LikeabossTM
Active Member
Lube the tough grommet with a little dish soap.
RESTO 1996 Seadoo HX for $300 that I got running. What now?
- Thread starter noviceskier
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noviceskier
Active Member
When I'm bleeding the oil system holding pump fully extended while engine is idling, should I use a 10:1 premix? Also could I just use siphon instead of having to run the engine?
jts32
Active Member
Definitely not looking to tell anyone "I told you so." I've made plenty of dumb mistakes over the years that have cost me, and hate to see others do the same.
Get yourself your own compression tester. If you plan to do your own wrenching and repair, it will be a necessary tool. I picked mine up from Farm & Fleet for $40-50.
As far as bleeding the oil pump, the pump must be spinning to pump oil into the injection lines. Running the motor and holding the pump lever full open is the fastest and easiest way
noviceskier
Active Member
Understandable, thank you for your concern with it too! I didn't mean anything negative with it either as well, and hope to have this thing on the water soon. I will be testing the compression this week but the oem carb rebuild kits are coming in tomorrow so that's something to look for!
You need to open the little bleed screw on the oil pump to get the old oil and air out before you even think of starting it.
Then once it’s bled then you start it and hold the lever wide open with it idling to purge the little 3/32” oil lines.
No reason to premix it.
Then once it’s bled then you start it and hold the lever wide open with it idling to purge the little 3/32” oil lines.
No reason to premix it.
noviceskier
Active Member
Just to make sure I got it I:
Crack open (someone said it was 8mm nut?)
Keep turning till oil comes out
Stop when flow of oil comes out
Wait till the correct oil flows.
Start engine and let idle while lever is wide open till motor bogs?
Tighten screw?
jts32
Active Member
Open the 8mm bleed screw, and bleed until you get a constant stream of "good" oil. Make sure to put down some shop rags under the pump, and use of a mirror helps to get a better view. Close the bleed screw and start the motor to bleed the injection lines
noviceskier
Active Member
My torn boot cover for the shock came in along with one of the rebuild kits for my carbs, I got charged for one kit but ordered two, going to have to wait two more days till I can get both of them rebuilt.
I have a ultrasonic cleaner that I used for old atc and automotive carbs, anything special I should be doing before giving them a bath?
I'll post some pictures later one of the process following your rebuild thread from time to time lol
Any tips on getting the bottom ring on for the boot too? My giant hands are having a hard time getting in there.
I have a ultrasonic cleaner that I used for old atc and automotive carbs, anything special I should be doing before giving them a bath?
I'll post some pictures later one of the process following your rebuild thread from time to time lol
Any tips on getting the bottom ring on for the boot too? My giant hands are having a hard time getting in there.
noviceskier
Active Member
Aside from the premix inside and some crud, how do these looks? Any "since your this far you should x" yall can give me? If I'm taking off rv cover whats the pn for gasket?
Also since I want to take off the 3/32 lines and replace them with new tygon lines, how do I remove those weird clamps on them?
Currently taking apart the mag carb right now since I only have one kit, going to test pop-off pressure before I work on other
Intake side of ski is very very dirty, going to mask off the intake and use some superclean again
Also since I want to take off the 3/32 lines and replace them with new tygon lines, how do I remove those weird clamps on them?
Currently taking apart the mag carb right now since I only have one kit, going to test pop-off pressure before I work on other
Intake side of ski is very very dirty, going to mask off the intake and use some superclean again
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If it was mine and I was going to ride it hard I would pull it apart and replace all gaskets and seals.
Keep in mind all the o-rings and crank seals are not soft after being 20+ years old.
All you need is a WSM complete gasket kit and some piston snap rings. Be careful as the piston pin bearings are loose needles so either make a sleeve to hold them when you pull the piston pins or buy new caged bearings. I cut a cheap deep socket it half to take the place of the piston pin to hold the bearing sin one of mine.
I can see you also have to old yellow driveshaft dampers that will let go and destroy the shaft and PTO. Make sure you upgrade to the new red ones.
Keep in mind all the o-rings and crank seals are not soft after being 20+ years old.
All you need is a WSM complete gasket kit and some piston snap rings. Be careful as the piston pin bearings are loose needles so either make a sleeve to hold them when you pull the piston pins or buy new caged bearings. I cut a cheap deep socket it half to take the place of the piston pin to hold the bearing sin one of mine.
I can see you also have to old yellow driveshaft dampers that will let go and destroy the shaft and PTO. Make sure you upgrade to the new red ones.
noviceskier
Active Member
Thankyou for the info, this season I was wanting to get to just ride it maybe put 30 hours on it and do a bare hull restoration, I was thinking about replacing it for since they aren't as expensive as a new pto and shaft. Would all I have to do is move the motor forward till it slips out then put new one in and reverse process?
Were you able to look at the pictures I sent, using some laptop and I can't figure out how to get them the other way.
Currently working on the carb right now, all the oem paint seems to have been contaminated and its bubbling off.
