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01' GTX DI Cranks but won't fire.

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I have never seen the pressure rise so slowly with all that cranking. But, it does seem you are on the right track now, with the latest video.

I have two of the $40 "gold" pumps running fine in a couple of mine. The eBay pic looks the same as mine, however there are no numbers or other identifying marks on mine. I paid $40 without any strainers, so 68RT is correct that it seems like a good deal. I have tested the "gold" pump at only about a 6 amp current draw. There is no anti-backflow valve so the 27 psi with key on won't hold when the pump stops, and I had to plug the pressure relief port on mine to get high enough pressure. If they are selling this for the DI Seadoos then they may have the relief plugged already, or it is a slightly different pump.

However, if you have revived your OE pump perhaps you can get some more life from it, and it only draws about 4 to 5 amps. The video did sound like it was bogging a little since it should immediately rev when blipping the throttle.
 
I have never seen the pressure rise so slowly with all that cranking. But, it does seem you are on the right track now, with the latest video.

I have two of the $40 "gold" pumps running fine in a couple of mine. The eBay pic looks the same as mine, however there are no numbers or other identifying marks on mine. I paid $40 without any strainers, so 68RT is correct that it seems like a good deal. I have tested the "gold" pump at only about a 6 amp current draw. There is no anti-backflow valve so the 27 psi with key on won't hold when the pump stops, and I had to plug the pressure relief port on mine to get high enough pressure. If they are selling this for the DI Seadoos then they may have the relief plugged already, or it is a slightly different pump.

However, if you have revived your OE pump perhaps you can get some more life from it, and it only draws about 4 to 5 amps. The video did sound like it was bogging a little since it should immediately rev when blipping the throttle.

Thanks for the reply. The aftermarket pump should be in the mail when I get home today. I will put it in and let you guys know the outcome. I also looked at your post regarding rigid connection, I'm definitely going to follow that route.
 
Ok, so you guys won't believe this. I have the new pump installed. I followed [MENTION=35915]DooWacka[/MENTION]'s thread to a T ( http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?61195-Seadoo-DI-(Direct-Injection)-Fuel-Pump-Replacement-Guide&p=325621#post325621 ), I put it all back together and when I put the key on, I get no pressure on the gauge. I did so multiple times and still no pressure, and I could hear gas squirting into the rail, or at least it sounded like it. I then tried putting the key on a few more times, still no pressure. I tried starting it by cranking and cranking, still no pressure. I hit it with a burst of ether in the intake and it started, kept running, still had 0 pressure on the gauge. I turned it off. Waited for about 10 minutes. Then tried to start it again, wouldn't start, still no pressure. I put the key on and while the pump was humming, I tried to start it and it started and ran. I cut it off and tried to start it again, no luck. I'm thinking there is something wrong with this pump, if there is, I'm just going to order one from High Flow and call it a day, there seems to be no complaints with their product. Here is a link to the video of the ski running with no pressure. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NOKjPhklAUg&feature=youtu.be
 
Also, here's a picture of the pump before I installed it into the assembly [MENTION=57696]68ragtop[/MENTION], [MENTION=35915]DooWacka[/MENTION]. photo (4).jpg
 
I would be questioning the gauge or the connection to the gauge. You obviously have pressure if the ski is running. So figure out that issue first.

You have to verify accurate pressure for start-up, You may even have a fuel leak in the baffle near the new pump that could be bleeding off pressure for starting. Verify that with the gauge though.
 
Nothing changed regarding the gauge and the set up, it's exactly the same from the videos before. I took the set up apart then hooked it back up after inspecting. I'm wondering if it has something to do with the pressure relief port as [MENTION=35915]DooWacka[/MENTION] mentioned in the post above.
 
I talked to the seller at ERZ Performance. He is sending me another one and said if that one doesn't work, to let him know and he'll refund me the money I paid for the item and that I can just throw them away, not to worry about sending them back. That lowered my confidence to a level of thinking these pumps they have are just plain garbage. I'm going to order the one from high flow fuel on Monday if this 2nd pump is having the same or similar issue.
 
you should really have your pressure gauge on it. when it hits 27 lbs at the regulator, it will return anything over that amount of pressure. I believe that's what your seeing. you should also see that return when your cranking it over as well. when cranking, the fuel pump is powered up the entire time. the air pressure will go up, as well as the fuel regulators "blow off" point. this pressure will be over 100 lbs, closer to the target 107 during cranking. if it doesn't return, I suspect the pump is not building enough pressure.

