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1994 Seadoo XP 657x- stator reading results.. good or bad?

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Czvas

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I am new to this forum, thought I would try and rack some knowledge of more talented Seadoo riders/mechanics
The problem I am having, is about 2-3 minutes after start up, machine bogs right down. Let sit for a day and does the same thing. Im thinking its electrical because Ive done everything in the fuel system, vent system and carbs.

Ive moved onto the stator and done testing
yellow/black to yellow - .05-.6 ohm - in spec
black/red to white - 2.8 - 4.2 ohm - in spec
Black to ground - open resistance - in spec
white to ground - open resistance ---------------- Im getting 157.8 ohms (way out of spec)
black/red to black - 120-180 ohms - in spec

Does this mean the stator is bad? Any ideas?
Also, the rectifier only goes to 13.5v? could the stator cause the rectifier not to charge over 14V?

What Ive already done
- tank pulled, cleaned dry, new float in baffle
- new gas lines/ vent lines
- carbs sonic cleaned and new kits/needle/seat
- new fuel selector
 
Just a couple thoughts:

Did you use genuine mikuni parts for your carb rebuilds? Aftermarket carb rebuild kits are notorious for making problems worse.
Have you confirmed the high and low jets are clear and other passages as well after cleaning? Did you test pop off pressure?

Its possible that the white wire out of spec could be an issue, im not certain, but i believe the white wire controls the rev limiter, but again im not certain hopefully someone else can weigh in.
 
I did indeed use genuine mikuni carb rebuilt kits.
Im 99.9% sure all passages are clear as Ive rebuilt it twice, but i have never done a pop off pressure test though. What psi should it be?
 
Did you reuse your original black springs when u rebuilt the carbs. If you didn’t swap them back in. Your within spec at 13.5
 
I am new to this forum, thought I would try and rack some knowledge of more talented Seadoo riders/mechanics
The problem I am having, is about 2-3 minutes after start up, machine bogs right down. Let sit for a day and does the same thing. Im thinking its electrical because Ive done everything in the fuel system, vent system and carbs.

Ive moved onto the stator and done testing
yellow/black to yellow - .05-.6 ohm - in spec
black/red to white - 2.8 - 4.2 ohm - in spec
Black to ground - open resistance - in spec
white to ground - open resistance ---------------- Im getting 157.8 ohms (way out of spec)
black/red to black - 120-180 ohms - in spec

Does this mean the stator is bad? Any ideas?
Also, the rectifier only goes to 13.5v? could the stator cause the rectifier not to charge over 14V?

What Ive already done
- tank pulled, cleaned dry, new float in baffle
- new gas lines/ vent lines
- carbs sonic cleaned and new kits/needle/seat
- new fuel selector
Check the a/c voltage from the stator while engine is running...see what it does on different rpm's
 
It’s sounds like your running out of fuel. On a fully charged battery you shouldn’t have a performance drop I 2 or 3 minutes. Verify that you are getting fuel. Bypass everything and run straight to the reserve on the tank. The most important thing on any ski is not to run lean. You will toast your pistons. Is your new fuel selector oem. Most aftermarket ones are junk.. Also make sure your battery is good. Also verify that your getting oil injection. It will heat up quick if the Oiler is plugged and drop in performance.
 
It’s sounds like your running out of fuel. On a fully charged battery you shouldn’t have a performance drop I 2 or 3 minutes. Verify that you are getting fuel. Bypass everything and run straight to the reserve on the tank. The most important thing on any ski is not to run lean. You will toast your pistons. Is your new fuel selector oem. Most aftermarket ones are junk.. Also make sure your battery is good. Also verify that your getting oil injection. It will heat up quick if the Oiler is plugged and drop in performance.


The battery is brand new, and Ive tried that as well, ran straight from res to carb, eliminated the selector. Oil is pumping because she smokes and I have been keeping an eye and having to top up.
 
Check that pop off. :) I've been experimenting with that and it makes a difference even in the spec range.
 
- carbs sonic cleaned and new kits/needle/seat

Hi, I am interested in the sonic cleaning of the carbs. Did you send them out or do you have access to such equipment? Info is appreciated.

Your problem sounds fuel related to me as well. Do you have an inline fuel filter, aftermarket type? I had this on my 587 and it was nothing but trouble. Thew it away and the ski ran great. I guess my filter had too fine a mesh for the application.
 
I am thinking if the battery has a full charge before you launch the ski on the lake and she runs fine your carb is set up good along with un restricked fuel supply.
If she starts dying while running and re starts and dye's again,we have a low battery issue here...mine is doing that so I ordered a rectifier for 20 bucks,maybe this will put me back on the Lake?
 
Hi, I am interested in the sonic cleaning of the carbs. Did you send them out or do you have access to such equipment? Info is appreciated.

Your problem sounds fuel related to me as well. Do you have an inline fuel filter, aftermarket type? I had this on my 587 and it was nothing but trouble. Thew it away and the ski ran great. I guess my filter had too fine a mesh for the application.

I have a buddy that has a sonic machine. I am located in Toronto, not sure where abouts you are.

Just oem fuel filter and it's a new screen.
 
I installed a new stator, rectifier, new boots
On the ignition coil to the plugs and still bogging... Any ideas where to go next??
 
What is your pop off pressure reading...what is your low jet set at...high jet set closed...low jet set 1 1/8 out...replace spark plugs..what is your compression reading
 
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