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1997 xp

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Smokymance

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So last year i purchased this 97 XP ...iv done much research and cannot come to a conclusion...

Replaced the plugs, replaced the grey fuel lines...replaced the rave valves and cleaned them out...only thing that broke this season after i took it out of winterizing was the Gas gauge stopped working....

Its always had a little miss from idle to WOT...especially when its colder...most of the time it will shut off when you get on it unless u ease into it to WOT

I decided to clean the carbs out recently as per articles you guys have written in the stickies, and literally everything looks immaculate...no green build up, no residue anywhere...seals look perfect...the black very thin baffles or diaframs seals (no idea on the name)might need replacement as i wouldn't have the slightest idea how to tell their condition, but they look perfect to me too, no rips or tears...do you guys recomment buying the rebuild kit regardless?

What else could i look into to see if its clean or working properly?

its really annoying not having that low end pull from idle to even take off...TOP speed it does perfect...kept up with my friends 1100 triple Kawasaki ...just low end it suffers

Here is a few pics of the carbs

4.jpg


5.jpg


Thanks guys
 
an external pic of the carbs is useless. Also... I'm still seeing gray hoses on the accelerator pump lines. They need changed too.

Did you actually take the carbs apart? Did you pull the small internal filter? Did you verify 100% that the transition ports were all clear? Did you verify that the accelerator pump was working, and squirting the same amount in each carb?

When dealing with carbs... you have to be very methodical.

With that said... you could have high clearance in the rotary valve. That causes the same problems.
 
I am very interested in this thread. I have the same model (Since new). I have completed replacement of all hoses. I have completed an engine rebuild including carbs and raves. I have checked the a-pump to make sure it is pumping same amount in both carbs. Checked the water regulator and I still have this same issue between idle and speed.

One thing I have noticed in the images posted above. This carb set has the same in-line check valve on the small a-pump fuel lines just after the a-pump as mine. This part is not included in any of the diagrams/parts list that I can find. I thought the pump itself had a check valve in it. Can someone tell me what this part is for and why two check valves are needed? Any other ideas on the cause if this lag between idle and speed for us to checkout? This ski has done it since I can remember, even just after carb cleaning and then carb rebuild.
 
I had mine apart recently and there is no check valve in the pump. I found a blockage at the elbow on the inlet side of the a-pump that was stopping it from working. When i first replaced the fuel lines and filters, I had a 1/2 second hesitation just as the throttle was cracked from idle. I found that the low speed screws were completely closed and the accel pump wasn't working. I reset the low speed screws to the manual specified 1 turn out and was way too rich, and ended up at around 1/2 turn out, just slightly rich but no fouled plugs. Idled up and down several coves last weekend and no bog or hesitation when I got back to open water.
 
Dr Honda...internal filters are spotless...as is everything else in the carbs...i do believe someone had rebuilt or play with them at one time...
7.jpg


I was not aware of these a-pump grey lines and i never replaced them...after removing them today, i noticed this little nipple in line..i cleaned it as well...do i just place it inline again ? it just seemed to be sitting inline...what size is this line? 1/8in?
8.jpg


Also, does anyone have instructions and factory settings on the turns for a 97 XP for the idle, low and high? id like to reset them since i have the carbs out...or should i just leave them alone?
 
Also, does anyone have instructions and factory settings on the turns for a 97 XP for the idle, low and high? id like to reset them since i have the carbs out...or should i just leave them alone?
high speed: 0 turns
low speed: 1 turn

Adjust the LS in small (1/8 or 1/4 turn)increments evenly on both carbs. Leave the HS alone at 0 turns.

Also, do leave that brass inside the line nozzle in there. Make sure it is good and clean.
 
JJ, do you have any pics or circle my pics on which is the low/high side as well as idle?

i have no clue...

also, correct way to adjust is turn clockwise till stop,then counterclockwise 1 turn?
 
Correct, In until soft stop then counterclockwise 1 turn on the LS. The LS is right beside the throttle. Just to the left of the throttle as they sit on the motor. The other is the HS. It may still have a plastic knob on it to prevent more than 1/4 turn adjustments. The carbs do not have an idle jet. The idle is set by the idle adjustment/throttle stop screw on the throttle linkage.

