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1996 Speedster-no thrust/power issue

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erikryan88

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We just bought this boat about 2 weeks ago. After extreme cleaning, working out some issues, replacing plugs/oil, getting it running, getting it licensed we finally dropped it into the water today to see what it would do. And boy was that disappointing.

I had no power to go in reverse. Going forward was fine up to about 10-15mph, after that it revved really high and wouldnt go anywhere, like a slipping clutch. The starboard engine was quicker to do this than the port side but both have the issue.

In the middle of the lake, annoyed, I googled and found this forum and possible causes. I limped it back to the trailer, got it home and pulled both jet pumps off. Both wear rings have a good amount of wear, looking down the side, i can see a decent sized gap. On one, the prop rubs in one spot so it looks a bit more rough.

Would you guys think its safe to say these rings are my issue? Can anyone point me in the direction of a sticky that has thorough directions in replacing these? Seals/orings that need ordered in addition to the rings? I may try and order a new prop for the one thats rubbing as it looks rather rough. Finding parts for these boats hasnt been easy thus far.

Im completely new to boat ownership and its not off to a good start.

Thanks in advance
 
Finding parts hasn't been easy?? Check out shopsbt.com, also your problem could be either your wear rings or the carbon seals. Get a set of feeler gauges and measure the gap between wear ring and impeller.
 
I am going through much the same things with my Sportster 1800 I bought just over a month ago. I first changed out a bad engine (or paid someone to change it out), then I did the wear rings, now I am rebuilding the carburetors and changing the carbon ring seals. There are some good youtube videos on changing the carbon rings, first there is the freezer method, where in theory you put the whole pump in the freezer for several hours then when you take it out the wear rings fall right out due to different expansion rates of the materials. Some people have success with this, but t seems most do not. I just had a cold jet pump and wear ring that would not budge. The alternative requires removing the impeller (you will need an impeller socket tool for this cost about $10 online), you then cut the wear ring out, the traditional method uses a wood chissel (again you tube video shows how). However there is a better tool for the job today, one of the popular vibrating blade cutters that came out a couple of years ago ($15-$20 at Harbor Freight, or about $45 at Sears, etc.). These vibrating cutters will cut through the wear rings like a hot knife through butter, just be careful not to cut into the pump housing. Generally if you cut out an inch or so wide strip of wear ring (making 2 cuts) rest can be bent in and will then slide out. If you pull the impeller you will also have to change out the pump oil, which is likely a good idea to change regardless. You should also get a neoprene pump ring to seal the pump to the hull when you reinstall, it is a lot less messy and works better than using silicone.

There are several options on wear rings, from cheap aftermarket, to expensive aftermarket, to OEM, ... Most people here suggest OEM as even the better aftermarket ones seem to have qaulity control issues and can be hit or miss.
 
With what you are describing... it's air getting sucked past the carbon seals. They don't last forever, and when they wear... you get that "Slipping clutch" feeling.

I would replace them, and the boot that keeps them tight. But also inspect the stainless ring to make sure it's not too warn.
 
The wear rings should be fairly smooth. If there are any pieces missing or deep gouges that isn't helping the situation any. Like Doc said check the carbon seal. If you want to cheat to see it that is the problem, loosen the rear hose clamp on the accordion boot and push the boot forward a health 1/4" to 3/8" and clamp it back down there. The toss a cable tie large enough to fill that gap. If that helps you know you need attention to the carbon seal set up.

Also, it probably hasn't been done in years but on the PTO there is a zerk fitting. Pump grease into that until the driveshaft JUST stops moving. That will preload the carbon seal. That alone can sometimes stop the cavitation.

#6 closest to the right side of the pic is the one you want to loosen and push the boot towards the engine.



7.jpg
 
Thanks a lot. I will definitely check all this out. I put both pumps in the freezer for about an hour and both wear rings came right out. I plan to order those today. It looks like silicone was used to seal, is this standard or is the neoprene seal that I've seen online the better way to go?
Also do you have the other part of that diagram that shows the names of the parts that the numbers are labeled?


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Thanks for your help guys. Replaced carbon seals and wear rings. Took it out today and did 50 easy. If the water wasn't so choppy I'd have been pushing it even more, it had more room to go


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