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2000 GTX Fuel Gauge

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turbosl2

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I have a carbed model and when put the key in (not running) the fuel gauge displace has no bars yet it has almost a full tank of fuel. The rest of the display works. Is this a fuel baffle or is something wrong with the gauge? I am asking because i am not specifically familar with how the guage works, i dont see it "boot up" or do anything on the fuel meter
 
I have a carbed model and when put the key in (not running) the fuel gauge displace has no bars yet it has almost a full tank of fuel. The rest of the display works. Is this a fuel baffle or is something wrong with the gauge? I am asking because i am not specifically familar with how the guage works, i dont see it "boot up" or do anything on the fuel meter

Likely the fuel sender, both of my skis had this problem when I got them. You can take the glove box out to get to it and remove. Either the float has dropped out, or the little f1 fuse internally has failed, or there's corrosion in the top going to the board. There's a fix to cut it open and bridge or solder the f1 fuse. Or search ebay for a good used one.

Before reinstalling ohm ck it with a multi meter. Range is from 2 to 90 ohms if I remember correct.
 
I replaced my fuel sending unit in my '96 GTX, tight working quarters but we got it in.

I was initially hoping the float just fell out the bottom of the tube (can happen)..BUT was not my case.

So, me being me, I'm going to "fix" the original sender by cutting a hole in the tube over the F1 fuse location ( I researched the approx. location) to get a solder bridge over the fuse to make a straight through connection....GUESS WHAT.....NO F1 fuse on my circuit board....dammit!

Oh well....it's fixed with a new sending unit......WHICH by the way, has 2 - 1/4" hose ports and 2 - 5/16" hose ports on top (and of course, my ski has ALL new 1/4" black fuel lines). The original sending unit was all 1/4" fuel ports on the top. That's all resolved too.
 
I replaced my fuel sending unit in my '96 GTX, tight working quarters but we got it in.

I was initially hoping the float just fell out the bottom of the tube (can happen)..BUT was not my case.

So, me being me, I'm going to "fix" the original sender by cutting a hole in the tube over the F1 fuse location ( I researched the approx. location) to get a solder bridge over the fuse to make a straight through connection....GUESS WHAT.....NO F1 fuse on my circuit board....dammit!

Oh well....it's fixed with a new sending unit......WHICH by the way, has 2 - 1/4" hose ports and 2 - 5/16" hose ports on top (and of course, my ski has ALL new 1/4" black fuel lines). The original sending unit was all 1/4" fuel ports on the top. That's all resolved too.

On the 96' year it's higher up in the sender and it's a small black round plug in type.
 
I have a carbed model and when put the key in (not running) the fuel gauge displace has no bars yet it has almost a full tank of fuel. The rest of the display works. Is this a fuel baffle or is something wrong with the gauge? I am asking because i am not specifically familar with how the guage works, i dont see it "boot up" or do anything on the fuel meter
The fuel guage works via a float inside the fuel pickup tube in the top of the gas tank that has magnets along its side (on the float) that pass up /down along a circuit board and that tells the guage how much fuel is there (via height of fuel in the tank, NOT volume of fuel). So, its really a height sensor not necessarily indicative of volume of fuel in the tank. So its all based on approximation......if the tank holds 10 gallons and the tank is 12" tall...if the float is at 6", you have approx 5 gallons left...with a little reserve baked in.
 
On the 96' year it's higher up in the sender and it's a small black round plug in type.
I'l check again but I don't see anything that looks remotely like a fuse...I cut a good sized access hole at the top of the tube so I can pretty much see everything along the length of the circuit board.
 
I "don't" see anything on the backside but it is possible I guess.....another hole I will cut!
 
My original hole is cut on the float side of the circuit board....all the components appear to be on that side as well. I don't see anything on the backside of the circuit board that looks like a component of any sort....it would be a surprise if they put a fuse back there.....I'm going in regardless now....no guts, no glory.
 
My original hole is cut on the float side of the circuit board....all the components appear to be on that side as well. I don't see anything on the backside of the circuit board that looks like a component of any sort....it would be a surprise if they put a fuse back there.....I'm going in regardless now....no guts, no glory.

