I had a bad mpem, it kept blowing the 5amp fuse, i attained a complete wiring diagram and can make it available, all that i need to convert the system was 2bombardier electric start key switches (solenoid position), 2 tether kill switches, 3 inline fuse blocks, ring wire connectors, female tab wire connectors, i soldered my wire connections to avoid corrosion and a small amount of black tape, a 5amp fuse and 3 15amp fuses. It took a solid afternoon to do. I have all the components in working order except the neutral rev limiter which was the only real thing that the mpem does. If you remove all connections from the mpem including the large connector for the main wiring harness and the wires that tee from the coils, if after you insert a 5amp fuse and connect the short black wire with the ring connector to the battery ground and either of the two short red wires with ring connectors and the fuse still dies the mpem is fried, you will see that there is CDI stamped on your coil, the tee'd wire that connects to both the coil and mpem is acting like a kill switch because of the short in the mpem due to the REV limiter for the neutral protection, sever the wire as close to the mpem (bk/rd/gn and bk/rd ) as you can (its nice to have as much length the wire when you rewire) and voila!! you will now see that you have spark, now you need a way to stop the engines , enter the keyed switches and tether kills. I removed the mpem from the boat, you need all of the wires from the mpem, I cut them as close to the mpem unit as every wire will be re-incorporated into the rewire and again length is nice. The lighting, bilge, etc is wired directly to the fuse box in the front of the boat and is represented by the largest dia bk wire connected to the ground post and large red with the line fuse connected to the batt post of the solenoid. In the front fuse box ciricuitry there is an auxilliary circuit represented by the bk and orange wires capped under the storage bin, I changed the fuse from a 10amp to a15amp fuse and used the orange wire as the solenoid power to both of the switches connect these to the BATT poles on the switches. I cut the dess post off as close as could, toss that stupid thing. I used the dess post wires to wire the kill switches via the tee'd wires, you have to keep these wires that send signal from the stator separate hence 2 key switches and 2tether kills. Reconnect the same colored yellow wires (y/r/g and y/r )from the solenoid plug and main wire harness that were cut from the mpem, ground the bk solenoid plug wires to the post in the box, remove and cut close the wires from the 2 starter buttons ,connect one to each of the SOL poles on the switches, the tether kills fit into these holes, wire them between the GND and MAG poles on the switches, one for each,connect the DESS wires, bk one to GND tied to both switches, the other two connect at the back to the tee'd coil wires one to each switch on the MAG poles, make sure that the SOL and MAG wires come from the same engine. I drilled a new hole for one switch and fit the other in the hole for the DESS post. The engines should now turn over when you turn the key and have spark I took a new wire and sent it from the accessory poles on the switches back through the boat and through the sealed elec. box via one of the batt wire ports and put another inline fuse block with 5amp fuse, the guages tachs, fuel speedo power up here (purple wires), all other circuitry for guages is already done, just need to power them, the buzzer is grounded to the heat sensors on the top of the engines (tn and tn/gn) and connects to tn/bk wire that were cut from the MPEM also connect here the rd/wh wire, this is the neutral switch, with the key in the on position you will now have the buzzer sounding when its in neutral (low tech neutral protection) put the shifter in fwd and the buzzer should go off, leave it in forward and touch the wire from the overheat sensor to the engine and the buzzer will sound, check the other one. The red wires coming from the voltage regulator/rectifier are the charging supply, connect an inline 15amp fuse between the red vr wire and the red wire with ring connector that was cut from the MPEM, connect the ring connector to the batt cable on the solenoid do the same for the one on the other side. Clean it all up install your switches and tethers put the lid on the elec box and take her for a spin. Sad tha seadoo made millions fixin that dess crap and then abandon it, i hope this helps you, i have pics and diagrams, Stacy.
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