1995 Seadoo GTX Starting issues.

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Okay, I finished rebuilding it, it was very clean inside, just some screws were stripped. I siphoned out all the fuel and have some new untreated fuel. When I was removing the carburetor, I noticed some fragile cut pieces of tube on the bottom that were filled with the 2 cycle oil that was leaking out earlier as I mentioned. I'll post some pictures of it here, I could get some replacement tunes for it but I don't know what it is called or where to rout it at. Isome piece of another tube was connected to a needle valve of some sort. Do you know what oil line it may be and where it connects?IMG-20230816-WA0001.jpg
 

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3AD28A37-97D1-49AF-B40D-A4C355A5EBD6.pngThose are your small 3/32” oil lines from the oil pump to the fittings on your rotary valve cover just beneath the carburetors. You have the fittings circled in your pictures. You can get that line aftermarket at lawn mower shop, I prefer to buy OEM for these lines just to ensure it’s quality line and proper fit. Part number is in photo, 1500mm will be enough to do 3 or 4 machines.
 
I charged the battery and rented a compressor test from Autozone, one cylinder has 130psi and the other has 126 psi
That is good compression numbers. So on to the next thing.
You said you put new oil in the tank. Did you mix different oils, sometimes that can cause the oil to congeal. I would look at that first,.
If you can get it to run any amount of time I would do a chop, that is where you go as fast at it can go and pull the lanyard,, killing the engine. Then pull the spark plugs and see how they look. That may give you an idea if you are lean or rich, that will help diagnose the fue probem too.
 
That is good compression numbers. So on to the next thing.
You said you put new oil in the tank. Did you mix different oils, sometimes that can cause the oil to congeal. I would look at that first,.
If you can get it to run any amount of time I would do a chop, that is where you go as fast at it can go and pull the lanyard,, killing the engine. Then pull the spark plugs and see how they look. That may give you an idea if you are lean or rich, that will help diagnose the fue probem too.
Yeah I initially had about half a quart left of xps oil before I put a quart of Lucas semi synthetic Api tc oil
 
You can't mix oils, you need to completely drain and flush the system and install a new oil filter.
You will destroy the engine running it with those little oil lines broken. They are the only thing supplying oil from the oil pump to the cylinders and crankshaft.
 
You can't mix oils, you need to completely drain and flush the system and install a new oil filter.
You will destroy the engine running it with those little oil lines broken. They are the only thing supplying oil from the oil pump to the cylinders and crankshaft.
Thank you, I knew these lines supplied oil to the engine, that is why I have not started the engine. Is there a tutorial on flushing the oil system?
 
I charged the battery and rented a compressor test from Autozone, one cylinder has 130psi and the other has 126 psi
1) test procedure for compression should include adding a table spoon of oil in each plug hole, then rotating engine for about 10 seconds. wait 15 minutes and then retest both cylinders without spark plugs installed. 140 psi is the minimum. the reason for the oil to free up any stuck piston rings.
2) rebuild the carbs but do it right, it is not simple. most likely there will be goo from old gas. i do not use mikuni rebuild kits they are too expensive. There are some others that are just as good but you have to be careful, don't buy the cheapest and see who made them and check their ratings.
3) remove/clean and inspect the rav valves see the "how to" videos on youtube. this is very important! make sure the adjustment is correct.
4) replace or sandblast the fouled spark plugs
5) when you turn the engine over with no plugs installed, do you see any liquid coming from plug holes? sometimes you may get a water/oil mixture in the crankcase which will foul plugs quickly
 
Please do not add oil when checking compression on these and for goodness sake do not use aftermarket carb parts.

Compression test is done with no oil, sparkplug wires grounded, throttle wide open and a strong battery. Perfect compression OP ski is 150 psi. 120 psi they are done.

1995 GTX does not have RAVE valves.
 
I am getting about 140-145 psi each cylinder. I met a guy at a lake who converted his 94 gtx to premix. He told me it never failed on him, and that the oil injectors and 3/32 lines usually can fail. He recommended to convert mine to premix. If I wanted to convert my gtx to premix what procedure should I follow. I heard to leave the oil line on the exhaust side alone.
 
I am getting about 140-145 psi each cylinder. I met a guy at a lake who converted his 94 gtx to premix. He told me it never failed on him, and that the oil injectors and 3/32 lines usually can fail. He recommended to convert mine to premix. If I wanted to convert my gtx to premix what procedure should I follow. I heard to leave the oil line on the exhaust side alone.
If it is a bad idea, I have free time today and tomorrow to finish the system. I would like to know where the 3/32lones connect to I think it is the oil injectors pump. And where it is located. I already have them clamped to the area near the carburetor.
 
I am getting about 140-145 psi each cylinder. I met a guy at a lake who converted his 94 gtx to premix. He told me it never failed on him, and that the oil injectors and 3/32 lines usually can fail. He recommended to convert mine to premix. If I wanted to convert my gtx to premix what procedure should I follow. I heard to leave the oil line on the exhaust side alone.
Well, in 30 years I have never seen these injection systems fail except for the 3/32" hoses so I always recommend keeping it.
You also have to supply oil to the rotary valve so you can't just remove everything.

The best thing to do is install new rubber grommets on the oil tank to prevent leaks.
Install a new white inline oil filter.
Verify you are using the correct API-TC oil.
Install new 3/32" oil lines. On your ski they are on the intake manifold under the carbs and are only a few inches each.

feb981d0-58f0-46ee-9d1c-1af69aa49911_zpsdd77d0e8.jpg
 
Well, in 30 years I have never seen these injection systems fail except for the 3/32" hoses so I always recommend keeping it.
You also have to supply oil to the rotary valve so you can't just remove everything.

The best thing to do is install new rubber grommets on the oil tank to prevent leaks.
Install a new white inline oil filter.
Verify you are using the correct API-TC oil.
Install new 3/32" oil lines. On your ski they are on the intake manifold under the carbs and are only a few inches each.

View attachment 63836
Where would the oil injection system be located because I already have the 3/32 lines already connected to where the carbs are.
 
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