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1999 XP Limited starter works at home, but not after trailering

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nerdlinger

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First some data: 1999 XP Limited. Gauges, trim, etc all work. Battery on trickle charger after every use. Gas/oil full. Key is clean, no corrosion on key or terminal. Top speed 61 mph. Spark plugs good.

Here's the problem: it starts on the first turn at home, but after driving about 30 minutes to the lake it will not start. I can hear the starter clicking when I press the start button, but the engine makes no sound. Most recently it took about 30 minutes of attempts before it fired up, then I ran it for 10 minutes in the water and shut it off. Once again it wouldn't start, so it took another 15 minutes of trying to get it started. This time it started and I pulled a tube the rest of the day with multiple stops and restarts for fallen riders with no problems restarting. Then, after driving back home it started right away when I flushed it with the garden hose.

This is frustrating. Any ideas?
 
cables

Cables and connections have been checked and there don't appear to be any problems. I don't see how that would be the issue since it runs fine once it gets going for the day. I suppose that a cable or wire could be kinked or frayed within the insulating layers, but which one would be the culprit for this problem?
 
The starter solenoid is going bad. I have a lawn tractor that does the same thing. Even with a new battery… I can hit the key a dozen times and just hear a loud click… then the very next one, it will crank. On the tractor… it’s annoying… But I wouldn’t want it happening out in the water.

Good luck
 
Engine ground...?

Cables and connections have been checked and there don't appear to be any problems. I don't see how that would be the issue since it runs fine once it gets going for the day. I suppose that a cable or wire could be kinked or frayed within the insulating layers, but which one would be the culprit for this problem?
You'd be surprised how important the cables are for charging and running your ski.

Like Dr Honda says, it could be the solenoid, if all you got were clicks. But, if the ground at the engine block is lose and you push the start/stop button, the lose cable will arc off the engine and not get contact for starting. When being bumped around in the water, it could re-connect and give you a start again.

If the battery cable comes loose while your running, you'll be running on your magneto, not putting any power back into the battery.

My point is, the cables are very relevant to your problem. They need to be checked often for corrosion and to make sure you have a good connection. Not just at the battery but at the engine block too.
 
Engine ground . . .

I've checked every bit of electrical wire that I can see and I followed the advice of the repair manual but I can't find any issues with the wires. There is no corrosion, no frays, no rust. Inside the electrical box where the solenoid is is pristine. Should I use a multimeter to check all the wires now instead of just replacing the solenoid?
 
Have you load tested the battery?

its one of 3 things....

1) starter going bad. Happens all of the time... Electric motor in the bottom of the hull in a water application. brushes corrode weakening it and making you chase gremlins all over the ski.

2) solenoid going bad, every time a solenoid works, it arcs across causing slight burn marks on the surface so just because it looks new doesent mean it is. ( I have drilled the 4 tabs on them many times, sanded the contacts and riveted them back together.

3) batt has a dead cell, it will read 13 volts but has very Low Amps. will turn over on the trailer but add the resistance of the water + 30 minutes drain time to the lake and wala.... next time in the water if you hit the starter, and it clunks like the starter engages but wont turn, reach down and turn the drive shaft with your hand clockwise as far as you can (it will only move about 1/4 of an inch before you hit compression... then try the button. if it cranks, this is a tale tale sign the batt is bad.
 
All things . . .

The battery has been tested, and the scenerio you described in part 3) doesn't apply because once I get it going I can ride all day (5-6 hours) and it always starts right back up after I shut it off. It's just the initial start that gives me issues.

I'll probably change the solenoid and see if that works. That's certainly the easiest and cheapest route to begin with. The starter isn't easy to get to so I've got my fingers crossed that it isn't the problem.

Thanks for the advice.
 
ok when you try to start it the first time, is it a click or a clunk you are hearing?


sounds strange but there is a difference a slight click from electrical box is solenoid. a clunk is the starter trying to engage.

if its just the click open electric box and jump across the solenoid ( I use a pair of pliers and grab both large terminals at the same time). if it tries to start you know your problem... (solenoid)
 
I replaced the solenoid and had the same problem . . . this time it wouldn't start at all, so I decided to get into the guts of it and see what the starter was up to. It seems that one of the starter mount bolts was broken and the long, skinny starter bolts were loose. Cables are in great shape . . . no corrosion on the + or -. I would expect the starter to still spin, but it didn't. Starter bench test was a-ok.
 
I repaired the situation with the loose and broken starter bolts and everything is fine. Apprarently the starter was loose so it just wasn't engaging. I would still expect some noise from it, like a "clunk" as All Things Custom said, but there was nothing but clicking from the solenoid. It starts fine now that everything is tightened up again.
 
what was happing is while trailering there is vibration and was moving the starter out of line with a broken mounting bolt, however after toying with it and also trying to start it, it most likely was lining itself back up just enough to engauge, but the last time it was enough out of wack to no engauge at all.
 
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