1996 xp bogging on low rpm but runs fine on high rpm

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I am no expert by any means, and everything I know has come from the people on this forum.

Generally, if Miki says don't do something, don't do it. He is a huge wealth of knowledge which clearly comes from experience. I would keep his suggestions in high regard. Most of the time he is saving you from a mistake he has probably made in the past.

We all know the frustrations of just wanting to get the ski on the water and have some fun, but if you have new springs ordered it really might be the best option to wait for them.

By stretching the springs you currently have you have changed the spring rate and very well may have made the spring which was originally a static spring into a dynamic spring. though it's showing up ok on the pop-off test on the bench you have no idea what may happen to it during operation, and ultimately no way to tell if things are going south with the spring once the carb is installed on the motor.

In fact, when you head towards a lean scenario the ski will feel better than it ever has and you will be having too much fun to get off and double-check it before a piston ring seizes. I discovered this the hard way with my gtx a few weeks ago.
 
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okay, then i'll wait for the new springs. i just think its a little weird that it should make a difference if the pop off pressure is right.

i saw this video and maybe it threw me off a bit?
he says its okay to cut and stretch and some other forums too but this one says not to.
 
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We all know the frustrations of just wanting to get the ski on the water and have some fun, but if you have new springs ordered it really might be the best option to wait for them.

By stretching the springs you currently have you have changed the spring rate and very well may have made the spring which was originally a static spring into a dynamic spring. though it's showing up ok on the pop-off test on the bench you have no idea what may happen to it during operation, and ultimately no way to tell if things are going south with the spring once the carb is installed on the motor

very true, i dont have them ordered but im going to order now tonight.
 
does anyone know which springs i need i think miki said some time ago i needed black 80grams but i want to know for sure before i order.
i think its black 80gram but i could be wrong.
 
Yeah I'm sure there is a lot of counterpoints to the ones made on this forum, but when its boiled down everyone on here (especially people like Miki and Dr. Honda) are strong advocates of keeping certain things the way they were intended from the factory. Which I'm sure, in the end, comes down to them having experience with not following this thought process at one point or another.

The way I see it the main concern should always be "will my ghetto fix work? or will it cost me another huge chunk of change when something goes wrong?

In my personal experience such as the issue with my GTX I mentioned before one small oversight can spoil it all. I went from having a perfectly functioning ski to having a ski that will no longer run without me dropping another 300 dollars on the top end.
 
woah thats a big yaiks, will wait for the springs :cool:

i know that seadoosource have the factory spring but if i google the number that is there every single spring for mikuni carb comes up, for me atleast :/
 
Yeah, I see that issue now. I looked on one of the parts sites to see if it listed the spring's weight. They do not and were out of stock lol.

I will let someone more knowledgeable on the subject answer that one for you.
 
So.....
1. Pop-off pressure it just a test and not how the carb actually performs when the engine is running.
2. By stretching, crushing, cutting or modifying the spring in any way you can nail the pop-off but you have changed the entire characteristic and tension of that spring.

Basically at one point your modified spring can pop at the correct pressure but you have changed how the needle opens and meters fuel throughout it's operating range and can easily let in too much or too little fuel through the metering needle at any given throttle position.

Let me stress, that pop-off is only a test and not how the carb actually functions when the diaphragm is actually pushing on the arm against the spring.
 
1996 XP for sure uses the 80 gram Black springs.
Nick and Jess at Westside Powersports have them and can overnight also.
 
Overnight to norway may be a little hard to do but maybe in 2-3 days that would maybe be possible, do you know the price of the spring with nick and Jess? Can get them at amazon for 4 dollars each. And thank you for a more «filled» answer? Idk how to put it
 
Oh, I didn't realize you were in Norway. Make sense that you don't want to wait for shipping lol.

Nick and Jess over at westside are awesome resources. they will give you a great price on everything.

I wouldn't concern yourself too much with the cost of the springs though. Following suit with the rest of the carb parts, you only want to use genuine Mikuni parts. Although there are some re-salers that offer genuine parts on amazon there also a TON of knockoffs.

The biggest concern is that you don't get hoo-doo'd and sent some knockoffs under the preface of them being genuine.
 
I ordered at Osdparts.com, and i didnt realize that they were on vacation but oh well, summer is over in norway. Just hope it gets here in time so i dont forget about what to check for and that stuff lol
 
Oh i bet there are lol, if im going to rebuild the carbs in the future i will order kits from osdparts or an site that i and other know have genuine Mikuni kits
 
I'm no expert but my 03 GTI was doing the same thing. Kinda tricky to start and bogged down untill I got it over the hump. Switched to 91 octane gas and haven't had a issue since. Might be worth a try if your not running it already.
 
at my gas station there is only 95. but the spring inside my carb was cut so its defently the problem or atleast one of them haha.
 
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The octane of the fuel has no bearing on performance, running or hesitation. Plain old 87 is all you need and is what is specified for your engines.

If changing fuel made any difference it’s only because the previous fuel was bad.
 
Okay now i have changed the springs and MAG side is around 20psi pop off and PTO side is around 15psi and both doesnt hold pressure, like its bubbling, do i need new needle and seats?
 
i put wd-40 on the needle and seat and it poped at 15psi and bubbling after the pop not so much with Mag side but a little bubbling there too.
 
A RAVE opening later than the other one would stumble in the mid range but adding choke for a sec sure sounds like fuel delivery, what's the skis history since you acquired it, always had this problem or it started after you fixed another issue or.... ? And you are certain everything such as water hose routing, clean elect grounds and good contact at all connectors etc are correct? Do both plugs look the same re: wet, dry, dark.....? Got to find one thing that's different, one clue to give some direction.
 
If i dont Get it to start and pull the plugs they are wet so i think the cut spring gave it too much fuel so its drowning. Ive always had this problem but the mid - high end is good now.
 
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