1997 Sea-Doo GTX. Push start/stop button, starter relay clicks, but won’t engage starter. If I jump the starter relay, it will engage the starter and turn over and start. Here’s my dilemma: I’ve already gone through three starter relays—the original starter relay, and then two aftermarket starter relays. And I just ordered another starter relay from Amazon. What am I missing? Is it just cheap starter relays, or is there something else going on? All my connections are good, all my grounds are good. Like I said, if I use my starter relay jumper, the engine will crank over and start. But if I don’t use it and just push the start button, the starter relay clicks, but won’t engage the contacts to engage the starter. Is my start/stop switch malfunctioning, as there’s not enough current being sent to the primary windings on the starter relay to engage the contacts? Again, looking for some fresh ideas."
1997 Seadoo GTX Start Relay
- Thread starter Solo2882
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artr
Well-Known Member
I think it would be worthwhile to check the ground connection (small black wire) at the base of the start solenoid (next to the yellow/red stripe wire. It runs to a bolt at the base of the ignition coil that has other ground wires on it. That bolt and the connectors on it tend to corrode and should be wire brushed an cleaned up and reconnected. If that does not fix anything then you can disconnet the yellow/red stripe wire from the base of the start solenoid and carefully try jumpering that input at the base of the solenoid with 12V from the battery to see if it then cranks reliably.
The only thing I could think of that would whine would be the starter if the cranking voltage dropped to where the bendix would disengage from the engine but the starter was still turning.
The only thing I could think of that would whine would be the starter if the cranking voltage dropped to where the bendix would disengage from the engine but the starter was still turning.
artr
Well-Known Member
Additionally, you can statically check any of the start relays out of the ski by applying 12V and ground to the base of the relay where the small yellow/red stripe and black wires connect. You should measure 0 ohms (short circuit) across the top 2 large connections on the relay when 12V is applied and an open circuit when the 12V is removed.
Afternoon installing new solenoid. Would crank over just fine. All the wires in the black box other has been cleaned or replaced including grounds. The reason the engine would stop suddenly was because it was hydro locked on one cylinder. I'm having over fueling problems. Separate issue lol.
Had ski running this morning and idling at 3000 out of water with water hose running. Need to get in the lake to tune cards. I think it was a bad connection over by the gray box upfront with dialectic grease. but it also could have something to do with bad shitty quality starter solenoids. like I said this is the third solenoid I’ve put in it since I purchased a machine last year and restored it.
Had ski running this morning and idling at 3000 out of water with water hose running. Need to get in the lake to tune cards. I think it was a bad connection over by the gray box upfront with dialectic grease. but it also could have something to do with bad shitty quality starter solenoids. like I said this is the third solenoid I’ve put in it since I purchased a machine last year and restored it.
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