2000 GTX-RFI engine seized up

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We were riding our 2000 GTX-RFI skis this weekend, after about an hour or so of riding my wife said hers lost power and then could not get it started. Tried everything we could on the water, eventually had to tow it and take it home. I started looking at it, the battery is charged and I had new spark plugs in it, I can hear the starter clicking but engine will not crank. Any suggestions on what could have happened.
 
How many hours? Pull the spark plugs, remove the PTO cover and try and manually turn the engine over, try by the start button too. Could be a jammed starter bendix or a blown engine, or a rock in the impeller. Lets hope for something easy
 
Let's just assume for now it works. Can you turn the engine over by hand? Then if you can turn it over, will it turn over with the switch, then we can do a compression test to see if the top end is healthy. Right now the oil pump is low man on the totem pole, not to mention they're pretty much rock solid. It's the little oil lines coming from the pump that need attention.
 
I did several checks today, finally got the engine to turn by hand. I then removed cylinder head and inspected. Didn’t look to bad, sprayed WD-40 in cylinders and works the pistons up and down. Got the engine to crank with the start button. Also removed oil lines and inspected. Turned engine over and found one of the lines not getting oil. Think my mixer might be bad.
 
Ok. You really need to do a compression test. Plugs out and put the plug wires on the grounding posts, throttle wide open(will stop the fuel circuit), compression tester screwed into one cylinder. Crank until the gauge stops moving, should only be a few seconds. Then do the other cylinder. I'd think your oil injection pump would be the 1 in a million to fail, they're that rock solid. Everyone likes to believe they're the demise of their engine on a carbed ski. I say bleed the pump and see if it works. But again, that would be after I did a compression test. If I remember correctly, rfi's have a fuel injector(could be either one) that leaks fuel and washes the cylinder down. When you had the head of did you take pics? It would be nice to see everything. Comp test will tell all, then there's many other things that need to be checked, like fuel pressure, as the fuel pump sock in the tank and the list goes on.........


Oh, what did you need to do to get it to spin by hand?
 
Ok. You really need to do a compression test. Plugs out and put the plug wires on the grounding posts, throttle wide open(will stop the fuel circuit), compression tester screwed into one cylinder. Crank until the gauge stops moving, should only be a few seconds. Then do the other cylinder. I'd think your oil injection pump would be the 1 in a million to fail, they're that rock solid. Everyone likes to believe they're the demise of their engine on a carbed ski. I say bleed the pump and see if it works. But again, that would be after I did a compression test. If I remember correctly, rfi's have a fuel injector(could be either one) that leaks fuel and washes the cylinder down. When you had the head of did you take pics? It would be nice to see everything. Comp test will tell all, then there's many other things that need to be checked, like fuel pressure, as the fuel pump sock in the tank and the list goes on.........


Oh, what did you need to do to get it to spin by hand?
I used a chain strap wrench around the pto, didn’t take much to free it up. I will have to get a compression tester. So is there supposed to be oil coming from both hoses from the fuel pump
 
Yes, from that oil pump, but like I said before let's not dwell on the oil pump, not important right now. The fact that you had to use a chain wrench to get it to spin is very discouraging. Something is hurt inside, you should be able to spin it by hand....freely. Comp test and pics if you got them.
 
If it takes force to break it free then it was seized. How do you know it wasn’t getting oil? Was there air in the line? What oil are you using?

Darn you Racer, I was too slow [emoji16]
 
Ok, so this is a di not an rfi. Rfi is a 787 cc engine. You're looking for 140 on the compression. How many hours are on this engine? Are you at or beyond the 200 hour mark? I'm feeling less and less confident not knowing it's a 951di.
 
Ok, so this is a di not an rfi. Rfi is a 787 cc engine. You're looking for 140 on the compression. How many hours are on this engine? Are you at or beyond the 200 hour mark? I'm feeling less and less confident not knowing it's a 951di.
I was wrong on the engine size it is a 787, I have a 1999 GTX Limited that has the 951. I will have to check the hours tonite but I am going to do a compression checks tonite and take some pictures of the cylinders with the head cover off.
 
Just finished the compression tests, rear cylinder had 130lbs, the front cylinder only had 20 lbs. Going to start disassembling the motor. I also did test on oil pump and it was good. The hours on the ski is 130
 
OK, bummer but this is what I was suspecting all along, as that was the path I was leading you down. The numbers don't lie. I assumed the oil pump was solid, very rare they fail on these seadoos. If we've seen it once, seen it several times with these failures. You could have an injector that has failed and is leaking fuel washing the cylinder down. Read the following link............it's long. But Griz had these skis down, he's no longer a member here which sucks. You might want to slow down on the tear down so you can check a few things out first, like fuel pressure and leak down on injectors etc............ I believe he went into the fuel system very deep with pressure tests. No worry on the hours on the RFI per say. When you said 951 around the 200 hour mark they start to show age and failures.



The RFI (Rotax Fuel Injection ) Spot


.
 
Ok too late to slow down on the tear down, have the engine ready to come out. Will pull it out tomorrow and start going thru everything. Hopefully I can do the fuel system checks afterwards. Really appreciate the help, this Sea-Doo forum is awesome
 
Well, hopefully this isn't too late. But If you can look thru the throttle body port and rotate the engine over and watch as the rotary valve passes by and look in the intake ports on the cases and inspect the lower rod for damage. Do this BEFORE you pull the top end. If the crank is bad it will be much harder to remove the pto once the top end is pulled. Please, please, please post pics of the inside and cylinders etc when you unearth them. We can tell you a lot just from pics of these engines. Also, look in the oil that comes from the 2 lines that connect to the lower crankcase that supply the oil to the rotary shaft. If you see brass that is no bueno. I have a few ideas of what could be wrong. One is the brass gear jammed the other is a washer on the side of the rod let loose.
 
So it looks like this engine had been rebuilt once before. The base gasket is black not green like from the factory. Wrist pin bearing is caged. And the paint on the engine appears to be a different shade from the mag housing.

Could just be the lighting
 
That piston sure looks dry, no lube? Probably an SBT with the paint and cheap black base gasket.
 
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