1997 GTX won't start

[dgoodwin10]

First let me say thanks for all the information on this fourm. It has helped me alot!

Heres the story on this ski: I was surfing craigslist one day and found a '97 GTX in great condition with a cracked water jacket and a trailer. Guy was asking $900. I made a phone call and the guy was a boat mechanic looking to unload a project. The water jacket had been cracked due to not winterizing it, which he admitted he knew better. I get the ski home and crank it and it ran fine. After tearing into the motor (and hours of poking around this fourm) I discovered that on top of the crack, the pistons and walls are scarred bad enough to warrant new pistons and boring out the heads. The crack was welded by a local shop and I added JB weld to the inside of the jug for peace of mind. I replaced the OEM pistons with new SBT ones that are .5mm larger. I also replaced all the fuel lines and drained all the gas out and put new in.

I have everything put back together and now I cannot get any spark. The gauges boot up like they should and the engine turns over fine. I know the spark plugs are good. I checked all the fuses and everything seems good. Tomorrow I am going to go over it with a voltage meter to see if I can pinpoint the problem. I found a thread on here describing how to go about that. I have a few concerns. The buzzer decided to act up this afternoon. It still beeps twice when the key is in, but VERY faintly. Also, I accidentally hooked the black wire on the rear electrical box to the positive terminal. When it wouldn't turn over, I realized my bad mistake and swapped it. What could be causing the lack of spark? What specific places do I need to check? Any and all feedback is appreciated!

 

[jhjesse]

First let me say thanks for all the information on this fourm. It has helped me alot!

Heres the story on this ski: I was surfing craigslist one day and found a '97 GTX in great condition with a cracked water jacket and a trailer. Guy was asking $900. I made a phone call and the guy was a boat mechanic looking to unload a project. The water jacket had been cracked due to not winterizing it, which he admitted he knew better. I get the ski home and crank it and it ran fine. After tearing into the motor (and hours of poking around this fourm) I discovered that on top of the crack, the pistons and walls are scarred bad enough to warrant new pistons and boring out the heads. The crack was welded by a local shop and I added JB weld to the inside of the jug for peace of mind. I replaced the OEM pistons with new SBT ones that are .5mm larger. I also replaced all the fuel lines and drained all the gas out and put new in.

I have everything put back together and now I cannot get any spark. The gauges boot up like they should and the engine turns over fine. I know the spark plugs are good. I checked all the fuses and everything seems good. Tomorrow I am going to go over it with a voltage meter to see if I can pinpoint the problem. I found a thread on here describing how to go about that. I have a few concerns. The buzzer decided to act up this afternoon. It still beeps twice when the key is in, but VERY faintly. Also, I accidentally hooked the black wire on the rear electrical box to the positive terminal. When it wouldn't turn over, I realized my bad mistake and swapped it. What could be causing the lack of spark? What specific places do I need to check? Any and all feedback is appreciated!

In the rear electrical box just below the ignition coil is a 15 amp fuse.
If the fuse is still good then replace the coil.
Beepers are known to go bad. Not a big deal. If it is a big deal then replace with one from radio shack and mount inside the hull to prevent it from getting wet.

 

[dgoodwin10]

The fuse is fine. Is there a way to check the coil with a voltage tester before I go pull the trigger on a new one?

 

[Minnetonka4me]

Did you ever crack open the stator housing when the engine was rebuilt?

 

[dgoodwin10]

No I didn't. All that I did was pull the jugs.

 

[Minnetonka4me]

I would pull it off just to make sure its all clean and dry. You will also be able to check the Pick up which is known to break off, which would cause the no spark. I put a light bead of RTV on the cover when I put it back on to help keep water out, along with the starter.


It not a real fun job to do with the pipe on, but if you prop the motor up on some 2x4s and take the front mount out you can get it out.

 

[seadooya]

first, REMOVE the raves. You need to "relieve" them, before/if not already, catch the ring lip, and ruin ur new topend

Locate the coil (inside the ebox), and unplug the white wire. While cranking, use a test light and see if it lights up. If so, remove the plug boots, and clip 1/4in off the lines. If it doesn't light up, remove the mag cover and inspect the stator assy and its wires and the pick-up bracket.

Its possible, with reversing the wire, you could've damaged the mpem.

 

[dgoodwin10]

first, REMOVE the raves. You need to "relieve" them, before/if not already, catch the ring lip, and ruin ur new topend

Locate the coil (inside the ebox), and unplug the white wire. While cranking, use a test light and see if it lights up. If so, remove the plug boots, and clip 1/4in off the lines. If it doesn't light up, remove the mag cover and inspect the stator assy and its wires and the pick-up bracket.

Its possible, with reversing the wire, you could've damaged the mpem.

The valves have been trimmed. I will go check the coil and go from there. A noob question, but if the MPEM is damaged, would that not affect the operation of the entire electrical system? Also, why would a fuse not have blown when the wire was crossed?

 

[Minnetonka4me]

Its not likely...but anyone that works on seadoos awhile has seen some crazy chit with the electronics.

 

[dgoodwin10]

first, REMOVE the raves. You need to "relieve" them, before/if not already, catch the ring lip, and ruin ur new topend

Locate the coil (inside the ebox), and unplug the white wire. While cranking, use a test light and see if it lights up. If so, remove the plug boots, and clip 1/4in off the lines. If it doesn't light up, remove the mag cover and inspect the stator assy and its wires and the pick-up bracket.

Its possible, with reversing the wire, you could've damaged the mpem.

I have voltage to the white wire. I tried to remove the boot and couldnt. Where is the 1/4" I am supposed to take off? I am a little confused on that

 

[Superneil018]

I had the same scenario nearly and ended up having to replace the mpem.

 

[Minnetonka4me]

the spark plug caps twist off...then cut a 1/4 off the wires and reconnect the plug boots.

 

[Ninetok]

Check the ground wire coming from the rear Ebox to the battery. Even if it looks good check it with ohm meter. Many have had the same problem the wire breaks inside hooking and unhooking the battery. Mine did it. And check the pickup bracket as the post above say's seen that to many times.