1997 Sea-Doo GTS carb settings

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DomerD26

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Good evening all, I recently picked up a 97 Sea-Doo GTS with the 717 engine from a co-workers dad. it sat in his shop for about 3 years, so I replaced the all of the Tempo lines and rebuilt the carb. I'm trying to set the needles but seeing conflicting information, so hopefully somebody can help. In the shop manual it says to set the low speed screw 1 3/4 turns out and not to adjust the high speed screw, but doesn't say what it should be set at. I've seen 1 1/4 turns for the L.S. and 0 for the H.S. in many forums but most sound like they are running twin carbs. Seadoosource.com says it should be 1 turn out on the L.S. and 1 1/2 on the H.S.

Side not: has anyone ever got an engine from seadooengineshop.com? Pretty sure the inner crank seals are bad, oil will pour out of the exhaust after it sits. I installed a shut-off valve in the supply line just to keep the tank from draining for now but thinking about getting one of their premium 717 engines for $900 this winter and putting in. The fact the offer a 2-year no fault warranty is kinda the selling point on it to me.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated!!
 
I would suggest staying away from SES and FullBore as they have a really bad reputation here. Their work is good but communication and return times are horrendous. Like months or more to get an engine back or even longer.

Follow the Seadoo source specs, follow my carb rebuild thread exactly and only genuine Mikuni parts.
 
mikidymac said:
I would suggest staying away from SES and FullBore as they have a really bad reputation here. Their work is good but communication and return times are horrendous. Like months or more to get an engine back or even longer.

Follow the Seadoo source specs, follow my carb rebuild thread exactly and only genuine Mikuni parts.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the quick reply. Is there a company that you would recommend?

I will follow seadoo sources specs and see how it goes, just didn't want to burn the engine up by not setting them right.
 
SBT has great customer service but are not as high of quality but should be ok for a stock engine
 
SBT engines are fine but don’t use any of their other stuff like carb kits or fuel selector.
 
The "standard" engine has a 1 year no fault warnenty the "premium" engine has a 2 year no fault warnenty. The only difference between the two is the warenty
 
So I found the technical data in the back of the shop manual and it says 1 3/4 turns out for the L.S. and 0 for the H.S. So since Seadoo source and the Sea-Doo shop manual contradict each other, who should I listen to? Screenshot_20200816-134650.png
 
You can’t hurt anything being a little rich. I would try the richer setting first.
 
mikidymac said:
You can’t hurt anything being a little rich. I would try the richer setting first.
Click to expand...
Sounds good! Thank you for the help. I ordered a digital tach that's supposed to be here Tuesday and going to take it out for the first time Wednesday after work to test it. I'll post my results afterwards.
 
So I took the ski out this morning and it took about 4-5 minutes of cranking before it would start, then it would only idle for about 30-45 seconds and dies. takes about 10 seconds or so of cranking before it will fire back up but does the same thing again. I tried adjusting the carb from Seadoo Sources specs to the specs in the book but it seemed to make it worse. Pulling the choke didn't seem to make much difference, maybe caused it to die a little sooner but not much. Seems like a fuel starvation issue to me. Any thoughts or suggestions?
 
I’m really leaning towards fuel pump issue. Just put it on the hose and pulled my fuel return line off. While cranking and while it runs for a few seconds before it dies there is nothing coming from the return. Pulled the supply line off to pressure test the carb again and there is gas in the line. Could I put an electric low pressure(2.5-4 psi) inline pump on it? After messing with the hoses, I’ve pulled all 3 off and put the supply and pulse back on, I started getting a stream out of the return again and it isn’t dying.
 
I didn't try it with premix but I pulled all the lines off the carb to pressure test it and when I put them back on it started working again. So my concern is reliability on the water. It was running fine on the hose a few days before I took it out. something happened between then and getting to the lake to cause the carb to not get fuel. all the fuel lines are brand new black fuel line
 
Generally if there is a problem it's most likely to come out when you put it in the water ie add load to the engine. Even if your ski won't start in the water chances are it starts fine outside the water.

Do you have a pressure tester of any sort? You need to check to make sure your newly rebuilt carb doesn't leak and the needle pops at the right pressure.
 
I have a radiator pressure tester but it only reads up to 30 psi. I used that to check for leaks and made sure it wasn’t leaking around the seat and was able to make it pop off above 30 but I can’t say exactly what it popped off at. Before I took it out I also did a pressure check on the supply line. I pulled the supply hose off at the tank and plugged it and applied pressure on the carb end and it held pressure. I put the old spring back in because I looked at it and the new one closer and noticed the new one was a little longer.
 
I figured out that the pulse line at the carb keeps getting messed up. Not sure if it's because oil gets into the line from the engine or due to heat or what. going to try some PVC hose instead of the rubber fuel line and see if that does the trick
 
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