Here are the low speeds...
sdcarb1.jpg

and here is the idle adjustment...
sdcarb2.jpg
 
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Thank you JJ,

Here are my "hopefully i didnt move the screws unintentionally when removing the carbs" stock settings and observations...

The PTO vs MAG carb have slightly off low settings, how do i individually adjust these settings or know what a good setting would be? spark plug reading?

The PTO carb slow speed setting, almost horizontal:
11.jpg


MAG carb setting, slightly higher angle:
12.jpg


Same with the High Speed...slightly off from each other, once again, how do i individually know where to adjust them to correctly?

PTO High Setting
13.jpg


MAG High Setting
14.jpg


Another observation i had was the throttle blade sitting...they seem to sit different...does this cause any issues? will it need adjustment?

PTO seems to sit filly closed vs the MAG
15.jpg


MAG, slight opening
16.jpg


Thanks for all the help ...

LM
 
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You won't see the true idle adjustment when the carbs are off because there is only one idle screw, on the mag carb, and the linkage holds the pto carb open when they are bolted to the intake.
 
Yep... what Strizzo said. AND... because of that... you have to check that the carbs are sync'ed after you put them back on the manifold.


As far as the filter... once again... the pic isn't much help. Yes, inside the cover, and the fuel nipples look very clean... but the filter is in the carb(s) and I can see it. You have to pull it out to look at it.

The comments about the high and low fuel screws are useless too. They need to come out to clean all the internal passages. Then, once EVERYTHING has been verified... put them back in, and adjust them to factory specs. Every seadoo I've worked on will run just fine at the factory settings.
 
Yep... what Strizzo said. AND... because of that... you have to check that the carbs are sync'ed after you put them back on the manifold.


As far as the filter... once again... the pic isn't much help. Yes, inside the cover, and the fuel nipples look very clean... but the filter is in the carb(s) and I can see it. You have to pull it out to look at it.

The comments about the high and low fuel screws are useless too. They need to come out to clean all the internal passages. Then, once EVERYTHING has been verified... put them back in, and adjust them to factory specs. Every seadoo I've worked on will run just fine at the factory settings.

DR...sorry for the misscomunication...i had pulled the filters off and checked they were clean...here they are...thats how they came out from the carbs untouched....

18.jpg


19.jpg


i pulled the low and high speed screws off right now...everything looks clean and no gunk...will take them in the garage after breakfast and carb clean everything to make sure its all good to go...

ONE THING I DID NOTICE WAS THAT THE LOW SPEED SCREW WAS ABOUT 3 TURNS COUNTERCLOCKWISE after i turned it all the way to stop clockwise...im assuming this isnt good sign...what would that mean ? rich or lean or crappy running at low speeds? im not sure what the low and high settings do....

The high speed was about 1/4 and 1/8th CCW after full stop at CW...

I will clean everything, turn the Low speed to 1 CCW turn after full CW stop and high speed at full stop CW?
 
Yes and on this model both the PTO and the MAG should be set exactly the same. Don't worry too much if the screws do not orient the same, just make sure the count in 1/4 turns are correct.

A comment about the LS being out 3 turns. I found mine the same way when I pulled them the first time. However, after the cleaning, I put them back to factory setting.
 
i will make sure the High screws are moved at 1/8 or 1/4 turns identical....how do i know what to set it at? after i drive it see how it feels? what am i looking at?

Also, what size is the accelerator pump grey lines...i need to go find some...and seems to small for an auto place store to have
 
Bought new lines, and im putting everything back together when i decided to put a line on the accelerator nozzles into the carb and see how they flow...i cant seem to blow through them...are they clogged? or are they that small that i cant blow thru them? how do i clean them... cant seem to get anything thru it...same with the check valve...cant really blow thru it....

21.jpg
 
Got everything back in...

got the accel nozzles to spray with a manual bike pump...ran some carb cleaner thru them...

