05 rxt 8000rpms but only 59mph?

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Status
Not open for further replies.
You can see the dings and jagged edges in the picture I posted. they look small but causes lots of cavitation. It doesn't take much; any amount of cavitation coming through the pump will cause serious performance issues- and ANY damage to the impeller will cause cavitation and loss in performance. i consider this impeller trash... Like mentioned above, you can't just bend the impeller back to a "close enough" shape. your impeller is trash. the price to have it reworked isn't much less than a new impeller. i picked up that polished 13/18 from SBT for $160. i didnt waste time trying to clean this impeller up. On another note, a lot of people look through the rear pump and see not much gap between the impeller and ring, but if you check behind the impeller, it's a much different story. as you can see in my pics- the front of the ring is worn way more than the back. a 1/32 gap will cause performance issues. my new impeller literally touches the new steel ring. do whatever you want- it's your ski, but this lessen will eventually end with you replacing the impeller & ring. ;)
Well, I suppose you may be right because I just checked the sc on the bench and I'm getting about 65inlb of slip:confused:
 
Wonder why it would be under 50 on the ski but 65 off? It was good and heated up when I checked it on the ski, I had just got off the lake.

I suppose I'll look into an impeller and wear ring.

Just seems so odd to me because on my rxdi, the impeller is in worse shape than the rxt, yet it still reaches top rpm and speed.
 
The clutch pressure on the gear is created by 5 metal spring washers. When they get hot, they lose a little bit of spring pressure.
The higher hp engines are very sensitive to impellers being perfect.
 
The clutch pressure on the gear is created by 5 metal spring washers. When they get hot, they lose a little bit of spring pressure.
The higher hp engines are very sensitive to impellers being perfect.
Gotcha. I suppose I'll stick the sc back in and save the rebuild kit for later down the road.

I have a brand new Adonis 13/19 impeller, and stainless steel wear ring on the way.
So, we shall see if you and Beergut are right!
 
Well, i got the SS wear ring in and the brand new Adonis 13/19 impeller installed. (The white chalky looking stuff is lithium grease).

I must say..I can't see any tighter clearance between the ring and the impeller on this new setup vs the old one...
I will be quite shocked if this actually makes up for the 7 or 8 mph loss I am seeing..

I'll chime back in tomorrow after I get her on the lake.
20200423_202247.jpg
 
Just as I suspected, this made no difference. Still only hitting 60mph tops around 7400 to 7600rpms.

Great advice on the wear ring and impeller that I'm certain I didn't need guys -____-


Back to the drawing board for me. Looking into compression and fuel pressure today.
 
But a drop of oil in each cylinder before doing compression again
Those numbers look a little low they are ok for general riding but don’t expect to get performance out of the machine
 
That’s normal the fuel pump module has a fuel pump regulator
Yes the compression will go up and that confirms if your piston rings are worn or you have leaking valves
Best way is to use leak down tester
 
That’s normal the fuel pump module has a fuel pump regulator
Yes the compression will go up and that confirms if your piston rings are worn or you have leaking valves
Best way is to use leak down tester
Ok, something weird is going on. Here's what I did.

I ran the ski on the trailer for about 1 minute. Shut it off, pulled 1 plug at a time, checked compression. I DID NOT put any oil in the cylinders.

Here's what I came up with this time, 135, 125, 130.

What gives? Again I got these numbers without putting oil in the cylinders
Is it because it was slightly warmed up this time?
If so, then what is my true compression??
 
Seems to me my compression is fine and should be performing top.
The engine does pull hard, idle perfect too. It doesn't seem like low compression to me. But what do I know.

I checked for intercooler leak by pulling the charge pipe off the throttle body and hooked water hose to it, revved it. No water comes out at all.

Any other recommendations on what to check for? I'm tired of throwing money at the wind now lol
 
You do know that the slip minimum is 44 in-lbs, right. I've seen them under 40 and they still worked fine. Your impeller is not in good shape and needs either rebuilt or replaced. You can't just bend them back to what looks good and expect them to be fine.
May I ask where you you got 44inlb minimum slip??
Everywhere I'm seeing is 8nm to 12nm specs. Which is 70inlb minimum.

Finding this information leads me to believe the SC was my problem from the start...and your comment lead me to stray away from the actual issue.

Again, this my assumption because I cant find anywhere saying the stock SC slip minimum is 44inlb...please show me where you got that information at.
 
Here are my 2 sources stating the slip should be 8nm to 12nm.
One is from 3ftdeep himself.
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20200425-161223_Samsung Internet.jpg
    Screenshot_20200425-161223_Samsung Internet.jpg
    783.7 KB · Views: 5
  • Screenshot_20200425-161236_YouTube.jpg
    Screenshot_20200425-161236_YouTube.jpg
    1 MB · Views: 6
Can anyone comment on the ACTUAL sc slip spec for a bone stock 05 rxt? I am about to pull the sc (again) :mad: and rebuild it but would like to know the real spec before doing so
 
The 44 in-lbs comes directly from the 2006 seadoo manual. Lots of good info there.

That is the minimum spec for the ceramic washers.

If you are rebuilding with the updated washers, you have to follow the newer specs which are higher. Note that there are new values and used values due to break in decreases the value.

What are you using to verify your exact speed?
 
Last edited:
Interesting..anyways I have rebuilt the sc and my slippage is now 120inlbs!

I feel more confident that this will fix my problem. I will know come tomorrow when I get to the lake
 
The 44 in-lbs comes directly from the 2006 seadoo manual. Lots of good info there.

That is the minimum spec for the ceramic washers.

If you are rebuilding with the updated washers, you have to follow the newer specs which are higher. Note that there are new values and used values due to break in decreases the value.

What are you using to verify your exact speed?
I am using 2 GPS apps on my phone. I can't see it in real time because I don't have a phone mount, however they show me my top speed after I do a pull. They are correct and accurate. I've verified this by using them while I drive my truck and car. They match my speedometers on my vehicles perfectly.
 
Just as I suspected, this made no difference. Still only hitting 60mph tops around 7400 to 7600rpms.

Great advice on the wear ring and impeller that I'm certain I didn't need guys -____-


Back to the drawing board for me. Looking into compression and fuel pressure today.

the advice was sound given the symptoms you had. it was also one the cheapest remedies given the alternatives. the symptoms you described can be caused by many things. the mph you say you're losing is pretty insignificant; there's literally dozens of things that can cause that small fluctuation in mph. Also- the 13/19 impeller is a holeshot prop- a lower pitch (13) raises the rpm, giving you a boost from the hole but reduced top speed (the rpm's max sooner equaling less speed), so you're looking at a reduced top end speed with that alone- best of luck with your continuing diag.
some info on impeller pitch. How Impellers work & choosing the correct one


------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Last edited:
I can only agree with beergut, a great mechanic without proper specs can never repair an impeller. Period. I raced for 6 years, (Pro Runabout, Seadoo's only) any pitting will cause a loss in performance. A tweaked or dinged impeller will dramatically reduce holeshot and top end speed. The wear ring and clearance will also effect performance. My team had multiple impellers for either a hole shot closed course, or for an open water big wave off shore course. If you want arm pulling hole shot, totally different impeller than a top speed impeller. hope this helps, sometimes looking beyond the obvious puts you back two or three steps.
Crockett #128
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top