1997 SPX exhaust issues.

[ocallaghand]

So besides having a hole in that small section of hose, I've also removed the larger hose from the water box on my 1997 SPX to the thru hull due to it being really soft. Someone said the hole in the small section of hose is due to too much heat. Could this be true? How is exhaust cooled prior to the waterbox? I've had no other symptoms of overheating. Photos attached.

 

[racerxxx]

That black water regulator on the water box injects water into the main pipe which cools the exhaust and keeps that rubber coupler surviving. So, pop the clip and check the water regulator, I'll bet there is a hole in the rubber diaphragm from the metal clip under it. You can get a replacement and most people use cable tie to replace the metal clip. Just clip the extra of and I file the sharp edges. That hoot exhaust will also collapse the tube from the water box to the outlet.

 

[ocallaghand]

That black water regulator on the water box injects water into the main pipe which cools the exhaust and keeps that rubber coupler surviving. So, pop the clip and check the water regulator, I'll bet there is a hole in the rubber diaphragm from the metal clip under it. You can get a replacement and most people use cable tie to replace the metal clip. Just clip the extra of and I file the sharp edges. That hoot exhaust will also collapse the tube from the water box to the outlet.

Thanks, I'll have a look in the morning.

 

[ocallaghand]

That black water regulator on the water box injects water into the main pipe which cools the exhaust and keeps that rubber coupler surviving. So, pop the clip and check the water regulator, I'll bet there is a hole in the rubber diaphragm from the metal clip under it. You can get a replacement and most people use cable tie to replace the metal clip. Just clip the extra of and I file the sharp edges. That hoot exhaust will also collapse the tube from the water box to the outlet.

Ok so I couldn't wait till tomorrow. The water regulator injects water before the little rubber coupler? I can't see how. Also, I can't reuse the clip on there right now? I fail to see how cable ties would hold it down again. I've attached a pic of the regulator.
Thanks in advance.

 

[racerxxx]

Ok, Let me re-explain.


Pop the clip to get the top off, there is a spring under there so be careful. You are going to put that back on at re-assembly time.

With that off you can pull straight up on the bellow assembly and remove it. Once removed look at the under side and you will see a metal spring clip, it will be rusty and where the ends are probably have a hole poked in the underside of the bellow. That is the one you're going to replace with a cable tie.

Ok, on to the water injection. First....that grey water line going into the water regulator is smoked and needs to be replaced too. It has collapsed from the heat. The line above that is a soft black rubber line, follow it to the exhaust pipe up front. That is where the water is injected INTERNALLY into the pipe cooling the hot exhaust gasses thus allowing the rubber coupler to survive. With that grey line being melted you were not injecting water into the pipe OR the water box which casued the other hose to go bad as well. So, you need to investigate the water regulator.




Follow the bright blue line

Here is what you will probably see when you pull the water regulator apart

 

[ocallaghand]

Thanks a ton!

 

[ocallaghand]

Here is what I saw. No visible hole but the screw at the bottom of the valve was tight and the red cap thing was all the way down. The gray fuel line was partially twisted but not collapsed.

 

[racerxxx]

Remove the rusty clamp, and the upper "hose clamp" from the rubber bellow. Clean the bellow and "roll" the bellow where the "tabs" were on the rusty clamp and look really close. 9/10 times it pokes a hole in the bellow but you need to roll it to see it. Let's hope it didn't. replace the rusty clamp with a cable tie and replace the grey line with a piece of 1/4" fuel line. Blow thru the line that feeds the pipe (the upper on off the water regulator) and make sure it's clear and not blocked.

 

[ocallaghand]

Remove the rusty clamp, and the upper "hose clamp" from the rubber bellow. Clean the bellow and "roll" the bellow where the "tabs" were on the rusty clamp and look really close. 9/10 times it pokes a hole in the bellow but you need to roll it to see it. Let's hope it didn't. replace the rusty clamp with a cable tie and replace the grey line with a piece of 1/4" fuel line. Blow thru the line that feeds the pipe (the upper on off the water regulator) and make sure it's clear and not blocked.

