Just bought my first PWC. Worked briefly. Have had issues starting ever since. When I place lanyard over DESS...no lights or beeps. Of course when start button is pressed nothing happens. The only way I am able to start is removing the connection (gray) just above the stator and battery. When I reconnect...seadoo starts immediately...and all gauges and lights work. Have already replaced solenoid (starter relay) and battery. Tried to troubleshoot starter switch, DESS, and other components. I am leaning toward DESS or MPEM faulty. Any help greatly appreciated.
-
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
1995 seadoo gtx ignition problems
- Thread starter HOPPY1118
- Start date
- Status
If I leave the battery cable attached to the battery during storage, the battery is drained of all charge. I have to remove cable from battery during storage. I still cannot get the seadoo started by using the start/stop button. I must remove the connector just above the battery...upon reconnection, the seadoo fires right up.
Any suggestions?
Any suggestions?
bad mpem, luckily you can still operate the ski, and kill power to the mpem by simply unplugging the magnito. That black wire in the loom is the mpem ground. Some folks
put a toggle switch inline on black wire, or removeable fuse. Its the hillbilly dess. Bill
put a toggle switch inline on black wire, or removeable fuse. Its the hillbilly dess. Bill
I got to ride this weekend. Started just fine (by my usual method...replug in the magnito). Rode for a long time. Seadoo started shutting down at higher rpms...but would idle just fine...low voltage light came on. After a few seconds, low voltage light would go off...and I was able to accelerate. It did this several times. ??????
The battery may have a cell shorting, you can take that to an auto part store and
get a free load test to verify.
The most common reason the battery light stays on is that the rectifier/regulator assembly in the front grey box needs replacing.
And as that said, you should first test the charging of the good battery.
Step #1 is without the motor running, measure voltage in your battery. A simple voltmeter is available in every $10 multi-meter that is also a usefull tool in many ways solving electrical problems on your Sea Doo.
#2. knowing the static voltage in the battery now from your testing, start the engine and re-read the voltage at the battery at 5500 rpm or somewhere near that rpm if you do not have a tachometer. A Sea Doo engine like yours idles at 3000 rpm out of the water, so cracking the throttle a little bit will add 2500 more rpm in a heartbeat. Just keep it off the rev limiter.
If the voltage reading is higher than it was in a static test, but less than 15Vdc, your battery IS charging and that light should not stay on. FYI, all gauges and lights come on after installing the lanyard to show you they work, but idiot lights should go off as soon as you start the engine, or if you leave the lanyard on without starting the engine, 33 seconds later everything electrical will shut down automatically. To re-activate the electrical system, unplug and reconnect the lanyard. Your MPEM is bad, so in your case, the magnito plug.
If your charging system is not functioning, the most common problem is it needs a new rectifier/regulator assembly, about $50-$60 new. Simple to install as all 5 wires that you disconnect are color coded, 2 are yellow, 1 is yellow with a black tracer line, one is red, those 4 have pull apart bullett connectors. The last wire is black and is always the ground and has a ring terminal attached at the end of the wire. One 10mm screw holds it secured to the grey box, and another 10mm nut secures the ground to the central grounding post where you will find other black wires connected for grounding other items in the box.
Sometimes there can be other reasons that a charging system shows an idiot light. These are from a battery with a broken cell inside of it that intermittinly becomes detached from shaking ( not very common sitting on the trailer ). If the stator charging coils are damaged or shorted out, it will not produce power to send to the rectifier/regulator where it is converted from AC to DC Voltage, then regulated, then sent to charge the battery as the battery needs it. When the stator shorts out or is damaged, there will be a blown fuse on the face of the MPEM.
But one thing is constant when the charging system is working, there will be more voltage going into the battery than it had when the static test was taken, it may not be much more, but it will be more. How much depends upon how low the battery voltage gets.
Any rectifier/regulator pushing out 15 Vdc or more to the battery is toast, as well as most that cannot put out anything, The exception to that is the problem lies in the magneto housing or the wiring.
But by far, about 95% of the time the rectifier is the culprit. Bills86e
get a free load test to verify.
The most common reason the battery light stays on is that the rectifier/regulator assembly in the front grey box needs replacing.
And as that said, you should first test the charging of the good battery.
Step #1 is without the motor running, measure voltage in your battery. A simple voltmeter is available in every $10 multi-meter that is also a usefull tool in many ways solving electrical problems on your Sea Doo.
#2. knowing the static voltage in the battery now from your testing, start the engine and re-read the voltage at the battery at 5500 rpm or somewhere near that rpm if you do not have a tachometer. A Sea Doo engine like yours idles at 3000 rpm out of the water, so cracking the throttle a little bit will add 2500 more rpm in a heartbeat. Just keep it off the rev limiter.
If the voltage reading is higher than it was in a static test, but less than 15Vdc, your battery IS charging and that light should not stay on. FYI, all gauges and lights come on after installing the lanyard to show you they work, but idiot lights should go off as soon as you start the engine, or if you leave the lanyard on without starting the engine, 33 seconds later everything electrical will shut down automatically. To re-activate the electrical system, unplug and reconnect the lanyard. Your MPEM is bad, so in your case, the magnito plug.
If your charging system is not functioning, the most common problem is it needs a new rectifier/regulator assembly, about $50-$60 new. Simple to install as all 5 wires that you disconnect are color coded, 2 are yellow, 1 is yellow with a black tracer line, one is red, those 4 have pull apart bullett connectors. The last wire is black and is always the ground and has a ring terminal attached at the end of the wire. One 10mm screw holds it secured to the grey box, and another 10mm nut secures the ground to the central grounding post where you will find other black wires connected for grounding other items in the box.
