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1997 Seadoo Speedster

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mikeal71

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Found a posting on here a while back for the wear ring replacements and i'm having a problem finding it again the fellow had a posting showing step by step instructions could some one help me or at least point me in the right direction.
Thanks Mikeal
 
Wear Ring replacement

Got the pump pulled and everything looks like is good what else should i be looking for that would cause the cavation problem, there is about .04 clearance in the wear ring the wear ring it self looks a little rough but no major scuffs only on rope though it maybe. Any help on this matter would be greatly appreciated.
 
The carbon seal can cause cavataion to the point that you won't move. Also, if the ride/pump shoe isn't sealed... it will draw air.
 
Not trying to hyjack this thread but this is exactly why I joined this site. I also have a cavitation problem and am going to change the wear ring as soon as I read enough to make me comfortable with the process. How long does it usually take to do this, is this a large project or can it be done in an afternoon?
 
I'm going to change the one in my boat soon, and I will post up a "how to" as soon as I do.

but depending on your abillities... it should take about an hour.
 
That’s not bad at all; I think I will be ordering a couple of wear rings and impellers. Any recommendations on impellers, I'm not that concerned with making it go faster, I just use the speedster to pull the kids on a tube and to and to ride the family around.
 
re

That’s not bad at all; I think I will be ordering a couple of wear rings and impellers. Any recommendations on impellers, I'm not that concerned with making it go faster, I just use the speedster to pull the kids on a tube and to and to ride the family around.

The solas concord is your torque prop, good for towing. Not about skat track.
 
Great thread, the only question I have is do you have to take it to the next level to replace the carbon seal, and where is it located? If I am going to pull the pump I would rather replace anything that could be causing the problem while it's apart.
 
Great thread, the only question I have is do you have to take it to the next level to replace the carbon seal, and where is it located? If I am going to pull the pump I would rather replace anything that could be causing the problem while it's apart.

Nope... no "next level" thing. It will add 10 minutes if the stainless ring isn't seized.


OK... BEFORE you remove the pump, go into the engine compartment, and remove the gray cover behind the engine. You will see the carbon seal. Slide the stainless ring toward the transom, and remove the metal C-clip. (If it has never been done, there may be a rubber O-ring on the shaft) This will take some pressure since the boot on the carbon ring is stiff, and the seals in the stainless ring are going to be hard. (a little oil under the stainless ring will help)

Once the clip or O-ring is off the drive shaft, remove the clamp on the PTO boot.

Now, do the wear ring.

While the pump is out... your drive shaft will now be free to slide out. With it out, replace the carbon ring, and the 2 o-rings inside the stainless ring.

Reassemble.

If you had an O-ring holding the stainless ring onto the driveshaft... throw it out, and buy a metal c-clip.


Pretty simple.
 
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