1996 Speedster Restoration

[etemplet]

I posed on this boat in Dec. 2021 and now the thread is closed. I posted right after I bought it and it had no fire on the port engine. I was able to pick up another MPEM so I'm thinkin I should have a good chance of resolving that issue. The right engine is running. I have (2) completely rebuild 717s that I'm gonna swap out. The boat is next in the mission queue and I'm starting this week. Seats look good. My son had one of these brand new in 1996. I don't know what the market will be on this. I may play with it a bit before I sell it. I thought the kids might want it but they don't. LOL I sure don't get these kids today.
"Here, you want this.... all rebuilt like new."
" Nah."

When I was young we'd have stampeeded for something like this. Oh well. I'm gonna try it out in a few places. Might be fun to own.

 

[Spider4real]

I personally think those boats are a blast and not as bad as everyone says they are. Give it a go and it might surprise you. Pack the cooler full of ice, food & drinks and have a chill day on the water. Hope you get her going

 

[burtshaver2021]

I agree, with the not getting kids today I mean. I can’t get my youngest son who is 15 to go out with us on the seadoo’s or the snowmobiles.

 

[etemplet]

I made a good move on this Speedster today. My wife helped me remove the engine cover. It will be much much easier to work on now. Gonna pull the engines tomorrow and clear her up a bit. I pulled the jet drives today and I like that they are easier to reach than the jet skis.

I'm gonna look around for some parts, cup holders and such. Is there any place I can find new parts like that?

 

[rusty nail]

i have not purchased these but found them a few years ago and made a note because i have a speedster needing them as well. better measure to make sure for fitment.

https://www.amazon.ca/NovelBee-Rece...ix=cups+holders+seadoo+sp,aps,191&sr=8-1&th=1

 

[etemplet]

I pulled the jet drives yesterday and the engine out today. I'm going into the CLEANING mode big time. Ski has been sitting for a year and the engine bay shows it's build up from years gone by. Lotta work to be done but it's gonna get better and better every day. I'm thinking about new graphics but that will be at the end. It was easier to work on than I thought once I pulled the engine cover.








Check this out for a rusted out engine pan. I have a lot of parts so I should be good.

 

[burtshaver2021]

I’m looking forward to following this thread, are the engines in need of rebuilding. You may end up really liking this boat.

 

[Michael Hunt]

Like you, I'm getting my 96 Speedster in shape after a 3 year hiatus. Thank goodness, it wasn't as grungy as your pictures illustrate.

I have had a hard time keeping engine bed plates from rusting. I have bought 2 sets over the years and had them powder coated and they still don't even last a year before showing signs of corrosion. I'm going to try epoxy paint next. I have a vintage 88 Kawasaki 650SX and the aftermarket made an aluminum engine plate for it. I wish I had one for the SeaDoo.

I've owned my Speedster from the early days, so it has a few hotrod pieces that aren't available any more.

1. Westcoast RS series replaceable dome heads.
2. Solas XO props.
3. Ocean Pro carbon fiber air filters.
4. Regular MSD plug boots, but with resistor plugs.
5. Bimini top.
6. Hydroturf.

I did swap out some aging parts while they were still available and I'm really glad I did as some stuff isn't available new anymore at any price.

The boat mostly sees lake use, but it has been in the Gulf on occasion. One of my old dream trips with the boat was to take it on the Bimini Road Rally. I'll post some inspirational photos tomorrow.

 

[etemplet]

I’m looking forward to following this thread, are the engines in need of rebuilding. You may end up really liking this boat.

I got TWO shiny rebuilt engines wating to be installed in this thing. I'm going through it like I do everything else. The bilge is gonna look great when I'm done. This is the GTX DI I'm finishing up on.

 

[etemplet]

Like you, I'm getting my 96 Speedster in shape after a 3 year hiatus. Thank goodness, it wasn't as grungy as your pictures illustrate.

I have had a hard time keeping engine bed plates from rusting. I have bought 2 sets over the years and had them powder coated and they still don't even last a year before showing signs of corrosion. I'm going to try epoxy paint next. I have a vintage 88 Kawasaki 650SX and the aftermarket made an aluminum engine plate for it. I wish I had one for the SeaDoo.

I've owned my Speedster from the early days, so it has a few hotrod pieces that aren't available any more.

1. Westcoast RS series replaceable dome heads.
2. Solas XO props.
3. Ocean Pro carbon fiber air filters.
4. Regular MSD plug boots, but with resistor plugs.
5. Bimini top.
6. Hydroturf.

