• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

1998 GTX Pre Mix the oil?

Status
Not open for further replies.
R

Rdizz

New Member
1997 GTX Pre Mix the oil?

So far, through my research, since I am nearing my completion of Carb rebuild, new rave valves, fuel selector valve, and fuel lines.

Now i am thinking to move on to the oil system

I read conflicting reports some people say oil pump is as reliable as they come and to make sure I replace oil lines and filter.

while others say go premix and never look back.

But i cant seem to find any documentation on how to change the oil filter and lines, in fact I dont even know where they are lol?

Any help on this would be awesome.

My other solution is to convert to a premix and not worry about it. Thanks again in advance!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I am fairly new to Seadoo, though my experience with automatic oil injection via pump has been through decades with dirt bikes. I have found the pumps to be extremely reliable, and would not want to go back to premix.
 
The oil pumps in our skis are very reliable. Even if you do go pre-mix, many skis require the oil tank for the Rotary Valves...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
And don't use vinyl lines. Use the right stuff. It is more expensive but hey chances are yours lasted almost 20 years or more.


The pumps are very reliable. Mixing oils is dangerous. Usually the only time I've seen people change the lines is when then are damaged or mixing oils has resulted in a gelling situation.

The things I've seen with these pumps is using the wrong lines on the outlets.
Use 3/32 tygon line. Its like a hydraulic line which is much better than 1/8 fuel line.

The only failure I've seen on these pumps is the return spring corroding and releasing which causes the oil system to go full open and the internal oil seal around the drive shaft leaks.
 
Well at this point I have no idea what oil is already in the skis.... I did buy some synthetic and pour it down the cylinders so I may have a bigger problem ?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You won't have a problem if you service the oil injection system now and confirm it's calibrated, flush the unknown oil out of tank and lines, replace the small 3/32" F-4040-A Tygon lines, etc., just make sure it's all working and correctly adjusted.

Sometimes the brass fitting nipples on the oil pump can work lose and begin leaking, you'll see some oil in your bilge and will notice air bubbles might accumulate in the 3/32 lines. Not good.

Go easy on the air-bleed screw on the injection pump, it's easy to over tighten and break the screw.

Also make sure to clean the injector nozzles on the intake manifold, they tend to gum after 20 years. Especially if previous owner was maybe not using the correct type of oil. Mixing regular TCW3 outboard oil and the correct API-TC Seadoo type XPS oil can clog up the system, resulting in jello inside the oil stainer filter (special made filter for straining larger particles from the oil), this filter is white usually and in supply tube feeding injection pump.

Your BRP factory service manual covers the oil injection system maintenance and setup very well, download for your model and you'll see what I mean.

Personally, if you're willing to perform a proper maintenance on this oil injection system from stem to stern, I believe you will see the benefit. I think it's top-notch.

One more thing to remember, if you're not certain the system is injecting properly (for whatever reason) you can always add some amount of oil to the fuel tank while working out the bugs, the fuel will provide the lubrication during this time of uncertainty.
 
This may be above my mechanical skill.... would it be easier and safer for me to convert to premix? And during this time of uncertainty what ratio would you suggest adding to tank?

Now from what I can gather it is the better option to just maintain the oil injection system. But when all said and done I just can't find a good how to guide not even on how to properly change the inline filter. It does seem to be the safer option for me to just convert to premix. Anyone know where I can find some how to guides on either?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The shop manual is very good; get here as premium member or download from a number of places: search for SeaDoo shop manual.

The small oil line can be acquired from any lawnmower repair shop. There is very little pressure on the oil lines.

As sportster said above, you need the proper oil per the spec he stated. There are many acceptable oils that are full-synthetic and clearly marked for PWC not outboard. Recommended mix is 40:1. Conversion to premix will result in much higher oil consumption.

You can do it!!

Rod
 
I'll grab the oil lines, I downloaded the manuals either I'm blind or there is not any procedures in there on how to replace the oil filter. Am I to just pull lines replace filter install lines and be done?
 
Are there supposed to be oil lines that connect directly to the carb? As of now I only have the new fuel lines connected to the carb
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The small oil lines from the oil pump connect to the RV cover which is what the carbs connect to. Was this the question?
 
RodInEscondido said:
The small oil lines from the oil pump connect to the RV cover which is what the carbs connect to. Was this the question?
Click to expand...

I will post a picture when I get home from work just want to make sure it's all hooked up before I tried to turn in over. Would it be recommend to pour a little bit of oil down the plug holes?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

1
1995 Seadoo Gtx Fuel System Questions
2
Replies
26
Views
877
burtshaver2021
burtshaver2021
sgboudre
94 SP 587 Oil in Exhaust
Replies
1
Views
177
burtshaver2021
burtshaver2021
9
1996 xp help PLEASE
2
Replies
27
Views
1,038
burtshaver2021
burtshaver2021
R
Starting 717 after rebuild
Replies
6
Views
370
mikidymac
mikidymac
O
Need some 94 gts oil line help
Replies
23
Views
595
mikidymac
mikidymac
Back
Top