Could I just use superclean with ultrasonic cleaner to clean it off?
noviceskier
Active Member
A dark day for the hx, the PO (or one of) attempted to rebuild the mag carb and stripped out one of the bolts holding the block above the jets, insult to injury looks like a lot of dried up green goo caused some corrosion and rust on the carbon steel screws.
What would cause the fuel pump block to have discoloration but no pitting and surface is still flat? Also a stubborn gasket has become one with the pulse block (calling it that because that's where that particular line connects to.) Maybe some brake cleaner and a plastic chisel will help me.
Ordered a impact jis #2 from vessel to try and help, also a rubberband since that method has worked for me before.
Maybe in a month or two I can start working on gelcoat repairs but carbs are my main concern now, was gonna try and bang this one out tonight but technical difficulties has put mission hx on halt.. lol
Next mission is cleaning intake side of the 717 and replacing those 3/32 lines but no clue how to remove them from the weird looking clamps
What would cause the fuel pump block to have discoloration but no pitting and surface is still flat? Also a stubborn gasket has become one with the pulse block (calling it that because that's where that particular line connects to.) Maybe some brake cleaner and a plastic chisel will help me.
Ordered a impact jis #2 from vessel to try and help, also a rubberband since that method has worked for me before.
Maybe in a month or two I can start working on gelcoat repairs but carbs are my main concern now, was gonna try and bang this one out tonight but technical difficulties has put mission hx on halt.. lol
Next mission is cleaning intake side of the 717 and replacing those 3/32 lines but no clue how to remove them from the weird looking clamps
noviceskier
Active Member
Will get that ordered when I get the ski running, gonna be stubborn and use my short and stubby screwdriver, a prayer, and a rubberband to try and remove the stripped screw.
So I can reassemble the carb with the oem kit, I wonder if the owner ran it in the condition is was, looked like the diaphragm was falling apart. Fuel filter was clogged completely and the spring was corroded and needle was glued to the seat.
noviceskier
Active Member
While I'm waiting to resolve the carbs, I figured I would remove the pipe to clean off all the black grime underneath and try and get a look at the pistons, found the pn for the sealant ring but when i tried ordering one it said it was obsolete?
Also missing two bolts that go to the exhaust manifold, pn 215684060
Also missing two bolts that go to the exhaust manifold, pn 215684060
ah64driver2002
Member
Not sure what ring you are looking for but osd parts has the bolts you are looking for
noviceskier
Active Member
getting the part number is the first step...then google it. Seadoo loved to change part numbers.
for example, 215684060 is the same as 207084060, and guess which costs way less
ebay and seadoo junkyards can be the cost effective way to get some of this stuff.
assuming you mean the copper sealing ring 274000152 try westsidepowersports.com. If no luck, you can often heat copper rings until they are red hot to anneal them, then reuse. A propane torch works.
poke around for the joys of getting that joint sealed well. The usual advice is don't take the joint apart … pull the entire pipe.
since you have the pipe apart, inspect the welch plugs - the welded shut bungs. They have a habit to corrode from the inside out and pinhole. It's possible to grind them off and reweld on new plugs if you can weld aluminum, but it may be just as easy to get a used pipe in good shape.
for example, 215684060 is the same as 207084060, and guess which costs way less
ebay and seadoo junkyards can be the cost effective way to get some of this stuff.
assuming you mean the copper sealing ring 274000152 try westsidepowersports.com. If no luck, you can often heat copper rings until they are red hot to anneal them, then reuse. A propane torch works.
poke around for the joys of getting that joint sealed well. The usual advice is don't take the joint apart … pull the entire pipe.
since you have the pipe apart, inspect the welch plugs - the welded shut bungs. They have a habit to corrode from the inside out and pinhole. It's possible to grind them off and reweld on new plugs if you can weld aluminum, but it may be just as easy to get a used pipe in good shape.
noviceskier
Active Member
Yup took the entire pipe off as a whole, was going to reclear it and took it off the clean what was underneath it, was wanting to remove that joint is because there's a ton of buildup espicially around there, although there was a lot of black tar to start with lol. I was wanting to inspect it and see what it was about, probably just gonna leave it be lol.
$36 a gallon?!?! I'm going to have to do that for sure.
noviceskier
Active Member
PO must have lost the two bolts on there or broke them, gonna order the, soon. Bushing in it right now seem in good condition besides slight tear, but if needed I'll replace
noviceskier
Active Member
Pulled pipe off as whole and cleaned off all the crud, discoloration on some areas, honestly I think this ski was left with the hood open for however long because it would really explain how dirty the inside is.
No corrosion plugs seem to be in cood condition, aside from some stagnated water that has been sitting for who knows.
Not as bad as I thought it would have been. Although I do know how to tig aluminum so anything like that would not have been a problem.
Probably going to wet sand and reclear the pipe. Going to post pictures of condition of ski soon as I've been continuing to clean and try to mess with small things throughout the week
No corrosion plugs seem to be in cood condition, aside from some stagnated water that has been sitting for who knows.
Not as bad as I thought it would have been. Although I do know how to tig aluminum so anything like that would not have been a problem.
Probably going to wet sand and reclear the pipe. Going to post pictures of condition of ski soon as I've been continuing to clean and try to mess with small things throughout the week
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