A gauge would still be the best to know whats really going on.
 
you should really have your pressure gauge on it. when it hits 27 lbs at the regulator, it will return anything over that amount of pressure. I believe that's what your seeing. you should also see that return when your cranking it over as well. when cranking, the fuel pump is powered up the entire time. the air pressure will go up, as well as the fuel regulators "blow off" point. this pressure will be over 100 lbs, closer to the target 107 during cranking. if it doesn't return, I suspect the pump is not building enough pressure.

A gauge would still be the best to know whats really going on.


I have the gauge hooked up while doing this. It's registering no pressure. It seems like the fuel is running through freely and theres nowhere for the pressure to build. Here's the video of me trying to start the ski after seeing that the fuel is returning. When I try to start it, there's no fuel returning, or no fuel pressure building. Makes no sense. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JHdhNFz4EgE
 
Just thinking..... . is there a chance your tee has a Schroeder valve in it thats not being held in?
If fuel comes back from the rail, it has to hit 27 psi before that will happen, unless your regular is bad, but I doubt that. I thought I could hear the sound of the pump change. that change in sound would be consistent with pressure changing. Somethings goofy with the gauge I am guessing?
 
Just thinking..... . is there a chance your tee has a Schroeder valve in it thats not being held in?
If fuel comes back from the rail, it has to hit 27 psi before that will happen, unless your regular is bad, but I doubt that. I thought I could hear the sound of the pump change. that change in sound would be consistent with pressure changing. Somethings goofy with the gauge I am guessing?

I've checked the valve to make sure it's good. I received the 2nd pump from the manufacturer, it's the same brand and type as the 1st, he sent the 2nd to see if the 1st was a dud. I'm getting the same results. Videos are below.

Showing that the gauge works.:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAntoX1QQx8&feature=youtu.be

Trying to start with the 2nd new pump and also the setup of the gauge:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HZeIf8ktAHM&feature=youtu.be

Engine starting and running with 2nd new pump due to a burst of ether, also showing low pressure:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2a6janehAK0&feature=youtu.be

I believe that these pumps are just too weak and cannot put out enough psi. With that being said, should I go with the walbro gss-342 or should I get the pump from high flow fuel? I can get the walbro for pretty cheap, the high flow fuel is $150. Difference of $90. Thanks again for all the help.
 
This is a major issue with the DI's so IMHO I wouldn't scrimp. I'd pay the extra and get the one that you know works. BTW I had 2 DI's but was lucky I only had the rectifier issues - but with both!
 
This is a major issue with the DI's so IMHO I wouldn't scrimp. I'd pay the extra and get the one that you know works. BTW I had 2 DI's but was lucky I only had the rectifier issues - but with both!

Yea, I'm just trying to get the thing starting normally so that I can take it out and find out why it goes into limp mode. I have not been able to get that far yet unfortunately.
 
So just to confirm, your not getting fuel on the return line when you get no/low pressure?

If there is no returned fuel, your pump is still the problem IMO. IT should build pressure in seconds.
 
So just to confirm, your not getting fuel on the return line when you get no/low pressure?

If there is no returned fuel, your pump is still the problem IMO. IT should build pressure in seconds.

I'm getting returned fuel. I'm going to try either the Walbro GSS-342 or the pump from High Flow Fuel.
 
I'm getting returned fuel. I'm going to try either the Walbro GSS-342 or the pump from High Flow Fuel.

You might have a bad pump, but one thing you are saying is telling me you need to double check something else. The way the fuel rail & pressures work, is the regulator stays closed until it reaches the correct pressure. For example, when you put the key on & do not crank the engine. The pump runs for 2-3 seconds (just like in your video) until the pressure reaches 27 lbs on your gauge, no fuel should be coming out of the return line. So if you put your key on, & you see little too no pressure but there is fuel coming out of the return line. your regulator is not functioning correctly.

please confirm this before you change pumps again.
 
You might have a bad pump, but one thing you are saying is telling me you need to double check something else. The way the fuel rail & pressures work, is the regulator stays closed until it reaches the correct pressure. For example, when you put the key on & do not crank the engine. The pump runs for 2-3 seconds (just like in your video) until the pressure reaches 27 lbs on your gauge, no fuel should be coming out of the return line. So if you put your key on, & you see little too no pressure but there is fuel coming out of the return line. your regulator is not functioning correctly.

please confirm this before you change pumps again.

Sure thing, will do so tomorrow after work and will report back.
 
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