1995 GTX,New Solenoid and starter, and still clicks.

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1986toyotapickup

New Member
I apologize for asking more questions, but my 95 GTX's solenoid is STILL clicking after installing a new solenoid and starter. I used a multimeter and got the following readings, 12.32 volts to the solenoid, 12.08 volts to the starter. Bear in mind that the starter was connected to power but not to the engine so there was no load on it at all. I don't know if the parasitical loss in voltage can effect the electrical system, but I think that the cable from the solenoid to the starter is bad? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also, where can I find a new solenoid-to-starter cable if needed?
 
If you have the parts manual, its free online, just google search the part number. I believe I bought one off eBay, it was not to bad of a price. Also, have you load tested the battery? Even a new battery can be bad. Auto parts store do it for free. Next, I am not sure how much you know about the engine, does it turn over by hand? If you don't know, take the spark plugs out and rotate at the rear of the motor, it should rotate fairly easy. Starter wont do anything against a locked up motor. Is the starter OEM? Solenoid, is it OEM? I have had two solenoids be bad right out the box (non OEM), parts are just crap now a days! Also, check your grounds and make sure they are clean and tight. If you don't have history with this ski, then I would take each ground off, clean the area and cable and reinstall. Grounds can be an issue with skis. Also, verify you have good connections at your coil and solenoid, my ski has three wires going to the coil, all three need to make good contact for the motor to start, That was one of my issues last year, it was a bear to figure out.

Check back in and let us know how it is going.
 
The engine will turn over by hand, I replaced the OEM solenoid with an aftermarket one, but the starter was not oem originally so I put another aftermarket one in it. The solenoid works and so does the starter, i know this from testing the solenoid with a multimeter and bench tested the starter. I still have not checked the coil, can the coil cause less power to be sent to the starter? How do i test the positive lead that runs from the solenoid to the starter? Worst case scenario, the MPEM is toast. I do know that this ski has been jumped many times, but started last time before it sat about 2 years ago. Still fairly new to repairing skis. Also, I am only aware of a single ground which is where the negative battery terminal connects to the block, is there any more?
 
Grim said:
If you have the parts manual, its free online, just google search the part number. I believe I bought one off eBay, it was not to bad of a price. Also, have you load tested the battery? Even a new battery can be bad. Auto parts store do it for free. Next, I am not sure how much you know about the engine, does it turn over by hand? If you don't know, take the spark plugs out and rotate at the rear of the motor, it should rotate fairly easy. Starter wont do anything against a locked up motor. Is the starter OEM? Solenoid, is it OEM? I have had two solenoids be bad right out the box (non OEM), parts are just crap now a days! Also, check your grounds and make sure they are clean and tight. If you don't have history with this ski, then I would take each ground off, clean the area and cable and reinstall. Grounds can be an issue with skis. Also, verify you have good connections at your coil and solenoid, my ski has three wires going to the coil, all three need to make good contact for the motor to start, That was one of my issues last year, it was a bear to figure out.ett

Check back in and let us know how it is going.
Click to expand...

Grim said:
If you have the parts manual, its free online, just google search the part number. I believe I bought one off eBay, it was not to bad of a price. Also, have you load tested the battery? Even a new battery can be bad. Auto parts store do it for free. Next, I am not sure how much you know about the engine, does it turn over by hand? If you don't know, take the spark plugs out and rotate at the rear of the motor, it should rotate fairly easy. Starter wont do anything against a locked up motor. Is the starter OEM? Solenoid, is it OEM? I have had two solenoids be bad right out the box (non OEM), parts are just crap now a days! Also, check your grounds and make sure they are clean and tight. If you don't have history with this ski, then I would take each ground off, clean the area and cable and reinstall. Grounds can be an issue with skis. Also, verify you have good connections at your coil and solenoid, my ski has three wires going to the coil, all three need to make good contact for the motor to start, That was one of my issues last year, it was a bear to figure out.

