RESTO 1996 Seadoo HX for $300 that I got running. What now?
- Thread starter noviceskier
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noviceskier
Active Member
Yup as soon as I gave them any movement one of them started falling apart, another one to the list lol. Better a bushing fail on me than the headpipe bolts
noviceskier
Active Member
The more I look at this ski the more I want to take it down to bare hull and do it right the first time. But I also want to ride it this season.
GGuillot
Well-Known Member
I can understand wanting to ride now, season is upon us. I'm on my second bare hull resto, purchased the first one (97' GTX) in July 2017 and didn't get in on the water until July 2018. I purchased the 96' GSX in May 2018 and project to be on the water by this May, I'm about to enter the engine assembly and carb rebuild phase, the last part. Both skis were complete disasters when I got them but I saw the potential.
It's a lot of work building back up from bare hull and the cost can add up, but it's like a new ski when you're done. I go through everything, clean, repair, replace, adjust, verify. I spend more time on the cosmetics, the engine and carbs are nothing, a couple weeks once the parts are media blasted, the cosmetics/hull is months... That's were the work is, a clean ski and making it look good, but to me it's one of the most rewarding parts...
noviceskier
Active Member
Alright got the parts ordered (finally from procaliber)
Don't know the estimated ship date yet
What I ordered:
Fuel Selector Valve
2 Oil tank grommets
Fuel filter assembly
Oil Filter
1 Gal mineral Oil
3 Grommets for the pipe
Some misc bolts I couldn't find at the local hardware store/
Ordering those 3/32 tygon lines and copper rtv silicon gasket sealer for the clamp, also having a hard time getting that clamp off too. How do I work it off? (I don't have any pictures right now for it but here's another picture off google)
Don't know the estimated ship date yet
What I ordered:
Fuel Selector Valve
2 Oil tank grommets
Fuel filter assembly
Oil Filter
1 Gal mineral Oil
3 Grommets for the pipe
Some misc bolts I couldn't find at the local hardware store/
Ordering those 3/32 tygon lines and copper rtv silicon gasket sealer for the clamp, also having a hard time getting that clamp off too. How do I work it off? (I don't have any pictures right now for it but here's another picture off google)
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noviceskier
Active Member
Used a hammer and a pair of pliers, with gentle taps and some penetrating fluid i was able to get it free.
noviceskier
Active Member
Alright just waiting on parts now, ordered through procaliber. Wondering if they'll ever send me a shipping estimate lol.
Only thing stopping me when the parts do get here, is just replacing the two (most likely four depending what the pto carb has to offer.) Thinking about ordering those from osd. Getting it out on the water soon if all goes to plan, but most likely wont. lol
High temp copper rtv gasket maker and the 3/32 tygon lines came in today. Might just swap out the lines right now actually, gonna use some pliers and gently wiggle the clamps off, once clamps are off, how would one tighten them back?
Only thing stopping me when the parts do get here, is just replacing the two (most likely four depending what the pto carb has to offer.) Thinking about ordering those from osd. Getting it out on the water soon if all goes to plan, but most likely wont. lol
High temp copper rtv gasket maker and the 3/32 tygon lines came in today. Might just swap out the lines right now actually, gonna use some pliers and gently wiggle the clamps off, once clamps are off, how would one tighten them back?
noviceskier
Active Member
Ordered the screws for my carbs from OSD that the PO stripped out (haven't cracked open pto carb yet but preemptively ordered them too just in case)
Still waiting for procaliber to send me shipping estimate.. lol or anything useful really.
Still waiting for procaliber to send me shipping estimate.. lol or anything useful really.
GGuillot
Well-Known Member
No shipping estimate? hasn't even shipped? That's ridiculous, you placed that order almost a week ago, cancel and go with someone else, I got an order recently from OSD within 3 days. Between Amazon, Ebay, SBT, PWC Muscle, and OSD you should be able to get anything you need. All, unless coming from China on ebay, you'll get it within 3 - 7 days.
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OSD and other places stock the parts they list in house. Dealerships can't stock every part especially for skis that are over 20 years old. With Pro Caliber they are an actual dealer in Washington State so they order from Seadoo then when your order arrives they ship to you. Seadoo won't let a dealer drop ship to the customer so it does take a little longer but that is the price you pay for getting OEM parts at the lowest price.
In the past I have called them and typically it is 1 part holding up the order so if I need it ASAP I have them ship what they have then pay the $7 to ship the offending part when it arrives.
noviceskier
Active Member
Yeah think it might be that one misc. screw I ordered that could be holding it up, I'll call them monday and see what's going on.
noviceskier
Active Member
Awesome news, got a nice box of parts that came in. Turns out the grommets on the pipe are what are held it up and I'm just gonna assume they'll come in later. Since that what I'm understanding when reading the receipt. Time to get to work this weekend.
Already got the pipes painted w/clear. Looking nice on that end.
Quick question on some little stuff, how would one flush the rv cavity? Remove one of the oil lines and just suck it up with a pump?
How to get the grommets replaced on the tank, I see a plastic red little nut inside the tank. Do I take it apart from there?
Just need to get a pressure test kit made for the carbs and I'll be out for the first initial ride before I begin the jet pump rebuild. Any chance someone could just me how they made theres?
Already got the pipes painted w/clear. Looking nice on that end.
Quick question on some little stuff, how would one flush the rv cavity? Remove one of the oil lines and just suck it up with a pump?
How to get the grommets replaced on the tank, I see a plastic red little nut inside the tank. Do I take it apart from there?
Just need to get a pressure test kit made for the carbs and I'll be out for the first initial ride before I begin the jet pump rebuild. Any chance someone could just me how they made theres?
noviceskier
Active Member
Alright, got all the parts, carbs are almost done.