I did swap out some aging parts while they were still available and I'm really glad I did as some stuff isn't available new anymore at any price.

The boat mostly sees lake use, but it has been in the Gulf on occasion. One of my old dream trips with the boat was to take it on the Bimini Road Rally. I'll post some inspirational photos tomorrow.

Yea this boat was worth the price of the trailer but it has the bimini... and the seats were in good shape so I bought it. Strange that you have such a problem with the engine plates. I'll have to look, I only noticed a problem with the one plate.

 

[etemplet]

I took the Speedster to the car wash today and $25+ in quarters and a couple hours later..... Much better.

 

[burtshaver2021]

I got TWO shiny rebuilt engines wating to be installed in this thing. I'm going through it like I do everything else. The bilge is gonna look great when I'm done. This is the GTX DI I'm finishing up on.

View attachment 62768

Oooo, Aaaaaa, those are purrty. ( I actually made those sounds ) Those are nice.

 

[Michael Hunt]

Here are a few photos of the boat while the carbs are being refreshed.



I did swap out the original steering wheel when the original got floppy. You can't really tell that I just replaced both steering cables (the new ones are corrugated grey instead of smooth black). I have a replacement fuel baffle, but I need to yank the ski pole first. Another week of pecking away and the engine compartment will be shipshape. The steering is so free now (it really glides!), I'm thinking of a steering damper.

 

[etemplet]

Here are a few photos of the boat while the carbs are being refreshed.

I did swap out the original steering wheel when the original got floppy. You can't really tell that I just replaced both steering cables (the new ones are corrugated grey instead of smooth black). I have a replacement fuel baffle, but I need to yank the ski pole first. Another week of pecking away and the engine compartment will be shipshape. The steering is so free now (it really glides!), I'm thinking of a steering damper.

Man that thing is obscenely CLEAN !!!! Does your boat have the seat that face backwards? My son's did and it was soooo cool to have that.

I'm jealous. I'm gonna try to clean the bilge a bit more on this one. Might have to paint it. I'm gonna look hard at the steering throttle and reverse cables.
Any idea where I can get those little seals at the end of the cables? I see one cable is missing them. The little black rubber seals that slide over the shaft. I had a couple of extras from old skis but I need a source.

Keep at it and you'll get R done!!! Post more pictures of the boat.... you're teasing me.

 

[Michael Hunt]

I haven't cleaned the engine compartment yet, it's still grungy. I guess I'll have to take a picture of it when it is clean. I use the Clorox green bottle spray cleaner. It kills/bleaches a bunch of stuff.

If you are missing the steering or reverse cable boots, it means they have rotted off and its time for new cables. I replaced all 4 exterior/drive cables and there weren't any old boots to save. All gone.

The new steering is like power steering from the 60's, one finger. A little too loose for me, which is why I'm thinking about developing a steering damper.

I do need to address the oxidation of the hull at some point. Yours is nice and shiny still.

 

[etemplet]

Pumped out the fuel tank today. Next I'm gonna drain the oil tank and clean them both.

I'm looking for a decent cover for the boat but not to expensive.

 

[Michael Hunt]

My last 2 covers were Outer Armor. I can't say they were inexpensive, but I can say they last a while.

 

[etemplet]

@Michael Hunt . I sure have a BIRD's NEST of hoses in the bottom of this boat and I don't understand they system. Some don't make sense. Perhaps someone has been playing around. LOL I have a couple of questions.

1. Is there only ONE water separator? The line coming from mine goes to the left engine only. I hope I don't have to get into the fuel valves. That doesn't look like fun getting in there.

2. I have to look at the injection oil feed lines to the rotary valves and the pump. Such mess in there. I like neat. LOL

I drained the fuel tank, stuck a rag in there to get all the little specs out that I could so I'm pretty sure it's clean enough.
I removed the oil tank an flused it with gas. Reinstalled the rubber seals with some sealant to help. I don't like leak.
I need to send the fuel baffle out to my repair guy.
Next I'll be putting the engines on the bench to install the oil pumps and charge the oil lines.
I don't mind rebuilding carbs but I sure hate painting them and I'll have FOUR to do. LOL

I'm not in a big rush but I'm not sitting around. I love summer !!!

 

[Michael Hunt]

I'm rebuilding my 4 carbs right now. 2 down, 2 to go, they look marvelous.

If you need to repaint them, use black epoxy spray paint. It will last the longest. Only word of advice about rebuilding Mikuni carbs is ONLY use the Mikuni carb kits (MN-BN38/44 SPR), every other aftermarket kit is rubbish. Also, a friend of mine just lent me his pop off valve tester for the rebuild, and what an eye opener. I suggest you look into borrowing or making one yourself.