Check back in and let us know how it is going.
Click to expand...
Verified all connections, sanded all the other grounds I found, used a multimeter and confirmed im gettin 12 volts through out the system, and still clicks. Im definitely starting to think its a bad mpem :( but also maybe the new starter is toast due to it not doing anything when i bench tested it a second time
 
Did you load test the battery? Its free to do at an auto parts store.
The starter does sound suspect now too. Can you find a used OEM one?, ebay search the part number, I found one pretty cheap for mine there.
 
Last edited:
When you tested the voltage drop did you engage the starter and check voltage from the battery side of the solenoid to the starter terminal? What you could have done is tignten the battery terminal on the starter too much and twisted the brush connector wire. If it touches the side of the starter it won't work. You'll have to pull the end cap off the starter to determine if that is a problem. BUT.... you can remove the hot wire to the starter and move the stud a bit. I'd check that only if you think you may have tightened the terminal overzealously. :D Cheap starters are nothing but trouble anyway. Good Luck !!
 
Heres what ive done, Sanded grounds, checked voltage to starter, changed positive connection to mpem. And still, with the starter out, I am getting the same click. Battery is fine. Either the chinese starter is trash or my mpem is bad. I am getting 12 volts to the starter. Ordered oem starter off ebay. I am stumped as of now. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
 
1986toyotapickup said:
Heres what ive done, Sanded grounds, checked voltage to starter, changed positive connection to mpem. And still, with the starter out, I am getting the same click. Battery is fine. Either the chinese starter is trash or my mpem is bad. I am getting 12 volts to the starter. Ordered oem starter off ebay. I am stumped as of now. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...
I’m definitely no expert but I would think if your getting 12 volts to the starter then it would have to be the starter Is bad
 
MPEMs are expensive. If your solenoid is getting the signal and pulling in the MPEM is working. As I mentioned... the brush holder terminal can rotate as you tighten the positive connector to the battery. I would remove the cable from the starter and rotate the nut/terminal about 60 degrees and see what happens.
 
1986toyotapickup said:
How do i test the positive lead that runs from the solenoid to the starter?
Click to expand...
I think it would be worth it to remove that cable and temporarily replace it with a car jumper cable from the solenoid post to the starter positive post and see if you get the starter to crank the engine using the start button.
 
artr said:
I think it would be worth it to remove that cable and temporarily replace it with a car jumper cable from the solenoid post to the starter positive post and see if you get the starter to crank the engine using the start button.
Click to expand...
Could you not test it with a multimeter first continuity? Would it not be right close to 0 Ohms?
 
A multimeter tests with a very low current and might show close to 0 ohms. It would not show if the cable was internally deteriorated and will not pass the high current that the starter requires.
 
artr said:
A multimeter tests with a very low current and might show close to 0 ohms. It would not show if the cable was internally deteriorated and will not pass the high current that the starter requires.
Click to expand...
Exactly. They are sneaky. :D
 
@2strokeboy I jumped the solenoid and no turning over. I have a stupid question, does the starter have to be connected to the engine block to actually turn over? Ive only tested it while the starter is out to see if it will spin. Im guessing it needs to be grounded? Also, i opened the old starter and it was corroded. No wonder it wasnt working, also the third screw behind the starter that connects to the block was missing.
 
make sure the connecting points of where the starter is connected/bolted to the engine is not corroded or the hole it goes into
 
2strokeboy said:
make sure the connecting points of where the starter is connected/bolted to the engine is not corroded or the hole it goes into
Click to expand...
The schematic for your ski also shows a black battery cable running from the battery negative to that same connection point you are cleaning up. That cable is the main ground for the engine and starter.
 
Great News !! 120psi is low but you have to factor in the accuracy of your gauge. I'd ride and and monitor. If compression is a problem you'll have issues starting the engine when hot and on the water. RIDE IT !! :) and enjoy !!
 
Great to hear! I would do what etemplet said because your gauge might not be very accurate. Also definitely change out the gas lines before you really ride it they cause lots of carb problems.
 
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