1995 SP 587 running too hot

[MightyEsquilax]

My first post to the forum! My '95 SP with a 587 is running way too hot. I have great water flow out the back piss holes but the cylinder cover is way too hot and I can't hold a hand to it and the temperature alarm occasionally sounds. I also have a 1996 SP with a 587 and that cylinder cover is only warm and you CAN hold a hand on it. I have some observations and things I have done and a list of things I *think* I should do...but I just need some guidance on where to look next or whether or not I'm looking in the wrong places.


Here's what I have done:

1. I torn off the tune pipe. The exhaust manifold and tune pipe water passages look MINT. No corrosion, no sand, I blew them out with air and water from the garden hose. No blockages that I could detect.

2. I blew out ALL of the water lines going to/from the jet pump and into the engine and exhaust. Same observations, no sand, no corrosion and I feel great air flow everywhere.



Here's the list of what I should do???

1. Validate the Jet Pump Wear ring is ok? I'm pretty sure it is because I have great water flow and great performance from the ski. Not looking forward to the Jet Pump removal...so I'm looking for someone to talk me out of it


2. Pop off the cylinder cover and maybe cylinder blocks to look for blockages? I'm not too scared to do this but I feel the compressed air I've pushed through the lines and manifolds proves there is no blockage...plus the good condition of the exhaust might indicate there likely isn't build up in the engine...? Thoughts?


3. Richen the high speed jet mix? If it were too lean, would that cause the whole engine to run hot hot hot like I'm seeing?


4. Run a compression test?? Would lousy compression in one or both cylinders cause the engine to run too hot?



I'm open to any other suggestions and comments on my TO-DO list.


Thanks for the help!
4.

 

[NickCawks]

It's more than likely a poor tune on carb.

Have the carb(s) been rebuilt?

What color are you fuel hoses?

The high speed needle means very little, it's the low speed that's a bigger concern. However both need to be set to factory setting and then possibly slight adjustments from there but for the most part if stock carb settings aren't doing it it's indicative of another problem

 

[Ckrawiec]

My first post to the forum! My '95 SP with a 587 is running way too hot. I have great water flow out the back piss holes but the cylinder cover is way too hot and I can't hold a hand to it and the temperature alarm occasionally sounds. I also have a 1996 SP with a 587 and that cylinder cover is only warm and you CAN hold a hand on it. I have some observations and things I have done and a list of things I *think* I should do...but I just need some guidance on where to look next or whether or not I'm looking in the wrong places.


Here's what I have done:

1. I torn off the tune pipe. The exhaust manifold and tune pipe water passages look MINT. No corrosion, no sand, I blew them out with air and water from the garden hose. No blockages that I could detect.

2. I blew out ALL of the water lines going to/from the jet pump and into the engine and exhaust. Same observations, no sand, no corrosion and I feel great air flow everywhere.



Here's the list of what I should do???

1. Validate the Jet Pump Wear ring is ok? I'm pretty sure it is because I have great water flow and great performance from the ski. Not looking forward to the Jet Pump removal...so I'm looking for someone to talk me out of it


2. Pop off the cylinder cover and maybe cylinder blocks to look for blockages? I'm not too scared to do this but I feel the compressed air I've pushed through the lines and manifolds proves there is no blockage...plus the good condition of the exhaust might indicate there likely isn't build up in the engine...? Thoughts?


3. Richen the high speed jet mix? If it were too lean, would that cause the whole engine to run hot hot hot like I'm seeing?


4. Run a compression test?? Would lousy compression in one or both cylinders cause the engine to run too hot?



I'm open to any other suggestions and comments on my TO-DO list.


Thanks for the help!
4.

Based upon the cooling system diagram of your ski, very simple straight forward cooling path......IF, as you say, you have good PISS out the 2 pisser holes but the head is HOT, I would suspect that the water path through the cylinder head is short circuited......the water may get into the head but then is immediately ejected.....indicating a possible blockage within the head itself.

I once found a vegetation blockage in my cooling system AFTER my son casually stated the seat was getting warm while riding.

You are a salt water rider, so it is entirely possible a combination of sand, tiny shells, vegetation may may formed a blockage in the head itself diverting off the cooling path. I'd pull the head at this point.

 

[MightyEsquilax]

It's more than likely a poor tune on carb.

Have the carb(s) been rebuilt?

What color are you fuel hoses?

The high speed needle means very little, it's the low speed that's a bigger concern. However both need to be set to factory setting and then possibly slight adjustments from there but for the most part if stock carb settings aren't doing it it's indicative of another problem

Carbs are set to the factory settings. I rebuilt this one last year I believe. I always leave the high speed mix at 0 turns per spec. I start the low speed mix at 1.5 turns and adjust with the idle screw per spec. Just curious, why do you say the high speed means little? 85-90% of the ski riding is well off idle. The carbs are factory and I am running premix 40:1.

 

[NickCawks]

I just meant as long as it's at factory spec there's rarely a time you will need to adjust it.

 

[MightyEsquilax]

Latest update... The head cover looks mint. Very little corrosion and a tiny pinch of sand. I ran a borescope down the head cooling passages and they look totally clean. I took a closer look at the wear ring today and it looks uniform around and tight with the prop. At this point I'm going to rebuild the carb and richen the low and hide speed needles a bit and put it all back together. It just seems the engine would be running too hot for a lean condition.