1997 GTi Fuel Gauge issue (F1 fuse mod completed and ohm check on sender)

[LawrenceBMX2]

I have a 1997 GTi that I pulled the fuel sending unit out of the other day. Performed the F1 fuse mod thing by removing the fuse and soldering across the terminals. After this was completed, I was getting a reading of 0.2-88.6 ohms. I Plastic welded the opening cut in the sender tube, sealed with seal all, waited for six hours to cure and re-inserted in the fuel tank. Also, while the sending unit was out I removed the float to make sure both magnets were attached (which they were). The float is the newer (I believe) white float.

After the sending unit was re-installed and everything connected, I again checked at the plug and MPEM for resistance. At each location I was getting 36.9 ohms, leading me to believe the float is actually floating. This also seems logical since visually the tank is slightly more than half a tank.

Also, I am getting 12V at the gauges (purple and black wires) and the fuses were just replaced with new ones (just to be sure that wasn't the issue for some reason). I'm still not getting anything on the fuel gauge. The light comes on for the oil light when the key is inserted at start up and as of today when I took it out the speedometer is working. Anyone have any ideas on fixing the fuel gauge from here? I'm pretty baffled.

Thanks for any and all input

 

[gman1103]

There should be a plug that connects the gauge to the sending unit--did you disconnect the plug and jump the gauge side--this will make the gauge show full, if not you have a bad fuel gauge

 

[LawrenceBMX2]

There should be a plug that connects the gauge to the sending unit--did you disconnect the plug and jump the gauge side--this will make the gauge show full, if not you have a bad fuel gauge

So to do this I would disconnect where the sending unit plugs in and jumper across the connection that goes to the MPEM (essentially connecting the pink and pink/black wires together). Then press the start/stop button with the safety lanyard removed to active the timer, if the fuel gauge goes to full it is working and if it stays at empty then the gauge is faulty?

 

[gman1103]

on my 1997 xp--I disconnected the plug, jumped the gauge side of the plug and then attached the lanyard.

 

[LawrenceBMX2]

Well I checked again today, 36.9 ohms at the plug now and 27 ohms at the MPEM plug. Not sure what's going on. Guess I'm going to try getting a new gauge tomorrow. Oh, and when connecting the pink wire to the pink/black wire on the MPEM (Gauge) side, the needle does not go to full when started/running.

 

[LawrenceBMX2]

I'm really stumped on this. When I wire the pink wire to the pink/black wire it should read a full tank of gas on the gauge, when I do this the gauge still reads, empty. The float is floating in fuel, I'm am getting ohm readings at the MPEM plug. Bought a new fuel gauge, wired it in, still nothing. Is there some way to test the pink wire or blue wires going to the gauge. What are they suppose to read?

 

[gman1103]

time for the experts!!!!!!!!

 

[LawrenceBMX2]

I have continuity on the pink wire going from the MPEM to the fuel gauge. Testing at 27 ohms of resistance and and .2 ohms resistance (from the fuel sending unit) gives the same value of 4.68 V on the pink wire, also when jumping the wire to 12V it still stays at 'E'. Can anyone with a working fuel gauge check to see what the voltage value is on the pink wire of their fuel gauge? Not really sure how this gauge even works. Thought it was through a voltage change but at 4.68 V on the pink wire of the gauge and at 12V it stays on 'E'.

 

[bell99man]

I have the same ski...I'll check tomorrow

Kevin

 

[bell99man]

From the 'hot' or male plug where the sender attaches I have 4.6v measuring across the plug. You are correct, it measures a change in voltage produced by the float magnet activating reed switches on the board. Double check all your plugs and connections. It should be reading. Are there more than two wires at the gauge? Recheck how they are connected.

 

[LawrenceBMX2]

From the 'hot' or male plug where the sender attaches I have 4.6v measuring across the plug. You are correct, it measures a change in voltage produced by the float magnet activating reed switches on the board. Double check all your plugs and connections. It should be reading. Are there more than two wires at the gauge? Recheck how they are connected.

