2000 GTX RFI 787 Top end rebuild questions?

[SkierBD572]

I bought my GTX last Sept on an online auction. It had been sitting in a field for three years without being used. I cleaned it up and started off with a new battery, new plugs, fresh fuel, and oil. After trying to start it I realized it was siezed up and would not turn over. I was told by the dealership that winterized it last that it ran fine before it was parked for the three years. I hoped for the best and got it turn over with penetrating oil and a little 30wt down the spark plug holes. Thinking problem cured, I headed to the lake. To make a long story short, it ran good for about 10 min. I took it to the shore where my family was waiting to ride the new toy and when my wife got on it to take off, all it would do is bog down. We messed with it for a couple of hours and got it to go again intermittenly. Not knowing much about the functions of the ski, I assumed it was a fuel related issue (filter or fuel). By the time I messed with it again it was winter so I ordered and replaced the fuel filter and also the oil tank (it was cracked bad) and thought it was ready to go for summer. Well, once again it started fine ran good on the trailer but then disapointed me when it hit the water. It continued the same bogging issue. That is when I did what I should have done when I bought it. The compression was 70 in the rear cylinder and 0 in the front. I know nothing about engines so a friend of mine helped me tear it down. We found a broken ring in the front and just a little wear in the rear but nothing major. Everything else looks pretty good. I took the pistons and cylinders to the dealer to get their opinion. They suggested to put everything back together and send off as an exchange plus $950 for a new SBT. I'm not ready to part with that kind of money so I headed to the machine shop. He checked everything out and told me to order .5 oversized top end kit (82.50) and then bring it all back to him. So that is where I am at right now with the ski. My new SBT kit and rave valve rebuild kits should be here this weekend. In the meantime I am looking to learn as much as I can about the process. Sorry for the lengthy post but I figured with telling the history about it may eliminate some of the questions about what has been done so far.

Now time for my questions.

1. Is there a specified amount that I need to trim on the rave valves? Or do you just trim a little and check for clearance?
2. Do you have to do anything to the fuel injectors, exhaust, or anything else to accomodate the oversized top end?
3. Should I be concerned at this point with other issues that may have contributed to the bogging problem? I have read many posts that have suggested electrical problems (bad rectifier or mpem). One even mentioned an additional fuel filter inside the sending unit housing that is not shown on the parts manual.
4. There is no beep when lanyard is attached. Would the low or no compression issue cause this or should I search for something else? The control center says low oil even though it has one gallon in it. Would low oil cause no beep?
5. What type of break-in proceedures should I follow so I'm not doing this again this winter?

Thanks in advance for any help, advice, or reinstall tips that will help me get this ski running again and out to the lake this year.

 

[Dr Honda]

Don't try to just rebuild the top end. That crank will be tired, and probably rusty since it was sitting. That means the lower seals are questionable...and the bearings will be pitted.

If you do a top-end... I'm sure the lower won't last long, and the flying parts will destroy the new top. Basically... you will be wasting $$$.


That engine needs a full rebuild.

 

[Bnelson]

Don't try to just rebuild the top end. That crank will be tired, and probably rusty since it was sitting. That means the lower seals are questionable...and the bearings will be pitted.

If you do a top-end... I'm sure the lower won't last long, and the flying parts will destroy the new top. Basically... you will be wasting $$$.


That engine needs a full rebuild.

+1 on that.... If the top end was seized from rust, then just imagine what the crank looks like.... That fresh top end won't last very long at all when a crank bearing seizes....

 

[SkierBD572]

Thanks for the advice. That's what I was suspicious about. Is it better to just do an exchange with an SBT motor or rebuild the motor I've got? What all would you recommend to replace on the lower end if I was to rebuild?

 

[SkierBD572]

Is there a way to inspect the bearings, seals, and crank without doing the full rebuild? Only asking because the motor and ski have less than 100 hours on it. Would that make a difference?

 

[Bnelson]

Without a complete disassembly there would be no way to really inspect those bearings... But I can like 99% guarantee you that if this thing has sat with water in it and it rusted the pistons stuck, those crank bearings are toast... I would just put it all back together and send it off to a rebuilder that comes with a no fault warranty... You will be out almost just as much money doing the rebuild yourself, and doing it yourself has no warranty