1994 Sea Doors XP 657X no spark (and other problems)

[JeromeSt]

This isn't exactly how I wanted to make my first post, but I'm at a complete loss. I have a 1994 XP with absolutely no spark, I cannot figure out why, and I can't find anyone who actually knows anything about Sea Doos of this vintage in my area. The diagnostic information in the official Sea Doo shop manual is mostly useless to me because it revolves around the assumption that you have all of the specific tools from Bombardier. I have the double coil ignition system with a separate amplifier and coil. The following will outline what I have observed so far.

I probed with a test light to check for power, and found that i don't seem to have voltage going to the coil from the amplifier. I do seem to have voltage getting to the amplifier across the white wire. I do not seem to have voltage across the black/red wire. Checking using a test light also yielded no output from the stator, or so it seems. I do not know if this is normal. This is a new/aftermarket stator from SBT, which I hoped would address the issue, but no dice. I have also installed a used amplifier out of an identical model. The battery is a less than a year old, and has recently been recharged outside of the craft, then reinstalled. That is all that has been replaced.

I really need help with this. I have some background in marine repair, but I know very little about PWCs, and I've really wanted to put this one back in the water.

 

[Coastiejoe]

You joined the right place. We have some very knowledgable 2-stroke guys. They will give you great guidance.

 

[JeromeSt]

Anything that could point me in the right direction, even if it means starting from square one. Not that I can be sure I ever made it past that point. It's worth mentioning that I'm not the kind to throw things away just because, so my old stator and amplifier are just riding around in my Outback if necessary.

 

[Coastiejoe]

If one of the 2-stroke guys doesn't help this evening, I'll ping them so they can find your post.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Okay, your approach is bang on, you've just overlooked something perhaps very simple such as the lanyard switch is malfunctioning.

Keep up the good work and hang onto those old parts for a rainy day! Yeah maybe you need some Seadoo tools but outside a major rebuild most can be improvised. Some of the later service manuals are much improved I think, hints and tricks included but you'll have to read between the lines in many cases due to "improvements" made over the years.

Another hint, if it's been used in salty environment to an extent, this will take a toll and corrosion no doubt will be an issue. Appropriate corrective action anticipated and required in this case.

Carburetion and fuel system will and or has become an issue if not already addressed, the oil injection system rubber tubing has to be replaced, etc., all the normal stuff, FWIW.

Check cylinder compression, this can help you avoid spending time and money on something you're unwilling to see through to the end. Personally, I believe the old skis were the best but keep in mind they're no longer the fastest. I dunno man, my old 1995 was plenty-o-fast for me, who needs 70+mph, WUWT?

 

[worzel1]

Do you have a multimeter? Use that and check the specs as referred to in the manual, you are unlikely to find the fault with a test light. Check the coil, stator, mpem and amplifier with a multimeter first.

 

[JeromeSt]

Do you have a multimeter? Use that and check the specs as referred to in the manual, you are unlikely to find the fault with a test light. Check the coil, stator, mpem and amplifier with a multimeter first.

I have a multimeter. However, the manual I have does not include a table of values for resistance or voltage for anything aside from the MPEM. If you have the specifications and a test procedure, I believe I could go from there and report back the results.

Do you have a multimeter? Use that and check the specs as referred to in the manual, you are unlikely to find the fault with a test light. Check the coil, stator, mpem and amplifier with a multimeter first.

 

[JeromeSt]

Okay, your approach is bang on, you've just overlooked something perhaps very simple such as the lanyard switch is malfunctioning.

Keep up the good work and hang onto those old parts for a rainy day! Yeah maybe you need some Seadoo tools but outside a major rebuild most can be improvised. Some of the later service manuals are much improved I think, hints and tricks included but you'll have to read between the lines in many cases due to "improvements" made over the years.

Another hint, if it's been used in salty environment to an extent, this will take a toll and corrosion no doubt will be an issue. Appropriate corrective action anticipated and required in this case.

Carburetion and fuel system will and or has become an issue if not already addressed, the oil injection system rubber tubing has to be replaced, etc., all the normal stuff, FWIW.

Check cylinder compression, this can help you avoid spending time and money on something you're unwilling to see through to the end. Personally, I believe the old skis were the best but keep in mind they're no longer the fastest. I dunno man, my old 1995 was plenty-o-fast for me, who needs 70+mph, WUWT?

This is purely a freshwater ski. My father gave it to me. After he replaced the motor it blew out a pump seal, so he put it away. That was in 1996. I got it from him in 2010. The new motor still had cross hatch marks from being honed when I took the head off. Aside from a little bad gas, the fuel system was completely clean. I took the carbs apart and they were clean. The fuel pump diaphragms were still in great shape. All I really had to do was rebuild the jet pump and put a new wear ring in, and it ran beautifully. Before I stored it in winter, I would run the fuel lines dry and fog it. I haven't had any trouble until this past season when this all started.

 

[worzel1]

If you remove the caps from the end of the ignition leads and test between them it should read between 9-15k ohms, you must remove caps as they are resistance caps. Other than that there is no other way to test other than dealer tool or replacement.
Also if it is in spec it can still be faulty which is why I just replaced mine.

 

[JeromeSt]

Going on a hunch I had running through my head at work that revolved around something I read about these double coil ignition systems and something I discovered during diagnostics last season, I tried swapping the old stator back in, and with the new amplifier installed, it ran for the first time in a very long time.

As it turned out, it was the amplifier. I do not know what exactly happened to it, but it went dead. I'm hoping to Lake test it this evening after work. Just in case, I'll be bringing my Atwood collapsible paddle lol

 

[wfo speedracer]

There is a wire that goes from the MPEM to the ignition coil I believe on 657's it is white disconnect the wire and see if you have spark, if you do the rev limiter circuit in the MPEM is toast.

 

[JeromeSt]

There is a wire that goes from the MPEM to the ignition coil I believe on 657's it is white disconnect the wire and see if you have spark, if you do the rev limiter circuit in the MPEM is toast.

MPEM is fine, thankfully. I found it was a combination of a failed amplifier and a pinched black/red wire on a replacement stator I had installed. I put the old stator back on and installed a replacement amplifier.