Thanks for checking. I'm a little confused on where you took this 4.6V measurement though. That seems like the measurement I took on the pink wire that goes to the fuel gauge (pin 1-4 on the MPEM). I get no voltage measured across the Pink, Pink/Black wires on the male connection of the fuel sender unit. On the female end (connected directly to the fuel sending unit) is where I'm measuring a variable resistance (Currently 46.9 ohms).

In other words there are four wires that go out of the MPEM to the Fuel gauge:
Purple (Pin 1-1)
Black (Pin 1-3)
Pink (Pin 1-4)
Blue (Pin 1-6)

When I put the positive lead on the Pink wire at the gauge (Pin 1-4) and the negative lead on the Black wire at the gauge (Pin 1-3), I get 4.68V.

Also, here's a link to the shop manual where I'm getting these pin-outs from. Section 13 is the Wiring Diagram for the 1997 SeaDoo GTi.

 

[bell99man]

I did not pull the gauge. I unplugged the two wire connector to the sending unit. I checked for voltage across those pins in that boot or plug, not the one coming out of the unit but the one it plugs into. You might also look at all the female plugs and see if any appear too fat to make contact. I have seen a few folks mention that as a fix for various wiring problems on here. If so, just bend it a little so that it is not as round. Use needle nose with a slight squeeze on the hollow metal contact tube.

I could not view that link for some reason.

Kevin

 

[LawrenceBMX2]

I did not pull the gauge. I unplugged the two wire connector to the sending unit. I checked for voltage across those pins in that boot or plug, not the one coming out of the unit but the one it plugs into. You might also look at all the female plugs and see if any appear too fat to make contact. I have seen a few folks mention that as a fix for various wiring problems on here. If so, just bend it a little so that it is not as round. Use needle nose with a slight squeeze on the hollow metal contact tube.

I could not view that link for some reason.

Kevin

Link was a little screwy. Here's the schematic. I've gone through and tightened up all of the connections with a set of needle nose pliers related to the fuel gauge. Guess I will have to double check why I'm not getting voltage on pins 1-10(Pink/Black) and 11(Pink). I'm assuming you're testing with Pink as (+) and Pink/Black as (-) with your Volt-meter?

 

[LawrenceBMX2]

Got it!. Pink/Black coming out of the MPEM was bad. New connection and gauge is working. Thank you very much for your help bell99man!

 

[bell99man]

Awesome! Glad you found that 'cause I was really scratching my head. How did you fix it?

 

[LawrenceBMX2]

Awesome! Glad you found that 'cause I was really scratching my head. How did you fix it?

The pink/black wire wasn't getting a good connection at the MPEM. Don't know how many times I probably crimped that thing down to try to get a more solid connection but that combined with scraping out the female end of the connection with a pick finally seemed to do the job. Should have known, it's almost always a loose ground that's the problem.

 

[bell99man]

Well, now you have fuel readings...does it beep beep like it should? You're looking forward to the next launch I'm sure.

 

[LawrenceBMX2]

Yeah it's always done the two beeps when the key is inserted, just never has had the gauges working. As long as it runs without dying this time and the gauges are still working I'll be pretty happy. Last time I had it out, the thing kept dying anytime you tried to really accelerate. Switched over to the reserve tank and the problem went away. After cleaning out all the gunk from the fuel filter, hopefully it'll all work as it should on the main tank next time out. :cheers:

 

[bell99man]

If your fuel filter was that dirty, you should really look over your fuel system; lines, sellector, carbs and the tank. Have you read up on here about the gray tempo fuel lines? Your carbs have filters in them as well. If any blockage exists anywhere your ride could be starving for fuel, overheat and seize. That would pretty much kill a Saturday. Hope none of this applies to your machine and good luck!

Kevin

 

[LawrenceBMX2]

Tank is clean, fuel selector valve is good. The carb filter is getting cleaned tomorrow and the fuel lines are getting replaced. Making sure it's ready for the weekend. Going to try wakeboarding behind it. Ought to be interesting. I've never wakeboarded before and my girl has never pulled somebody. Probably doing a lot of swimming this weekend.

 

[bell99man]

It's hotter than hell down here so that sounds like a great weekend to me!