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1996 gtx all of a sudden no starter???

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CAVERJIM

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Well last night they cranked and this evening at the river no start. It is in the starter system somewhere. Push the button and it does not roll over, I do have power at the gauges. My question is where would yaw start chasing down this problem. Im thinking start at the starter button see if it has power going in then coming out but do I have to tare into the handle bar area or can i check in the front bay area? Please help.
 
try another battery, with good known hard charge, not a battery with a quickie surface charge,

as stated above, try with plugs out, fuel off, and plug wire boots on ground posts.

just a couple quick notes for this season if you have battery issues:
dont connect running vehicle or boat with jumper cables to ski battery,
dont charge ski battery with ski positive and negative cables connected,
damage to ski electronics will occur.
 
To expand on the battery thing. Seadoos REALLY like their voltage and amperage. You must have a good battery, good clean connections in regards to the battery and starter wires, and a good starter. If any of them and not near perfect, it cause a serious drag...
 
It cranked last night no problems put trickle charger on it and that may have ran battery down somehow over night so low voltage today at river the trickle charger is all I did. I did check all the fuses. this is not a motor or spark issue its in the starter system only. I did carge it with hot and ground wires still conected to battery could that have messed something up?
 
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Yes possibly, let's just get a good battery installed and go from there.

Rob
 
A few things...
1). Charging a battery that is still connected is not a bad thing as long as,, the charger is 2.5 amps or less and you do not try to start the engine while it is hook up on the charger. You CAN jump from another battery, but the vehicle the other batter is in can NOT be running.

2). Jump the solenoid and see what happens. The answer to this will help us help you...
 
The solenoids go bad on them often. You can unplug the connector going into the solenoid and put a meter on the two terminals on the cable. Push the start button and it should read about 12v. If it does, then hook it back up and push the button again. If the solenoid does not click, it is dead. If you dont get 12v, then the problem is upstream at the MPEM end. Perhaps low volts like others have said. Then jump the two big terminals on the solenoid with a screwdriver. If it turns over, it is also a dead solenoid. If it doesn't, then it is a dead starter.
 
Ok where is the solenoid? I believe that is the issue. I have a new batterie and pulled the plugs not hydrolocked which i new anyway but rulled it out so i would know 100 percent. it is in the starter circuit somewhere and the solenoid does the same thing on cars.The starter sounded good and strong prior to problem so I dont think it is starter. The battery cable was slightly loose on hot side so it could have fried the solenoid from an un even amps draw, so someone tell me where it is. The starter did drop out once or twice like solenoid was loosing contact.
 
There are no audible noises clicks or otherwise when you push start button. But the rubber is wornout on the starter button, and maybe water shorted the button out? Its got to be button or solenoid I will check solenoid later someone tell me where and what wires to jump and lets pray thats all it is. I forgot to tell yaw everything else fires up fuelpump lights on insterment panel etc. fuses all looked good.
 
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Ok crossed out solenoid and ski will crank so now I need to verify weather it is the push button or is it the solenoid its self.
 
If the gauges light up when you push the button, then the button should be OK. Sounds like you found the solenoid, but it is in the rear electrical box. The solenoids get flakey then die.
 
I checked with dealer they got the rubber covers for the push button for 10.00 so that is the next must have seal that thing up so it doesnt short they asked 110.00 for the push button. Which wire is the hot to activate the solenoid check it so I know that it is sending power?
 
Ok it cranks and runs great with lanyard on IF YOU CROSS THE SOLENOID. But the kill function of the button will not kill the engine. You can remove the lanyard and kill the engine, but not by pressing the button alone. So MY thinking is it is the button and not the solenoid. What are yaws thoughts on that one. I hate electrical problems makes me wish I was in "COLORADO".
 
Unplug the button, use a DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Meter), put a lead on each wire of the plug, press the plug with the meter on Ohms. Not pushed the meter should read "open" or no numbers on the screen. Press the button and it will "Close" the loop and the number will quickly work their way to zero or near zero. If the above happens, the button is good. If when you press it the numbers do not move, the button is bad.
 
Where is the best place to check those wires right at the button? The dealer said there was no plugs for the button that it wired directly into computer and that the wires had to be cut and spliced to replace it. They did say it could be replaced 110.00 clams.
 
I'm pretty sure the 96 has a plug right where it comes out of the steering stem. Will be a yellow/red and black wire, just unplug and test there.

The older ones did wire into the electrical box but even those had plugs once inside the box. You can get new aftermarket switches for like $20 as well as aftermarket button covers for a couple bucks.
 
Ok learned 2 things today stop asking the dealer questions about the water craft that they work on, because they know less than I do. I tore into the steering area chased the wire down to a plug in the front bay area crossed it at the plug and yaa hoo it cranks and kills just as it should so Im going to cut the old wires at the button wire me a push button for lawnmower store it in front bay till I get a factory button.
 
Ok working on pictures of my quicky repair so I ccan use it this weekend. But the push button went bad after first ride of season 2nd trip was a pisser offer.
 
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