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01 di fuel pump o-ring replacement

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HI forum, its getting that time again here in the carolinas, just finished rebuilding both DI's engines, was speaking with high flow fuel about low fuel pressure on the new fuel pumps from last year, they suggested that the o-ring on the fuel pump feed tube could be worn creating lower pressures and causing early fuel pump failure, i have searched all the parts sources and no one lists the o-ring in any of the parts groups, has anyone found a suitable replacement, thanks robert
 
HI forum, its getting that time again here in the carolinas, just finished rebuilding both DI's engines, was speaking with high flow fuel about low fuel pressure on the new fuel pumps from last year, they suggested that the o-ring on the fuel pump feed tube could be worn creating lower pressures and causing early fuel pump failure, i have searched all the parts sources and no one lists the o-ring in any of the parts groups, has anyone found a suitable replacement, thanks robert

Robert: there are automotive parts suppliers that can custom make a replacement hose assembly. otherwise, you may try to match the o-ring up from the fuel system with one from an auto or boat manufacturer. Good luck! let me know if you find anything. I have a Di engine I am working on now.
 
thanks boyd, the o- in question is the one that the fuel pump slides up and down on in the fuel canister, been a mechanic 43 yrs, been working on seadoos now since 2013, this oring is conical, and fits down in the tube, as you will soon discover the DI motors are quite a handfull, if i could go back to then when i bought both mine i would go another direction, i have two other GTX's carburated models, and they are as dependable as you can ask for, they just dont have the power of the DI's i built these two engines for my DI's over the winter, change the color of mine to green silver and black, cant wait to get them on the water anyways good luck, if i can be of any help let me know, BLUE ENGINE.jpg
 

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Robert, thanks for responding! "DI motors are quite a handful" without a doubt! I have never had more issues working on a boat engine EVER!
Any luck with the O-ring?
I LIKE the colors! What did you paint them with?
is there a special tool needed to tighten the flywheel?
Thanks!!!
 
the engines are powder coated, every part, the green one is granny smith candy apple green, the blue one is candy apple blue, the cylinders and front covers are black wrinkle powder coat, i didnt know anything about jetskis when i bought both of mine, i got took to school real fast, the skis were in huricane sandy and sat under salt water for a while, the engines outside were corroded badly, but the insides were much worse, the day i bought them and took them to the lake, backed them off the trailer and didnt make it to the other side of the dock, before the high temp head sensor faulted on both of them, the water passages were closed completely with salt, both heads had to be replaced, both complete pipes, it was horrible, and expensive, i bought a candoo scanner and went to work learning the DI's systems, and yes your right, they are a handfull, my engines were so bad corroded, that no one would powder coat them, so i went on youtube and taught myself how to powder coat, lmao, so now i have a 16 foot powder coat spray box and a 8x8 oven, that has turned into a part time business, lol and has grown into hydro graphics,as well

to torque the flywheel, wait till you have the cylinders and head back on, stuff a couple clean wrags through the rave ports and rotate the engine till the wrags stop the crank from rotating, and then torque the flywheel nut, wont hurt a things, (poor mans flywheel lock) i have rebuilt the pumps, solas props and solas intake grates, the entire charging systems, and the fuel systems, if you ever have fuel issues, the high flow pump, for 68.00 with a no hassle free lifetime replacement, are within seadoo specs and work great, i love the way the GTX's ride and run, so i keep putting money into them, lol ive enclosed a few pics to let you see where i started, my girlfriends DI has been changed to candy apple blue, silver and with black bottoms finger throttles and new seat covers, mine i have changed to the 2012 camaro bright green silver body and black bottoms, with black tip lime seat covers, i will have it ready by the 4 th of july holiday,

IMG_20160628_194731.jpg

CANDY BLUE ENGINE STATOR BEFORE.jpg
GREEN CASES BEFORE.jpg
IMG_20170212_174954.jpg
BLUE ENGINE CASES BEFORE.jpg
CANDY BLUE ENGINE AFTER WATER BLASTING AND POWDER COATING WRINKLE BLACK.jpg
GRANNY SMITH CASES BEFORE.jpg
 
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the engines are powder coated, every part, the green one is granny smith candy apple green, the blue one is candy apple blue, the cylinders and front covers are black wrinkle powder coat, i didnt know anything about jetskis when i bought both of mine, i got took to school real fast, the skis were in huricane sandy and sat under salt water for a while, the engines outside were corroded badly, but the insides were much worse, the day i bought them and took them to the lake, backed them off the trailer and didnt make it to the other side of the dock, before the high temp head sensor faulted on both of them, the water passages were closed completely with salt, both heads had to be replaced, both complete pipes, it was horrible, and expensive, i bought a candoo scanner and went to work learning the DI's systems, and yes your right, they are a handfull, my engines were so bad corroded, that no one would powder coat them, so i went on youtube and taught myself how to powder coat, lmao, so now i have a 16 foot powder coat spray box and a 8x8 oven, that has turned into a part time business, lol and has grown into hydro graphics, to torque the flywheel, wait till you have the cylinders and head back on, stuff a couple clean wrags through the rave ports and rotate the engine till the wrags stop the crank from rotating, and then torque the flywheel nut, wont hurt a things, (poor mans flywheel lock) i have rebuilt the pumps, solas props and solas intake grates, the entire charging systems, and the fuel systems, if you ever have fuel issues, the high flow pump, for 68.00 with a no hassle free lifetime replacement, are within seadoo specs and work great, i love the way the GTX's ride and run, so i keep putting money into them, lol ive enclosed a few pics to let you see where i started, my girlfriends DI has been changed to candy apple blue, silver and with black bottoms finger throttles and new seat covers, mine i have changed to the 2012 camaro bright green silver boday and black bottoms, with black tip lime seat covers, i will have it ready by the 4 th of july holiday,

View attachment 40035

View attachment 40036
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View attachment 40038
GRANNY SMITH CASES BEFORE.jpg
IMG_20170212_174954.jpg
 

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Nice job!
Use rope down the spark plug hole to lock the crank, not rags. Rags can get stuck in the rings.
 
The "O-ring" is really a double lipped seal instead of an O-ring. I have never heard of a replacement, in fact my friend who is a BRP certified dealership mechanic says they can't get them, so they have to replace the entire fuel module ($800+).

I have replaced these by liberating the seal from a discarded module. The dealership just tosses the old fuel pump module when they replace them, so I just asked them to save it and call me.
 
Robert! I have a question. I rebuilt the compressor also with all new parts including compressor piston, rings, connecting rod, bolt etc (all SD parts). The compressor has almost NO compression. I put my finger over the hole and barely feel anything. I had no issues with the compressor before disassembly. I took it apart again and I see absolutely nothing wrong. It would be one thing to have LOW compression, but almost nothing? the engine is spinning plenty fast, I put my hand by the areas where the gasket and seal are located and I dont feel any pressure escaping. I checked the piston/cyl wall clearance and ring end gap, and they are within specs. any ideas?
 
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