2 Stroke Oil for 1996 SeaDoo GTS

[jharding08]

I bought two 1996 SeaDoo GTS PWCs end of last season. Guy I got them from took care of them himself including replacing the engine in the one. I took them to a shop to winterize them last year and asked him what all is involved to get them ready this year and he said just put the battery back in. I did that and did a test fire just for a couple seconds and they both fired up.

I checked the oil on both before taking them out last Thursday and they were both at 1/2 full. One of them had oil that looked almost blue and the other had oil that was more like oil, brown. He had an old oil bottle in the trailer box and it was Valvoline Multi-Purpose 2-stroke oil, which looked more like the brown oil.

After reading the manual and it saying use only low ash API TC injection oil, the label on the valvoline says TC-W3 which the manual says not to use.

Is the blue oil different oil than the brown? Should I just get the SeaDoo XPS synthetic oil for both and can I drain out the old oil?

From my research, it seems like Full Synthetic is best. Options - SeaDoo XPS 2-stroke oil, AMSOIL 2-stroke and Quicksilver. I've read the reviews and all three seem viable.

Anyone have a link or picture of the Quicksilver Full Synthetic 2-stroke oil to get?

 

[KyleW2]

Since you don’t know exactly what was used, I’d drain them completely. Replace the in line oil filter on both of them. Change the 3/32nd oil pump lines also while you’re at it. Use Tygon line for that.

You can use the full synthetic but on your model it is unnecessary. The Seadoo mineral oil is a lot cheaper and is just fine for the engines your skis have.

 

[mikidymac]

You can also use the Lucas 2-cycle semi-synthetic oil for $30 a gallon and the XPS mineral is $35.

There’s only one Lucas that is API-TC so be careful.

 

[jharding08]

Thats great if I can just use mineral or synthetic blend for the 1996 GTS. The one engine was replaced and the new one only has 14 hours on it. Would that one be synthetic or it doenst matter if its new or not for the GTS engine?

What is the best way to drain the oil? I've read suck it out with a shop vac and run it until its almost gone? I'm no mechanic, so I need the most fool-proof way so I dont ruin anything.

 

[mikidymac]

If you have the 720 engine or smaller you don't have to run synthetic or semi-synthetic if you don't want to.

The best is to siphon as much oil out then remove the tank and rinse it out with fuel. You will need to replace the white inline oil filter when switching oil also and the bleed the line.

 

[1of500]

The seadoo mineral is fairly cheap can stock up on Amazon

 

[jharding08]

I'm wondering if the current oil is why I am having issues with my one SeaDoo. I took it out yesterday and it would rev up for like 5 seconds, then automatically bog down, almost to the point of stalling if I didnt let off the throttle. It would idle fine, but when I got it up to speed, it would rev up then bog down. If I went around a turn it would bog down to almost stalling. It would also run fine at half speed if I kept it there.

This is only the second time I have taken both of them out this season and am wondering if I didnt do something after winterization? The other SeaDoo that has the synthetic oil runs like a champ, its also a newer engine (14 hrs on it)

Something just seems off with the engine on the one ski, either too much oil/not enough air/etc. I'm not that familiar with the engine yet to be able to troubleshoot

 

[mikidymac]

Oil would not cause that issue. Sounds like something is wrong with your carb and/or fuel system.

 

[Seadoobuddy]

If you don't know for sure the oil used then I would drain them and put in BRP or Amsoil Interceptor. I'm a sponsor of this forum and also an Amsoil Direct dealer. Visit www.Gosynthetic4U.Rocks and click on the link for your free Preferred Customer catalog . Save 25-35% from normal retail prices.

 

[jharding08]

Oil would not cause that issue. Sounds like something is wrong with your carb and/or fuel system.

From what I have researched, seems like the first step people have done/say to do is replace the spark plugs and fuel lines. Does this sound right?

Looks like in the Technical Data of the Service Manual its the NGK BR7ES plugs with .5-.6mm gap. From what I see online, those plugs come with .8mm gap. I should be able to adjust it right?

 

[Mike R]

What is correct 2 stroke oil for 96 Spi 587 engine?

 

[mikidymac]

From what I have researched, seems like the first step people have done/say to do is replace the spark plugs and fuel lines. Does this sound right?

Looks like in the Technical Data of the Service Manual its the NGK BR7ES plugs with .5-.6mm gap. From what I see online, those plugs come with .8mm gap. I should be able to adjust it right?

Yes, you should adjust them.

 

[mikidymac]

What is correct 2 stroke oil for 96 Spi 587 engine?

Any API-TC rated oil. But if you are changing brands drain out all the old oil and change the oil filter as you can't mix two different brands.

 

[jharding08]

Yes, you should adjust them.

Thank you. Is it ok to hook the garden hose up to the cooling lines and then test out to see if I can run full throttle for more than 5 seconds? I'd rather test it out of the water rather than having to go to the lake to test.

 

[mikidymac]

No you don't need water if running it for less than a minute.

Running out of the water will tell you absolutely nothing other than it runs.

 

[jharding08]

If I was having the issue of the engine bogging down after 5 seconds of full throttle in the water, can I try to replicate the same behavior out of water?

Start on trailer without hose hooked up, run full throttle for 5 seconds to see if it bogs down like when in the water?

 

[mikidymac]

No, it won't show any symptoms out of the water.

Typically bogging at high rpm is a carb/fuel system issue.

 

[jharding08]

I found this: Troubleshoot Fuel Delivery Problems : low revs, bogging, surging

Going to replace plugs. Checked fuel filter and it looks good, no contamination or water from what I could see. Once replacing, do I need to pressurize or can I just turn the selector back to ON?

Next step is the carburetor filters and screws

 

[jharding08]

Oil would not cause that issue. Sounds like something is wrong with your carb and/or fuel system.

So I replaced the plugs and rebuilt the carb using your thread, which was very helpful.

I was able to start the ski on the trailer to make sure it would idle, then took it out on the water yesterday.

It started and ran, but when I gunned it, it bogged down the same as before. This time, I changed the fuel selector to Reserve and gunned it again and it ran fine. Looks like it was the Fuel Selector Valve that is gummed up. I am going to order another one.

I should probably replace the fuel lines since the fuel selector valve is before the inline fuel filter, which looked clean and the carb filter, which was somewhat gummed up, but not like some I've seen when researching rebuilding. OSDparts, which is where I bought the 'Back to OEM' carb rebuild kit, has replacement gray marine fuel line for $1.79 a foot (OSD GRAY MARINE FUEL LINE (ALCOHOL RESISTANT - 6MM 1/4 ID) (SOLD BY THE FOOT) [OSD3207] - $1.79). Is this comparable to 1/4" automotive fuel line from an auto parts store? Just wondering if I should buy it all at one time.

And a replacement inline fuel filter?

 

[clegg]

Hopefully that back to oem carb kit is a genuine Mikuni kit. I would just use black fuel line from an auto parts or black marine line from a marine store.