I cant really get the inline check valve to blow thru....do they usually go bad? Also, am i pointing it the right way? its pointing towards the pump...

23.jpg
 
Also, am i pointing it the right way? its pointing towards the pump...

23.jpg

I believe that is backwards. It should be pointing towards the carb.


High speed should be set to 0 and leave it there. No need to mess with that one. Dr. Honda can explain why better than me. Low speed can be adjusted, but the trick is adjusting it in small increments until the idle is a smooth as silk while the flame arrestor and the air box is on and in place. That makes it a big challenge, but it is doable. Then adjust idle to 1500 rpm in the water (needs a load on the jet pump). You can start by adjusting the idle to 3000 rpm out of the water.
 
Thank you JJ...thats not a good sign as on my first pic on this thread, the check valve is pointing towards the pump...so that means it was always installed backwards...i am still worried i wasnt able to blow thru it with my bike pump...it was way hard...

I will adjust the HIGH to 0 and play with the low....too bad i dont have an RPM gauge....
 
Where could i get a check valve? any input or diagram showing its direction? i cant seem to find anything about it...
 
So last year i purchased this 97 XP ...iv done much research and cannot come to a conclusion...

Replaced the plugs, replaced the grey fuel lines...replaced the rave valves and cleaned them out...only thing that broke this season after i took it out of winterizing was the Gas gauge stopped working....

Its always had a little miss from idle to WOT...especially when its colder...most of the time it will shut off when you get on it unless u ease into it to WOT

I decided to clean the carbs out recently as per articles you guys have written in the stickies, and literally everything looks immaculate...no green build up, no residue anywhere...seals look perfect...the black very thin baffles or diaframs seals (no idea on the name)might need replacement as i wouldn't have the slightest idea how to tell their condition, but they look perfect to me too, no rips or tears...do you guys recomment buying the rebuild kit regardless?

What else could i look into to see if its clean or working properly?

its really annoying not having that low end pull from idle to even take off...TOP speed it does perfect...kept up with my friends 1100 triple Kawasaki ...just low end it suffers

Here is a few pics of the carbs

Thanks guys

i have the same ski and i believe that lack of power you are talking about inbetween idle and speed is normal. its due to the fact that seadoo used a small engine in the hull, the following years had the 951 not the 787.

my question, how bad is it if the low speed on the carbs are set a little differently. i feel a little bit of back fire and off balance in the engine when its at 20%
thanks
 
I believe my problem could be caused by the check valve actually being placed backwards...not 100% sure but its definitely not helping...

i need need advice, am i right?

36.jpg


37.jpg
 
Lil video i took of the jets today...the PTO carb jet seemed to be lil clogged still after i spun the check valve backwards and now it actually squirts...


Sea Doo Accelerator Jets

One issue i found was that after i shut it down with the off button, it sky rocked rev'ed up till i chocked it, you can see it at the end of video...

Is this cause i have no flame resistor and intake box on and its out the water???
 
Ski has been running fine, plugs look great after running it on the water all day...

only issue i have is that it always wants to die after sitting for a couple of hours...runs fine while hot, but if it has sat for a hour or two, it bogs and shuts off under throttle unless you ease into it, and thats after idling for a while...

what does this mean?
 
[QUOTE
I was not aware of these a-pump grey lines and i never replaced them...after removing them today, i noticed this little nipple in line..i cleaned it as well...do i just place it inline again ? it just seemed to be sitting inline...what size is this line? 1/8in?[/QUOTE]
8.jpg



Oops I dont recall this part when I changed lines. Is it needed. Maybe thats why mine doesnt start right away. Where does this go?
 
That was on my accelerator pump fuel lines...i believe it was between the end fitting and the green check valve on this picture

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b334/smokymance/b4c4b6b0.jpg

BTW
i was this video today of this jet ski on youtube...at exactly 13 seconds you hear like a metal tingling around sounding noise from the exhaust...from what i remember, mine never used to do it...now its more obvious...anyone have any idea what it is?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&v=yBtMYWJiBHg&NR=1
 
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