Sometimes there can be other reasons that a charging system shows an idiot light. These are from a battery with a broken cell inside of it that intermittinly becomes detached from shaking ( not very common sitting on the trailer ). If the stator charging coils are damaged or shorted out, it will not produce power to send to the rectifier/regulator where it is converted from AC to DC Voltage, then regulated, then sent to charge the battery as the battery needs it. When the stator shorts out or is damaged, there will be a blown fuse on the face of the MPEM.
But one thing is constant when the charging system is working, there will be more voltage going into the battery than it had when the static test was taken, it may not be much more, but it will be more. How much depends upon how low the battery voltage gets.
Any rectifier/regulator pushing out 15 Vdc or more to the battery is toast, as well as most that cannot put out anything, The exception to that is the problem lies in the magneto housing or the wiring.
But by far, about 95% of the time the rectifier is the culprit. Bills86e
stang69
Member
Clean Carb filter screens
You may have already cleaned these in your line replacement process. But the nex thing to do is clean the small filter screens behind the Carb diaphrams as all the blach mush from the inside of the grey fuel lines is now captured in these two screens. Mine were 3/4 full of gunk when I replaced mine lines and I used carb cleaner to get rid of it all. Now the screens will have no restriction and the fuel will flow easily at medium and full throttle.:hurray:
You may have already cleaned these in your line replacement process. But the nex thing to do is clean the small filter screens behind the Carb diaphrams as all the blach mush from the inside of the grey fuel lines is now captured in these two screens. Mine were 3/4 full of gunk when I replaced mine lines and I used carb cleaner to get rid of it all. Now the screens will have no restriction and the fuel will flow easily at medium and full throttle.:hurray:
Alright...I have replaced all the gray fuel lines and cleaned the carb...the term green goo is accurate...it is nasty sticky. Seems worse around the brass/copper fittings. My Doo still runs like crap...New plugs have been thrown in. This has to be a spark issue. I am almost ready to throw in the towel...I have spent over 30 hours trying to get this thing right. This Doo starts up immediately...planes up out of the water super quick then gets to mid to high RPMs and after running at higher RPMs for about 10 seconds just returns to idle even with throttle pressed. Rev limiter...stator..where do I turn?
My experience...Buy a Seadoo...work on it 30 hours...it gives you 10 minutes of enjoyment.
My experience...Buy a Seadoo...work on it 30 hours...it gives you 10 minutes of enjoyment.
Davedestin
New Member
Clean Fuel Selector?
No expert here by any means, but did you clean the fuel selector switch/valve? I replaced all grey lines, cleaned filters and carb on a 97 GTI, but did not totally resolve my fueling problems until I replaced the fuel selector valve. There are other posts which mention cleaning or replacing it ( not a very expensive item based on what i recall...around $25). That would be my next move and is relatively simple.
No expert here by any means, but did you clean the fuel selector switch/valve? I replaced all grey lines, cleaned filters and carb on a 97 GTI, but did not totally resolve my fueling problems until I replaced the fuel selector valve. There are other posts which mention cleaning or replacing it ( not a very expensive item based on what i recall...around $25). That would be my next move and is relatively simple.
Last edited by a moderator:
does it change if you switch from main to reserve. mine does, I cleaned it and changed the grey lines chnged the filters because it would only run on reserve. now it runs bad on both. I am going to bypass the selector today and see what happens. I bought 2 97 GTX's so I have put in the hours also trying to get them running right. 1 is now good. cleaning the rave valves is what did it right. but of course that was after the carbs and grey fuel lines.
good luck I think its needed.
good luck I think its needed.
roccatanski
New Member
same issue 95 gts
i am having same issue with a 95 gts. idles fine but once you get to twenty mph will die. i have found that if the battery is charged the night before going out, it runs good. after 30 min of riding it will die after getting to speed. just wondering if that is due to coil or spark plug wires. if i find something that works with mine, will let you know.
i am having same issue with a 95 gts. idles fine but once you get to twenty mph will die. i have found that if the battery is charged the night before going out, it runs good. after 30 min of riding it will die after getting to speed. just wondering if that is due to coil or spark plug wires. if i find something that works with mine, will let you know.
Tore into my stator this evening. Looked good to me. Very few metal shavings...did clean the few I saw out. Inside had a light copper colored coating...assumed this looked normal. Ordering a fuel selector switch...even though I had cleaned mine really well. I tried to repair my MPEM...the diode that always gets fried. Had little difficulty getting to the diode (through the potting material. I ended up getting the platform where diode was to solder to, too hot. Need to order an aftermarket MPEM...any suggestions?
southernmiller2006
New Member
1997 seadoo gsi 717 no spark!!
Hey I just bought a 1997 seadoo gsi 717
it has no spark!!
I replaced the stator due to the guy i bought it from telling me that what the shop said was wrong
still no spark
tested spark plugs they are fine
I turned it over probing the white wire on the coil its not getting power now i lost can anyone please help??
http://www.seadooforum.com/images/smilies/icon_mad.gif
Hey I just bought a 1997 seadoo gsi 717
it has no spark!!
I replaced the stator due to the guy i bought it from telling me that what the shop said was wrong
still no spark
tested spark plugs they are fine
I turned it over probing the white wire on the coil its not getting power now i lost can anyone please help??
http://www.seadooforum.com/images/smilies/icon_mad.gif- Status
