Woodruff/ flywheel key seadoo 787

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Brprxt215

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Hi guys lost spark the other week on my 96 XP. Pulled the stator cover to discover the mag cover only had 3 out of the 6 bolts in it. Sheared those three bolt heads right off leaving my stator, and mag cup ruined. Pulled the flywheel to install a new one and it sheared the woodruff key as well. Attached are some pictures. It doesn’t show very well but it looks like part of the key fell into the groove on the crank. Does it look possible for me to use a small flat head and try and dig the pieces of the key and get them out of the slot and just install a new woodruff key and be good to go? I am trying to do all this with the engine still in the ski.
 

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Really don’t want to remove the engine since I’ve never done it. This is the deepest I’ve dug into a ski before. Plus the alignment is fine and compression is perfect (150,150). I already have the old fly wheel removed and bought a good used one with a new mag cover and also a stator updated pick up and stator cover ready to be bolted on. I am just trying to figure out the best way to go about making sure I can install a new woodruff key onto the crank if even possible with the way the old one sheared off. Thank you.
 
Tap the woodruff key at the top closest to seal and see if it will move forward as the crank side of key has a radius
Spray som WD40 to help free it up
Once it moves just keep tapping forward and aft and it should loosen up and then fall out or grab it with a Vice Grip
 
Do you get it out ??
I got it out and cleaned the taper of the crank with scotch brite and acetone. I put the new key in and it rocks front to back slightly I’m a little hesitant that I’m going to knock it out when I install the fly wheel. I was wondering if I should put a dab of loctite or grease on the moon shape and let it set.
 
I got it all back together today loctite and torqued everything per manual specs. Went to crank it over and beck spark and I get the lights on the dash but the battery light starts blinking and I don’t even get a click out of the solenoid. Is it possible the battery is dead enough not to crank but still light up the gauges?
 
Yes, that is possible.
But I would still double check all your connections and plugs as well as the little black wire at the rear electrical box.
 
Yes, that is possible.
But I would still double check all your connections and plugs as well as the little black wire at the rear electrical box.
Well it’s not the battery I just put it on charge for a couple hours and tried it just now. I get the gauges to light up and the battery light stays off but when I press start button I get absolutely nothing. Still not even a click out of the solenoid. All fuses are good and all connections are clean and tight
 
It would still turn over before even with all the bad parts so I’m not sure what I disturbed when putting the new flywheel,mag cover, stator and pick up on.
 
I haven’t tried much as I was hoping it would turn over after getting it back together. I checked all fuses and connections and they are clean tight and good. It spins over nice and free by the crank I checked that before trying to turn it over to make sure nothing bound up. I’m going to start troubleshooting the electrical tomorrow. I just don’t understand what could have went wrong when I didn’t really mess with any of that stuff before I started this project
 
It's very possible, that an electrical connection, corrodes, as the ski is just static, corrosion waits for no one. I would check every electrical handshake connection. Check the front plug at the stator, the rear plug going into the rear box, and all the grounds in the rear box for corrosion.
 
I took off every connection at the beginning of the season. Trimmed wires back til they were clean and resoldered new ends on all positives and grounds. It turned over a week ago with all the bad parts on. I’m starting to lean more towards I pinched a wire putting the grey box back together after checking fuses
 
I took off every connection at the beginning of the season. Trimmed wires back til they were clean and resoldered new ends on all positives and grounds. It turned over a week ago with all the bad parts on. I’m starting to lean more towards I pinched a wire putting the grey box back together after checking fuses

Check the DESS post for continuity back to the MPEM, if you're getting the gauges to come on but no 2 beeps and 12 volts to the solenoid when attaching the lanyard, this may be your issue. .
 
It was the most dumb thing ever. There is a plug (yellow/red and black wires)that plugs into the solenoid with a water tight grommet on it. With the boot on it wasn’t making contact inside the holder. Took the boot off just to try it and it fired right up running mint again!
 
I have s saying always go back to what you have touched if it was running before you touched it

If it isn’t broken don’t touch it

Glad to here your up and running
 
Way to go, I just had a 951 DI that I had removed the pipe ( in 1 piece) ,to replace the intake and head gaskets. Before I did this , it started and ran, np. After, it would start and run for a second or 2 and die. I spent many many hours replacing parts and sensors from a running DI. Eventually, I got the candoo on it, and it suggested the stator wheel was loose, or timing teeth were missing, which made no sense. So, I reached down, and barely was able to push on the front plug, and it moved a bit and then went CLICK. Yup that stupid heavy pipe had dislodged the front plug ( I even had rags on that plug because I know how the heavy pipe will BREAK that plug) , just enough to cause me grief. Electrical gremlins are the worst!
 
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