1994 GTX Oil Pump Questions

[Thorgtx]

I have a 1994 GTX that I resurrected after purchasing it with a hole in the Mag Piston. After replacing both pistons/rings, honing the cylinders, splitting the case to clean out aluminum, cleaning the carbs and other fuel system parts, replacing the gray fuel lines, cleaning out the oil tank and replacing the oil filter and lines, the GTX now runs great. I am still running 45:1 premix along with the oil injection.

I continue to notice an air bubble in the very small oil lines where they enter the rotary valve. When it runs, the bubbles go away, but come back after turning off the engine. I disconnected these lines and they do pump oil when running at a high rpm so oil is flowing through these lines. I am also noticing oil consumption from the tank. I just want to be sure it is working correctly before I go away from Pre Mix.

Now my questions. 1) Is the air bubble that forms in the small oil line a concern?
2) I tried to look to see if the oil pump alignment marks line up, any tricks to do this? Is removal of the airbox necessary?
3) With all the messing around I have been doing pushing the oil pump lever, I seem to have kinked the oil pump cable. Now the oil pump sometimes sticks on for a while. Should I replace the cable?

Thanks again.

 

[Dr Honda]

1) Shouldn't be a problem. Depending on how you routed the hoses... it's probably just dribbling out the tip, and into the manifold. Since you verified that you are pumping... the needed oil is in the engine.

2) Use an inspection mirror. It's the only way to do it. You should be able to do it with the airbox on.

3) Yes. If you kinked the cable... you don't want to take the chance that it's not at the proper position. You could try to straighten out the cable.

 

[Thorgtx]

Update: I disconnected the cable at the oil pump lever. The lever did not spring back very easily even with the cable removed. So I took off the 4 bolts holding the rotary valve cover on and lifted the rotary valve cover, carbs, and oil pump up out of the engine compartment. It seems that the cable is not badly kinked as I expected but the oil pump lever just works hard. I also think the return spring is somewhat damaged. What are my options here? Can I just eliminate the whole pump and go to premix?

 

[Thorgtx]

Should the oil pump lever turn very easily when not hooked up to the cable and when the return spring is removed? Mine feels kinda gritty and the return spring is not strong enough to pull it back.

 

[Bills86e]

Without the spring catch on the lever, will spin 360*. When attached you turn counter clockwise and attach oil throttle cable.

OIL PUMP LEVER SPRING
The spring has a curl catch on the mid of the lever. the lever turns from 9 o'clock
and you should feel more pressure as you turn it to 6, then 3 o'clock, even tho
without the spring it will 360*. The oil throttle cable alignment marks at carb idle
is lever at 5:30, just adjust the nut. At 3 o'clock is a lug with the alignment mark
to align the lever and that lug is what the springs lower curl catches under.
Picture link:
http://pwctoday.com/f15/put-my-carb...have-question-about-oil-injection-166490.html