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1995 Sea-Doo spi

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zrogers

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Hi I’m new here my 1995 Sea-Doo spi smokes a lot just cleaned the carb filter not sure what else to do?
 
it is a little tricky but not hard. if you pull up a carb rebuild video on utube for seadoo it will cover it. Oil pump should be just below you carbs. it has adjustment marks on it and is usually impossible to see without a mirror unless you pull the carbs.
 
You need the carbs on and everything hooked up to adjust it properly. Do a search on “Sea doo oil pump adjustment” and you’ll find a how-to...
 
You need the carbs on and everything hooked up to adjust it properly. Do a search on “Sea doo oil pump adjustment” and you’ll find a how-to...
When u pull the carbs on a seadoo, generally most two strokes, the carbs come off still attached to the intake as seadoo recommends as well as video. Very easy to adjust pump after that!
 
In order for the oil pump to be adjusted correctly, the carbs and all linkage need to be installed on the ski, and your idle needs to be set. Any time you move your idle adjustment screw, you need to go back and recheck the oil pump alignment marks and readjust as necessary. While it may be possible to remove the carb/manifold/oil pump assembly on the 587, you will have to disconnect the oil lines to do so, which means bleeding everything when reinstalled, and that’s a more involved process than just lining up the marks with everything in place.
 
In order for the oil pump to be adjusted correctly, the carbs and all linkage need to be installed on the ski, and your idle needs to be set. Any time you move your idle adjustment screw, you need to go back and recheck the oil pump alignment marks and readjust as necessary. While it may be possible to remove the carb/manifold/oil pump assembly on the 587, you will have to disconnect the oil lines to do so, which means bleeding everything when reinstalled, and that’s a more involved process than just lining up the marks with everything in place.
Make it harder for the guy if u want but it can be adjusted as an assembly! The marks are the marks ! Throttle is still attached! The only thing being removed is the throttle "cable!" from the intake /carb assembly. No idle screw is effected and or linkage.
 
I have never heard of anyone removing the intake manifold to remove the carbs an a seadoo.

You have to have the carbs on, idle set and oil pump cable connected to adjust the oil pump correctly.
 
Make it harder for the guy if u want but it can be adjusted as an assembly! The marks are the marks ! Throttle is still attached! The only thing being removed is the throttle "cable!" from the intake /carb assembly. No idle screw is effected and or linkage.

I appreciate you trying to be helpful, but you’re giving bad advice. Please be very careful about the information you put out there on the forum, just as I would suggest that everyone looking for advice is cautious about who they take it from... The forum regulars do a very good job of catching poor advice when it gets posted, but it’s far too easy for someone who’s in a hurry to run with bad info before one of the experts has a chance to step in and correct it.

I have NEVER removed a set of carbs while they were still attached to the intake manifold, and I’ve never seen it recommended. The rotary valve cover (intake manifold) should not be removed and replaced without replacing o rings and torquing everything back to spec.
 
When I took the carb off to clean it the cable that goes to the oil pump from the carb didn’t return like it had a spring is that normal
 
No, you need to remove the cable and rotate the lever arm past the point where the spring catches, and the reattach the cable. It’s one of those jobs a third hand would come in really nice for, but it can be done. You just have to hold the lever arm under tension while you slip the cable end in.
 
I appreciate you trying to be helpful, but you’re giving bad advice. Please be very careful about the information you put out there on the forum, just as I would suggest that everyone looking for advice is cautious about who they take it from... The forum regulars do a very good job of catching poor advice when it gets posted, but it’s far too easy for someone who’s in a hurry to run with bad info before one of the experts has a chance to step in and correct it.

I have NEVER removed a set of carbs while they were still attached to the intake manifold, and I’ve never seen it recommended. The rotary valve cover (intake manifold) should not be removed and replaced without replacing o rings and torquing everything back to spec.
Whatever bud, make it harder for 'em, i never said not replace orings and tork back, hence the "tricky statement. I'll leave 'er right there. Regards.
 
Whatever bud, make it harder for 'em, i never said not replace orings and tork back, hence the "tricky statement. I'll leave 'er right there. Regards.

I understand this can make it easier initially but the big issue is air leaks. You should never remove and reinstall an intake manifold on a ski without doing a leakdown test on the engine as it is a very common place for them to leak. Also if they pull the intake on some models then you have the possibility of messing up the rotary valve timing. It just opens up another can of worms for people that are having a difficult time as it is.
 
Hi I’m new here my 1995 Sea-Doo spi smokes a lot just cleaned the carb filter not sure what else to do?

I assume you are seeing the ski smoking while sitting and running on a trailer?

Can you clarify for me...."carb filter"? - You took the carb(s) off and cleaned the little internal filter(s) and put it(them) back on? OR do you mean the fuel/water separator in the front compartment?

Can you verify that the little oil lines from the oil pump into the engine are full of oil?
 
I assume you are seeing the ski smoking while sitting and running on a trailer?

Can you clarify for me...."carb filter"? - You took the carb(s) off and cleaned the little internal filter(s) and put it(them) back on? OR do you mean the fuel/water separator in the front compartment?

Can you verify that the little oil lines from the oil pump into the engine are full of oil?

I’ve cleaned both fuel filters and yes on a trailer and the oil tank is about half or more full
 
I understand this can make it easier initially but the big issue is air leaks. You should never remove and reinstall an intake manifold on a ski without doing a leakdown test on the engine as it is a very common place for them to leak. Also if they pull the intake on some models then you have the possibility of messing up the rotary valve timing. It just opens up another can of worms for people that are having a difficult time as it is.
 
I’ve cleaned both fuel filters and yes on a trailer and the oil tank is about half or more full

He’s asking about the small tygon lines that run from the pump to the manifold... He wants to know if you are getting oil flow, which I believe you actually have too much of...
 
My ski smokes like crazy on the trailer, will literally fog up my yard but in the water its fine.

If your crank seals are slowly seeping, you will get quite a bit of smoke on initial startup, and it will go away after the motor gets enough load on it to heat up and burn everything out. That may be the case here...
 
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