I have 2 water separators on the Speedster one for each engine downstream from the fuel switches and before the carbs.

If you plan on repairing or keeping the boat for any length of time, you should look into getting the SeaDoo Jet Boats manual (219 100 044). I don't know what I would do without it.

I'm currently reinstalling the oil injection system on my boat. It came with the injection already removed and it was easy enough to use it as a pre-mix setup, but a boat spends A LOT of time at idle speed and my wife has always complained about the smoke at low speed. Hopefully, this will at least somewhat address the situation.

 

[Michael Hunt]

Oh, if somebody is restoring their injection setup, I have 2 injector cables in very good condition. They are the 270 000 161 cables for most twin carb setups.

My boat uses the 270 000 211 cables, so the 161 cables are available.

 

[etemplet]

I'll take a look and see what I have regarding the parts I need. I appreciate the help and support.

 

[Michael Hunt]

One down one to go.

I like the cockpit layout of the 97 boats better with the rearward facing spotter's seat rather than the 96 open layout, but I DO like the twin carb 720 engines.



If looks could kill.



All cleaned, painted and ready to install. I even verified the oil injection. Too bad it can't be installed assembled as one of the lower Rotax cover bolts is hidden by the oil injector and the carbs block the upper intake manifold-to-Rotax cover bolts. Can't wait to do the other engine and see it this thing doesn't smoke at idle. It better not.

 

[etemplet]

@Michael Hunt GREAT JOB !! Yes I like the boat with the rear facing seat a lot better. That's what my son bought brand new when he got back from Boot Camp with the National Guard. You got me thinking. I have a buddy that builds fiberglass boats. I'll bet he could put that seat in the boat I have.

That's some bad azz intakes !! Where did you set the pop-off? I think they use 1.2mm seats on those carbs. I'm gonna build them to spec.

I agree on the 720 engines it is difficult to get to the oil inject stuff with that one bolt being underneath. It is a real pain in the butt on the jet skis. I'm headed out today to get some work done. Carbs and injection are my critical paths now. Thanks for helping motivate me.

 

[Michael Hunt]

1.2 size needle and seat. The factory pop-off is between 40-56 PSI.

I was mostly cleaning the gasahol buildup out of the carbs when I decided to do a full rebuild instead. I am glad I did. The buildup looks like someone melted a greenish candle down each carb throat. There was so much buildup on the butterflies that they didn't always return to their home position.

For the most part, Rotax engines take a higher pop-off than reed engines as do OEM air filter engines vs aftermarket setups. With the freer filters, longer intake tracts and choke removal, I moved the pop-off pressure down to 33 PSI on the PTO carb and 35 on the MAG side. This was the closest I could get each carb with the springs I had available. 2 PSI difference is pretty good.

I changed out both viton needle and seat assemblies and then noticed the high pop-off spring pressure all but completely deformed the original viton needles. I think the mid-thirties will be a good enough compromise on the setup, if not; then I'll change them. Just removing the carbs is a LOT easier than removing the whole intake tract.

The gasahol buildup migrated down the carbs, into the intake; across to the Rotax cover. The drain back hole at the bottom of the Rotax cover was blocked with buildup resulting in a full inner chamber where the oil injection gear resides. The 2 small ports at the bottom of the case intakes were also plugged with buildup.

The rotary valve was coated on both sides with the waxy buildup as well. What a mess.

When I removed the rotary valve I remembered I have optimized valves with slightly different timing from Rossi. Ahh, the olden days.

 

[etemplet]

Interesting how our mechanical senses kinda lead us to go further even when we don't want to. Glad you found all the stuff wrong before IT found you at an inopportune time. Good job taking care of business.

I haven't done anything on the speedster the past couple of weeks. I sent the fuel baffle off for repair and it came back on Tuesday. My plan was to wait for the baffle because I want to do the fuel system and all the hoses BEFORE the engines are in place. More comfortable for me. I'm gonna do an inventory on all the parts so I'll know what I need. I don't like stopping mid-stream.

The engines are still in the containers. After I finish up on the RFI I'm putting together the 717's will finally see the light of day. Ha ha. I have a lot of other projects but I'm tempted to drop everything and focus on the boat and have some summer fun with it. I don't a blower mounted so I'll have to get one of those.

This past week I'm working on RFIs. I bought one for scrap and gutted it and I"m building an engine for another RFI.

Take Care...