1995 GTX No-Start

[amurph01]

First off, thanks to everyone for posting on this forum I’ve been able to gather a wealth of information in an incredibly short time. Now on to the issue I’m having.

I bought a non-running 1995 GTX a month or so ago ($400 w/ trailer). I got it home and emptied the fuel and oil tanks and replaced with new (previous owner said it hadn’t run in years). After that I replace all of the gray fuel lines, rebuilt the carbs with genuine mikuni parts and kept the original spring in there. I replaced the beeper and fuel selector valve. I got a new battery hooked it up and it wouldn’t start just a click at the solenoid. I bought a new solenoid and still just a click with no start but the click on the new solenoid is very very faint. I replaced the MPEM, CDI, negative battery cable, and cleaned connections on positive cables. Still no start. I can jump both old and new solenoids and the engine turns over. My question is what should I check next? I get continuity at the starter positive post when pressing the start button and battery voltage doesn’t go below 12.9. I checked and cleaned all of the connections in the ebox but didn’t see anything obvious.

 

[1of500]

Hook up your meter and check for input to the solenoid was the ebox all rusty like it was submerged

 

[amurph01]

Hook up your meter and check for input to the solenoid was the ebox all rusty like it was submerged

So I have 12.95 at the battery side of the solenoid post and when I press the start button my meter reads a value (I’ve seen anywhere from 0.1-0.5) on the starter side for a split second but then goes to 0. Should I be seeing 12+ volts there? My meter is a cheap unit so I just figured it couldn’t capture the split second surge of power. This happens on both the old and new solenoids. Also no rust in the ebox.

 

[1of500]

I'm referring to the control wires to the mpem that make the relay close if you don't have enough power coming in it will not complete the circuit

 

[amurph01]

That’s the yellow/red wire that is part of the plug that goes in to the solenoid? If so yes I get a signal at that wire when I press the start button.

 

[1of500]

What voltage

 

[amurph01]

Just tried it now and got 12.08 V

 

[1of500]

Sounds like either a bad connection where it plugs up or your new relay is bad is it oem or aftermarket?

 

[amurph01]

I got the new solenoid from Bay Area powersports so I’m assuming aftermarket... on their site the part number matched with the part number in the seadoo parts manual. Comparing the number on the back of the solenoids the new one does not match the one the ski came with though.

 

[1of500]

Personally I would never buy anything from bay area powersports they burned me on some mikuni carb kits that were supposed to be oem but weren't then blocked me so did jet ski plus....
Try one from osd parts

 

[amurph01]

Ok I’ll order one now and write back on here what the results are. Thanks for the help!

 

[1of500]

One other thing you should disconnect your cables and check resistance the deteriorate from the inside out

 

[amurph01]

Got a new solenoid and the engine turns over! So looks like the original one was bad, then the new I got was bad and now the second new solenoid works. Now to start researching and diagnosing why it’s not starting. Thanks again for the help.

 

[1of500]

Get an inline spark tester. Also you should probably pull the boots for the plugs trim 1/4" off the wire and reinstall the boot to the wire end

 

[POPPS]

Is it a 720?.......I would check and clean every electrical connection,,,male and female sides,,,your spark should be a nice blue/white,,,,Is it getting fuel?...does it want to start if I you pour some premix into the cylinders?...just some ideas.

 

[amurph01]

Awesome thanks! I got the spark plug wires done and poured some premix in the carbs and it started right up. So I connected the hose and ran it for 2-3 minutes. A couple observations. There was a TON of white smoke. Seemed to lessen a little the longer it ran but not much. The clamp on the exhaust where the upper pipe meets the lower pipe is missing so I ordered a replacement. I think I need to look at my oil pump adjustment, I might just be dumping oil and that’s the cause for the white smoke. Any other things to look at? And my compression is 100 in the rear cylinder and 105 in the front cylinder. Is there anything else (other than needing to rebuild the top end) that could be causing this and the white smoke?

 

[amurph01]

Is it a 720?.......I would check and clean every electrical connection,,,male and female sides,,,your spark should be a nice blue/white,,,,Is it getting fuel?...does it want to start if I you pour some premix into the cylinders?...just some ideas.

It’s a 657x.

 

[amurph01]

Also as a note I’m at 5300’ elevation so I don’t know what effect that has on the compression numbers.

 

[1of500]

If it was fogged there would be a ton of white smoke. Compression numbers are not good I would get a different Guage just to verify

 

[amurph01]

If it was fogged there would be a ton of white smoke. Compression numbers are not good I would get a different Guage just to verify

Ok will do. It was an Amazon gauge. Try out autozone or do you have another suggestion for where to get a quality gauge? I did spray fogging oil a week or so ago when I put in the new solenoid and thought I was going to get it running. Any estimate for how long it needs to run for the fogging oil to dissipate/burn off?

 

[1of500]

Snapon makes the best one bur they are expensive.

 

[etemplet]

YOu might have a leaking internal crankshaft seal. Might not be all that serious. Good Luck with it, glad you got it started.