Been awhile haha, painted my faded and stained pipe white, not liking it so much. Might have to go with a yellow instead. I'll get a nice long updated post in the meantime.
Got the fuel strainer installed, new oil filter, new fuel selector valve, new fuel lines have already been routed just needing to see if the original orientation that P.O had was correct lol.
Any tips on flushing the RV cavity? and removing as much of the old oil as possible?
Already got the new grommets installed on the oil tank, pressure relief valve is also tested good so that's a plus. Got to flush the tank with some fresh gas and I should be good.
Haven't touched jet pump at all. If I was to add new oil, do I just remove cone, let all old fluid out. Add new oil? If it's that simple I'll do it before the maiden voyage.
Stole the end caps off the hx for one of my other skis sadly, anyone got a good source where I can buy some new?
Been awhile haha, painted my faded and stained pipe white, not liking it so much. Might have to go with a yellow instead. I'll get a nice long updated post in the meantime.
Got the fuel strainer installed, new oil filter, new fuel selector valve, new fuel lines have already been routed just needing to see if the original orientation that P.O had was correct lol.
Any tips on flushing the RV cavity? and removing as much of the old oil as possible?
Already got the new grommets installed on the oil tank, pressure relief valve is also tested good so that's a plus. Got to flush the tank with some fresh gas and I should be good.
Haven't touched jet pump at all. If I was to add new oil, do I just remove cone, let all old fluid out. Add new oil? If it's that simple I'll do it before the maiden voyage.
Stole the end caps off the hx for one of my other skis sadly, anyone got a good source where I can buy some new?
noviceskier
Active Member
Back here again, missed the season with my hx pretty much, got focused on other projects.
Compression on the motor (after I finally decided to test it) is 130 on both cylinders, seems alright, all I need to do now is clean some dirty grounds and connections and change the oil in the jet pump.
Pretty much just remove nose cone, let old oil drain out, loctite the allen bolts and reinstall add new oil till it pours out the plug?
Also, I got as much of the old oil I could from the rv but there's still some since the 3/32 lines got a little bit left in them (already replaced them with new ones.) If i brought my ski to the ramp, let it idle and have leave the return line disconnected and wait for the all the old oil to pour out till I see red?
Another quick question, if I leave engine in place but remove jet pump and driveshaft, will i need new alignment? It's been awhile and I forgot if it'd get out of alignment or not by doing so. I have the old yellow driveshaft and neglected to order the revised one(spline something?)
After I get that all done all I need to do now is install an hour meter and tach into my emptyr gauge cluster on the hood. Also some new paint when the time comes.
Compression on the motor (after I finally decided to test it) is 130 on both cylinders, seems alright, all I need to do now is clean some dirty grounds and connections and change the oil in the jet pump.
Pretty much just remove nose cone, let old oil drain out, loctite the allen bolts and reinstall add new oil till it pours out the plug?
Also, I got as much of the old oil I could from the rv but there's still some since the 3/32 lines got a little bit left in them (already replaced them with new ones.) If i brought my ski to the ramp, let it idle and have leave the return line disconnected and wait for the all the old oil to pour out till I see red?
Another quick question, if I leave engine in place but remove jet pump and driveshaft, will i need new alignment? It's been awhile and I forgot if it'd get out of alignment or not by doing so. I have the old yellow driveshaft and neglected to order the revised one(spline something?)
After I get that all done all I need to do now is install an hour meter and tach into my emptyr gauge cluster on the hood. Also some new paint when the time comes.
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Rapptorman
Member
Autozone wanted $40 to “rent” it in case you don’t bring it back. It’s a deposit.
Essentially you’re buying whatever tool you’re borrowing and then returning it for a refund when you’re done. The cost varies by the tool.
Essentially you’re buying whatever tool you’re borrowing and then returning it for a refund when you’re done. The cost varies by the tool.
gazzaskirepair
Active Member
For parts you can also try
Dave at Thejetskistore he keeps loads of parts and very helpful has a lot of 2nd hand skis for parts break up and has a HX looks repairable outside his office door
The Jet Ski Store | New And Used Parts
Drop him an email for parts not listed
Mention Gary sent you
Dave at Thejetskistore he keeps loads of parts and very helpful has a lot of 2nd hand skis for parts break up and has a HX looks repairable outside his office door
The Jet Ski Store | New And Used Parts
Drop him an email for parts not listed
Mention Gary sent you
noviceskier
Active Member
thanks for the new source of parts, I've been using procaliber that was recommended to me for the cheapest oem parts from the warehouses, been pretty well. Free shipping on purchases over $100 too. I'm just wondering if it'd be more effective leaving the return line disconnected feeding into a bottle while I have the ski idling in the water to get as much of the oil out as possible to prevent contamination.
Apart from that the only other thing I'm needing to do is replace the old yellow driveshaft damper without needing to realign the motor and pump.
Somewhat happy with the compression at 130, maybe in a couple seasons I'll throw a new topend on the ski, but for now i'll run with it.
Once I get a season with the ski I'll be stripping it down to bare hull and doing a full resto but as for now I'm working with it lol.
noviceskier
Active Member
alright will do. after that I'll just bleed the system of air, open bleeder screw, oil pump lever wot, let ski idle till all air is out of the 3/32 lines if I remember correctly?
noviceskier
Active Member
Hey mikidymac, would be killer if you could send how your cables are attached to your carbs on your HX, it being so long I no longer have the original photos to being able to reference again. I goofed up and forgot to attach the one bracket for the cables so when I have the time I got to take the carbs off again and put it back on.
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