its really down to either that bearing or this rubber.

 

[Dr Honda]

Oh....


One other thing I just thought about. The fitting, that comes thought the hull... that the rubber boot, of the driveshaft seal clamps to... can be removed. Unlike seadoo... who glues that fitting in... Polaris has an O-ring, and it's threaded on tight. I would remove the pump, the seal, and the boot. Then you can get to that fitting. If the O-ring is split... that's your problem.

 

[blairwill4]

Oh....


One other thing I just thought about. The fitting, that comes thought the hull... that the rubber boot, of the driveshaft seal clamps to... can be removed. Unlike seadoo... who glues that fitting in... Polaris has an O-ring, and it's threaded on tight. I would remove the pump, the seal, and the boot. Then you can get to that fitting. If the O-ring is split... that's your problem.

Alright. Sounds like the pump just needs to come off and everything behind it needs to be inspected. Sounds like a good weekend project coming up.

 

[Dr Honda]

Alright. Sounds like the pump just needs to come off and everything behind it needs to be inspected. Sounds like a good weekend project coming up.

When I got my Genesis... that's what I did. BUT... what started my dive into pump/drive was I saw a bunch of white calking around that fitting in the hull. But... when I took it apart... I found a bunch of other issues. But... a little cleaning, and $30 worth of parts... and that ski runs great.

 

[blairwill4]

Lets hope thats the case for me as well!

 

[dannyual767]

blair, how did it turn out??

 

[blairwill4]

blair, how did it turn out??

Well, I took the pump off and it seemed to be sealed really well. Ride plate is tight. The driveshaft did not strip out the rubber boot. The only thing I think it could be was the bearing. Sadly I had to leave for vacation without my ski. THe bearing didnt arrive in time. Its sitting on my doorstep at home. When I get home this weekend Ill hopefullly Be able to put it together and let you guys know how it went. Ill keep everyone updated.

 

[blairwill4]

Welp I took it off again, and now there is a big hunk missing from my impellar and one of the little fins on the pump itself it mostly chipped off. Looks like im just going to end up getting the whole shabang. It will probably be cheaper then buying new pump, wear ring, and impellar. $$$$$$ flying out the window....