01 Rx just clicks

[dsteinmann]

Yes But I would try one more battery, and do not jump it

 

[rckstr]

Took a battery off my new zero turn. Same results.

 

[rckstr]

Using an Ohm meter, should the solenoid have continuity? I put each test prong on each side of the solenoid where the red wires come in and go out. no continuity.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Need more info,,,

What do the volts drop to across the battery terminals when trying to crank/start engine? Bb

Also, at 13.4 volts I KNOW that test was right off of being charged. So that will change for sure as the battery isn't designed to hold much over 12.7 volts on the high end.

In most cases it is 12.2 to 12.4. Not an issue, just saying I doubt you really have above 13 volts normally.

 

[rckstr]

Joe, I understand the battery will go down a little. The reason it is reading so high is because it was hooked to a battery maintainer all day. So I went back out to run a few more tests with the meter and here is what I came up with. The battery had just came off the maintainer so it was obviously reading a little high (little over 13 volts). I put the meter on the battery and it was reading a little over 13 volts, when I hit the start button, it dropped to 12.6. I then put the meter on the starter solenoid and it read 12.8 on the hot side, when I hit the starter it would drop to 12.2. On the opposite side (going to the starter) it read 0, then when I hit the starter button it would jump to 12.2. So as long as the wire is connected, I should have 12.2 volts going to the starter. Not good

 

[Coastiejoe]

Joe, I understand the battery will go down a little. The reason it is reading so high is because it was hooked to a battery maintainer all day. So I went back out to run a few more tests with the meter and here is what I came up with. The battery had just came off the maintainer so it was obviously reading a little high (little over 13 volts). I put the meter on the battery and it was reading a little over 13 volts, when I hit the start button, it dropped to 12.6. I then put the meter on the starter solenoid and it read 12.8 on the hot side, when I hit the starter it would drop to 12.2. On the opposite side (going to the starter) it read 0, then when I hit the starter button it would jump to 12.2. So as long as the wire is connected, I should have 12.2 volts going to the starter. Not good

Ok,, that kind of info is very helpful...

If you remove the spark plugs and turn it over by hand or the starter will turn it over (confirming it isn't locked up is all), then yes, You need a starter..

Do NOT,, I repeat, do NOT buy a aftermarket starter. It is VERY rare to actually find one with a darn. Either rebuild yours, get your rebuilt, or buy an OEM new or used one either from the dealer or a fellow member. Heads us,, BIG DOLLARS new from dealer..

 

[Coastiejoe]

Much of the test were to confirm a quality battery and good connections. Based on your tests, I think they are good.

 

[rckstr]

Thanks Joe. I took the plugs out and turned the shaft by hand under the ski. Seemed to turn easily. Ive started a new thread to try and get the starter out.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Thanks Joe. I took the plugs out and turned the shaft by hand under the ski. Seemed to turn easily. Ive started a new thread to try and get the starter out.

I saw that,,, but I'm not the one to help you with that one. I am a very logical person and grasp concepts and cause and effect things well. Very mechanical as well, but,,,, I have not done enough mechanical work on skis to help with the specifics of the removal...

By chance do you have a manual? If so, do you look in it to see if it helps with the R/R of the starter?