I am a new pwc owner and have a 2000 Seadoo GTI. Everything seems to run normally except for when I first hit the accelerator, it seems to bog down but then will "kick in" and get up to 45-50 mph easily and will run at that speed for extended periods of time. It seems to idle properly and run properly at the higher speeds, but seems to take a couple of seconds to get out of idle. Does this make any sense? Any ideas on what could be causing this? Thanks for any info.
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FLKustom
New Member
hey jwebb55,
I am a new (as of a week and a half ago) owner of a 99 GTX that did the same thing. When I started it, it would bog if I gave it too much gas but after a while it felt like it "cleared out" and I was able to get to a higher speed where it felt like it was running fine. But if I turned it off or slowed all the way down I would have to start the process over again
Mine was a fuel issue, My carbs were dirty and when the mechanic took a sample of the fuel out it was almost milky looking due to the grime that accumulated. I would start there first as others have said
I am a new (as of a week and a half ago) owner of a 99 GTX that did the same thing. When I started it, it would bog if I gave it too much gas but after a while it felt like it "cleared out" and I was able to get to a higher speed where it felt like it was running fine. But if I turned it off or slowed all the way down I would have to start the process over again
Mine was a fuel issue, My carbs were dirty and when the mechanic took a sample of the fuel out it was almost milky looking due to the grime that accumulated. I would start there first as others have said
riding high
New Member
Does your machine have the grey fuel lines??
I hate to go against the grain here, but to me it sounds like cavitation. Remove the reverse gate and take a look at the wear ring. The clearance between the impeller and wear ring should be no more than .040", about the thickness of a dime.
However if you still have grey fuel lines the need to be replaced, and the fuel system, including the carbs. need to be overhauled.
Lou
However if you still have grey fuel lines the need to be replaced, and the fuel system, including the carbs. need to be overhauled.
Lou
@gforney - I haven't had the carbs cleaned. I just took ownership about 2.5 weeks ago. I don't know when the carbs were last cleaned, if ever.
@FLKustom - What you're describing is exactly what I've experienced. I will look into the carb issue as everyone has said.
@riding high and LouDoo - I'm pretty sure the grey fuel lines are still there. I will have to look at it this weekend to make sure.
Thanks everyone for your responses. I will take your suggestions and look at the ski this weekend when I have some time. If you think of anything else please post again. I'll let you guys know what I find out.
@FLKustom - What you're describing is exactly what I've experienced. I will look into the carb issue as everyone has said.
@riding high and LouDoo - I'm pretty sure the grey fuel lines are still there. I will have to look at it this weekend to make sure.
Thanks everyone for your responses. I will take your suggestions and look at the ski this weekend when I have some time. If you think of anything else please post again. I'll let you guys know what I find out.
brock1
New Member
Not to go against your opinion lou but if he was cavitating he would be reving not bogging i would think...If he is bogging when he hits the throttle then that a fuel delivery problem or he is running rich...Until you get the old lines out and completly dissasemble the carbs and clean them we cant help you any further...i may be wrong lou so please correct me if i am
Is carb dis-assembly/cleaning something that needs to be taken to shop to accomplish or is it easily done myself?
I believe I already have the manual. When I purchase the ski, I searched online and found the owner's and service manuals. I'll have a look at the manual and if I'm not in over my head, I'll attempt the cleaning. Thanks
brock1
New Member
Well i will be the first to admit that im not good with carbs...I just took mine off my ski and sent them to DR. HONDA...if you decide that you cant do it...please please please dont send them to a dealer you will leave with more problems then you had...Doc charges 65 dollars and whatever parts you need for the carbs and it is WELL WORTH IT he will have them perfect and ready to bolt on and go...send him a PM and he will helpp ya
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