It's opposite side of the float side, very top, cut at the very lower edge of the ring to reach it. I unplugged the fuse and soldered it, but it didn't work. My problem was I had corrosion in the top breaking continuity on one of the leads going to the board. By the time I figured out the issue it was too hacked up so I picked up a good used 97' style one.
 
Thanks for the pointer....when I get back home in a few days, I’ll cut it open and we’ll see what we see.
 
The fuel guage works via a float inside the fuel pickup tube in the top of the gas tank that has magnets along its side (on the float) that pass up /down along a circuit board and that tells the guage how much fuel is there (via height of fuel in the tank, NOT volume of fuel). So, its really a height sensor not necessarily indicative of volume of fuel in the tank. So its all based on approximation......if the tank holds 10 gallons and the tank is 12" tall...if the float is at 6", you have approx 5 gallons left...with a little reserve baked in.

So when the gauge reads empty you should not see any bars? Sounds like a stupid question but I was expecting to see some sort of life when you put the key in. Like the meter move then drop to zero.

Also I don’t see a fuse. This is a carb model with a pickup tube and the baffle you described. I know the DI models have a different system. I ordered a baffle anyway but if the baffle was cracked I would expect to see a no fuel light? Or does it not have that.
 
So when the gauge reads empty you should not see any bars?

It works on a resistance scale fed to the gauge, when it reads empty and no bars, the float is at the very bottom and you're out of gas or the baffle doesn't work. Not sure about the 2000 GTX model, but on my 97' the warning light comes on at the last bar on the graph (1/8th left).
 
It works on a resistance scale fed to the gauge, when it reads empty and no bars, the float is at the very bottom and you're out of gas or the baffle doesn't work. Not sure about the 2000 GTX model, but on my 97' the warning light comes on at the last bar on the graph (1/8th left).

I will check if it has a warning light, if it does I am reluctant to change the baffle since it should be sitting on the bottom of its cracked and full of gas. I guess the magnets could be missing and fallen out but is that common
 
Pulled the pickup tube today to replace the baffle and there is no ohms at all with the new or old baffle. Open circuit. Where is this fuse everyone is talking about
 
Pulled the pickup tube today to replace the baffle and there is no ohms at all with the new or old baffle. Open circuit. Where is this fuse everyone is talking about

It should be at the top of the baffle about a 1/2" or so below the ridge, you need to slide that rubber piece off first to prep for the cut. Then cut with a hacksaw and a utility knife about a 1 1/2" down and 1" across to remove a section to get to it.

It should have "F1" labeled on the board. I broke it with the needle nose pliers then bridged it with a small piece of wire and solder. I put the cut piece back on then plastic welded it, then cleaned it up with sandpaper.

As an extra measure, I put a small glass fuse (1/2 amp) inline on one of the leads. It should ohm out after the fix, usually between 2 to 90 ohms as the float is slid in the tube.
 
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Thanks I will check it out tomorrow. I put my boroscope up there and didn’t see the little back cyclinder so I think my model is above the ridge. I will cut it and confirm
 
All fixed. My f1 fuse looked like a resistor, it was tough to find but I bridged it and it works perfectly now.IMG_7044.JPGIMG_7045.JPG
 
I did one like that a while back. I found a guy on Ebay that fixes them... I'm giving him a shot. :)
 
I didn't mention after I went through all that cutting open and finding the part then resealing... the float position thingy didn't read correctly. So I talked to the guy advertising on Ebay and he told me if it doesn't work when I get it back...it's the gauge. I can deal with that.
 
I didn't mention after I went through all that cutting open and finding the part then resealing... the float position thingy didn't read correctly. So I talked to the guy advertising on Ebay and he told me if it doesn't work when I get it back...it's the gauge. I can deal with that.

Good to know, surprisingly this worked out well. 0ohms and 90 are the numbers on mine and it’s perfectly synced with the gauge. My 03 challenger has the same system and the gauge never reads full and is always 1/4 off, error on the lower side. Seems like you would want that but it is deceiving when I go out for a few hrs it shows half tank but really it’s 3/4.
 
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