Ok will do all that, so thank you again. What about the red cap.on the valve cover? Leave it all the way in? Also is there anything I can use for the coupler between pipe and water box without having to order it online? Also, is there a way to.test the regulator once all put back together?

 

[ocallaghand]

Ok kept the 97 colors and fashioned the new clamp from a pink zip tie. No holes in diaphram. Reset red cap to 3 complete turns out as per Dr. Honda. Went to the parts store for new hose and wifey dropped my t adapter........lost it. New one on order .

I was thinking of hooking up to hose once all said and done and testing wcv by leaving hose off of wcv to.see if there is any output while idling. Of course only for a short bit.

Also ordered two new exhaust couplers.

 

[ocallaghand]

Remove the rusty clamp, and the upper "hose clamp" from the rubber bellow. Clean the bellow and "roll" the bellow where the "tabs" were on the rusty clamp and look really close. 9/10 times it pokes a hole in the bellow but you need to roll it to see it. Let's hope it didn't. replace the rusty clamp with a cable tie and replace the grey line with a piece of 1/4" fuel line. Blow thru the line that feeds the pipe (the upper on off the water regulator) and make sure it's clear and not blocked.

racerxxx I added the new supply hose in place of the old gray one and blew through it. Since I already melted the exhaust coupler and am waiting for the new one, I was able to feel my breath as I blew into the regulator come out of the water box....so that's good. I then disconnected the hose on the top of the regulator and blew through that too. Again, since the coupler is missing I was able to feel my breath through the tuned pipe.....so that's good too. Now for my last test once I get it all buttoned up again will be to drop the ass end into the water while on the trailer and see if water comes out of the smaller hose to the tuned pipe.

 

[racerxxx]

Also, check for leaks coming out of the valve cap are too.

 

[ocallaghand]

Also, check for leaks coming out of the valve cap are too.

Will do. I honestly think there is something up with my wcv as there is silicone around the spot where it threads in from the previous owner. May have to buy a new water box but not there yet.

 

[mikidymac]

I would save that waterbox as they typically don't go bad and the 1997 SPX is the one everyone wants.

 

[ocallaghand]

I would save that waterbox as they typically don't go bad and the 1997 SPX is the one everyone wants.

I hear ya, totally forgot about that, thanks! What I am more concerned with is why the previous owner thought he needed to add a silicone type sealant around the threaded part that joins the water valve and the water box. I am going to see if I can test it on trailer with it running prior to taking it out for any other sessions. If it holds up, I will try and unscrewing it in the off-season to see what type of issue I am working with on the threaded portion.

 

[mikidymac]

Probably because most of them leak from age. Almost everyone I have seen I pull the hose, give them 1 full turn and they stop leaking at the pipe threads into the waterbox.

 

[ocallaghand]

Probably because most of them leak from age. Almost everyone I have seen I pull the hose, give them 1 full turn and they stop leaking at the pipe threads into the waterbox.

So if that is the case, a little teflon tape and screwed in tight should do the trick? I don't mind inspecting it after every ride. How do threads come lose on their own?

 

[racerxxx]

Well, is it loose on the fitting to the plastic housing? I'm betting yes. If so, the hot exhaust melted the housing thus the threads are loose. The brass fitting acts like a heat sink.

 

[ocallaghand]

So a new valve may be in order? I am going to try and get by with this for a month before putting her to bed for the season.

 

[ocallaghand]

I received the new exhaust coupler and exhaust hose from WB and buttoned it all back up. I also removed the old gray line to the WCV. I can blow through all of the hoses without impediment and have left the hose running to the tuned pipe off. I am going to drop her ass in the water tonight to see if I get water flow from that hose while she is still on the trailer. If so, zip tie it back on, and go out for a rip.

Thanks for your help, Racerxxx