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2000 GTX carb 951 motor No start No compression

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wlong1957

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I had trouble with a no start on this 2000 model GTX. Compression was 25 with each cylinder using an inexpensive as compared to approximately 125 for each cylinder on another 2001 GTX .

I pulled the head and this is what I found. Both pistons are in the same condition. The head also has pieces of aluminum.embedded . I have always used synthetic two stroke oil . Is this normal wear or is it indicative of another issue? Also, I have ordered the special wrench to remove the exhaust. Once that is removed will the pipes separate easily or do you have to bang it loose?

Any advice is appreciated as I have never done this before
 

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If you remove all of the supports the exhaust pipe can be removed in one piece. The exhaust flange, I assume you ordered the wrench for that, will slide upward as the flange is slotted. I'd say you have to rebuild the engine completely. Good Luck !

Note - Be careful not to damage the rave valve solenoid. It is plastic and it doesn't make much to break off one of the hose connections. I'd remove the solenoid before I being putting large parts off the ski. Be gentle. (Your rave solenoid is likely BLACK and not exactly the same hose configuration as this one.)

2003 GTX DI Engine & Hose Connections Rave Solenoid.JPEG
 
i have removed and replace both pistons and rings . I have the cylinders in position with the gasket in place. Somehow I was able to get the cylinder out. Now on reassembly How do I get the 4 lower cylinder in place as there doesnt appear to have enough room to put them in place. I dread pulling the cylinders again.

Thanks
 
Are you talking about the "bolts/studs?" They have to be in place when you install the cylinders. You can't install them before the cylinders, as in tightening them. The cylinders and bolts have to be installed at the same time with the bolts merely in position and not screwed in.. Don't overtighten the studs. You'll probably have to remove the cylinders and begin again. It isn't a bad things, just a pain. When I did my first 951 there were people that said it was not possible to remove the cylinders and do a top end with the engine in place. :) Good Luck. Live and learn.
 
Are you talking about the "bolts/studs?" They have to be in place when you install the cylinders. You can't install them before the cylinders, as in tightening them. The cylinders and bolts have to be installed at the same time with the bolts merely in position and not screwed in.. Don't overtighten the studs. You'll probably have to remove the cylinders and begin again. It isn't a bad things, just a pain. When I did my first 951 there were people that said it was not possible to remove the cylinders and do a top end with the engine in place. :) Good Luck. Live and learn.
Thanks for the reply. All I had to do was pull out the cylinder a few inches .That allowed the cylinder to rotate on the pistons. Giving me room to insert the thru bolts. All in all this has been fairly simple and a lot easier than pulling the entire motor
 
Just have it sitting there. Still have to clean off the head for the new gasket. So have not checked. But when rotating by hand it seems as though compression will be good. Also the pistons and rings were badly degraded. A friend said most likely from running lean As cylinder walls were not scored or damaged at all leading mr to think not an oil issue. Your thoughts. My goal is to just get this 22 year old cranking and running for the kids and grandkids

Thanks
 
I'm working on the same ski as yourself. I did a top end on my ski also. Re-built the carbs w/Mikuni OEM I just need to get a new fuel selector and mount the exhaust and I should be able to fire it up. My concern is I don't know if my carb accelerator pump had that little orange diaphragm or not. I wasn't looking for it when I re-built the carbs. I'm tempted to pull the carbs and look. I hate to because I'm so close.
 
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