1998 GTX Limited Ignition System question

[SIMPLEARKANSAN]

I picked up another 98 GTX. Has 150 compression, beeps twice when I put key on Dess post. Gauges aren’t working(or that’s another issue), I I can jump solenoid and it turns over, can verify spark on each cylinder. I have 12 volts on battery side of the solenoid, and 12 bolts at the yellow red wire that enters bottom of solenoid plug. I ohmed the black wire from the coil to the small plug that houses the yellow/red wire plug. I am not getting a click or anything from the solenoid. So would you say that the solenoid is toast or is there something else going on?

 

[artr]

I have a 96 GTX and there is a yellow red wire and a black wire at the base of the solenoid. If you know you get 12V on the red yellow wire and a good ground on the black and the connections to the solenoid are clean then the solenoid should be replaced. You could also disconnect the two small wires at the base of the solenoid and test for continuity between those inputs to the solenoid. If it measures open then the solenoid is shot.

 

[SIMPLEARKANSAN]

Gotcha. I’ll try that. The solenoid has a black wire running from the input over to ignition coil. I ohmed that wire, but how do I know there’s a good ground? I guess I could run a wire directly from the negative post of battery to where all three black wires connect to ignition coil.

 

[SIMPLEARKANSAN]

My solenoid tested good. No open load message at the two inputs located for
The plug. Also all my fuses are good also

 

[artr]

On mine there was a bolt at the ignition coil that attached a number of ground connections including the start solenoid ground. That bolt and the wire connections to it were corroded due to age and moisture and could cause issues with the coil and start solenoid. You can measure continuity between the start solenoid ground connection and engine ground or the battery negative. If you don't get continuity then that could be the problem. I would run the jumper from the battery negative to the ground input at the base of the solenoid in addition to the ground connection from the coil. If the start solenoid works then clean up the ground connections at the coil.

 

[SIMPLEARKANSAN]

Thanks. That’s what I’m thinking. It was pretty corroded and may be my issue. I’ll tackle that tomorrow and let you know if it solved my problem. Where does the rear electrical box normally get it’s ground?

 

[artr]

I did not see your 2nd reply that the solenoid inputs had continuity. That is the electromagnet that will cause the internal plunger to short the 2 big upper connections together (thats the click you hear) and send 12V to the starter. While it's good that the electromagnet is not an open circuit there could still be other problems with the solenoid like a broken or seized plunger or corroded internal contacts that close but don't allow high current to flow to the starter. But it's good to clean up all those ground connections at the coil. Hopefully that is the issue.

 

[SIMPLEARKANSAN]

Does that little black wire near the starter give ground to rear electrical box?

 

[artr]

The schematic for your model shows that the ground going to the rear electrical box comes from the MPEM pin 3-17. On my model there is a small black wire connected directly to the battery negative post that goes into the rear electrical box. It is connected along with the large black cable that goes to the starter. The picture above shows a couple of black wires that appear to be connected to engine ground. You would need to trace them to see if they run to the MPEM and are connected to pin 3-17.

 

[SIMPLEARKANSAN]

So tonight I ran a ground directly from battery to the coil wire with all of grounds. I ran another ground wire directly from the battery to the ground location up near the oil pump. I have power at all of the MPEM fuses, double beep when Dess key installed, power at yellow/red wire entering the bottom of starter solenoid. I’m going to re-ohm the black wire that runs to bottom of starter solenoid. I have a new starter solenoid arriving tomorrow. I hope that’s the issue. Tonight I put a little premix gas in the cylinders and jump the solenoid and the ski tries to start. I still have to go through the fuel system, I was just wanting to see if it would attempt to start.

 

[etemplet]

man you're gonna be a guru if you keep this up. LOL I'll say this, you can have 12 volts on the wire you are checking and the wire can be broken or corroded and won't carry the load. I had that weird problem on a Yamaha. The wire was corroded and breaking down internally but always read 12 volts when it was suppose to.

I would have already replaced the solenoid cuz I don't like messing around with that stuff and they are cheap.

If you have a spare plug that will plug into the solenoid. You can apply your 12 volts and ground there to see what happens.
As you all have discussed, the pins on the MPEM can get corroded or just make bad contact. I've shifted them around a bit and had the ski start working.

I don't think you have this problem but you can check. I had a bad coil that pulled down the electrical system when I hit the start button. Check your voltage drops when you engage the start button. Good Luck.

 

[SIMPLEARKANSAN]

I know, feels like I’ve almost tried everything. My new starter solenoid will be here today. I’m getting 12 volts from yellow/red wire at solenoid input. I hope the new part fixes it up. Will keep you posted

 

[etemplet]

I am a good resource for weird stuff. LOL Keep us in the loop.

Just a tidbit, my XP would not start until I let go of the start button. The ski ran great. When I shut the engine down and went for a restart I could hold the button in and turn the engine over and it would NEVER start. Then, as soon as I let go of the start button the engine fired right up and ran great. Figured it out one evening with the Louisiana Skeeters tearing my butt up while I worked on the ski. LOL so.... nothing is too crazy for ole Gene.

 

[SIMPLEARKANSAN]

Got the new starter solenoid installed. Same result. I tested to make sure I had 12 coming into the solenoid and same result. Reseated the plug and it started right up. Wasn’t expecting it to run. Gas is prolly 10 years old. I was just wanting it to turn over. I think your right about the yellow/red wire. May have broken down internally or I just finally got the plug seated just right? I’ll prolly order a new/different rear electrical box.

 

[etemplet]

i wouldn't change anything if it is working. Clean the plugs and check the wires. yea get that crap gas outta there. Great News!!

 

[SIMPLEARKANSAN]

I’ll rebuild carbs to OEM, go through entire fuel system, and drain all gas.

 

[SIMPLEARKANSAN]

How do you test the Rave valve solenoid that mounts on side of hull and feeds both valves. What are symptoms if it’s bad?