Winterization opinions...

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muskokamarc

muskokamarc

Active Member
Hey guys,

So my neighbour has been winterizing my boats for the last few years and this was the first on the SeaDoo (07 Supercharged 215). I'm a bit hesitant to think he did all the required stuff, so I'll describe what he did to the best of my ability.

1) took out the spark plugs, sprayed fogging oil where they go.
2) took out the two hoses for the intercooler and attached some PVC tubing and used mouth pressure to shoot anti freeze through until the pink anti freeaze was coming out of the intake.
3) sprayed storage lube all over chrome parts in engine compartment.
4) Stabilized the gas

*Going to do oil in the spring*

The seadoo is being stored in our garage throughout the winter and I made sure to leave the seats somewhat open.

We didn't start the seadoo at all once it was out of the water, and I'm wondering if that's something that is absolutely necessary or if it's ok the way it is.

Appreciate your opinions.
 
When stabilizing the gas, you need to run the engine for a few minutes after adding the stabilizer to the tank to actually run some of the stabilizer completely through the fuel system. That is where all the problems will happen with old gas. You can actually smell a change in the exhaust once the stabilizer gets all the way through the fuel system and is being burned in the engine. You mentioned he did not run the engine, so obviously did not do that.

You should also top off the fuel tank. A full tank is less prone to gathering water in the fuel due to condensation from the air in the tank.

When running the engine out of the water, you need to provide cooling water for the exhaust system to prevent damage. The procedure for that requires some specific sequencing of when to turn on the water hose to avoid pushing water into the actual engine. See the service manual.

Anytime after running the engine when freezing temps are anticipated, the wet exhaust system needs to be cleared of any water that may puddle in there to prevent any freeze damage. It is mostly self-draining, but there is a blow-out port on the newer boats that will get more of the water out of there using compressed air. It takes a bit of air volume and pressure to really get it completely dry. Not sure if that is needed on the '07. As mentioned - check the service manual.

Some models also can collect water in the intake system. There is a procedure to remove the air intake hose and make sure the water is cleared from that area. Check the service manual.

You did not mention changing the oil (and filter). The recommendation is to change the oil (and filter) in the fall prior to seasonal storage. The idea being that leaving the old oil sitting in the engine with any condensation or water that may be in it could be worse on the engine. I personally think that doesn't matter too much when you change the oil as long as you change it once per season. But doing it in the fall does get your oil changed at least once a year and in the spring you don't have to mess around changing the oil that first nice day when you would rather be out riding and then never get around to it.

The above step of running the engine for a few minutes will also help with the oil change. It is a lot easier to suck the oil out the dipstick tube when it is warm than if the machine has been sitting in cold (freezing here in MN) weather with the oil as thick as molasses.

I would also suggest disconnecting the battery to prevent any possible slow draw from on-board electronics. A discharged battery will age itself a lot faster and may freeze. Best would be to top off the battery charge at least a couple times over the winter or connect a battery maintainer.

Also in the spirit of making the machine instantly ready to go again in the spring, its a a good time for a wash, detailing, and wax job while you have it on the trailer.
 
LakesideRec said:
When stabilizing the gas, you need to run the engine for a few minutes after adding the stabilizer to the tank to actually run some of the stabilizer completely through the fuel system. That is where all the problems will happen with old gas. You can actually smell a change in the exhaust once the stabilizer gets all the way through the fuel system and is being burned in the engine. You mentioned he did not run the engine, so obviously did not do that.

You should also top off the fuel tank. A full tank is less prone to gathering water in the fuel due to condensation from the air in the tank.

When running the engine out of the water, you need to provide cooling water for the exhaust system to prevent damage. The procedure for that requires some specific sequencing of when to turn on the water hose to avoid pushing water into the actual engine. See the service manual.

Anytime after running the engine when freezing temps are anticipated, the wet exhaust system needs to be cleared of any water that may puddle in there to prevent any freeze damage. It is mostly self-draining, but there is a blow-out port on the newer boats that will get more of the water out of there using compressed air. It takes a bit of air volume and pressure to really get it completely dry. Not sure if that is needed on the '07. As mentioned - check the service manual.

Some models also can collect water in the intake system. There is a procedure to remove the air intake hose and make sure the water is cleared from that area. Check the service manual.

You did not mention changing the oil (and filter). The recommendation is to change the oil (and filter) in the fall prior to seasonal storage. The idea being that leaving the old oil sitting in the engine with any condensation or water that may be in it could be worse on the engine. I personally think that doesn't matter too much when you change the oil as long as you change it once per season. But doing it in the fall does get your oil changed at least once a year and in the spring you don't have to mess around changing the oil that first nice day when you would rather be out riding and then never get around to it.

The above step of running the engine for a few minutes will also help with the oil change. It is a lot easier to suck the oil out the dipstick tube when it is warm than if the machine has been sitting in cold (freezing here in MN) weather with the oil as thick as molasses.

I would also suggest disconnecting the battery to prevent any possible slow draw from on-board electronics. A discharged battery will age itself a lot faster and may freeze. Best would be to top off the battery charge at least a couple times over the winter or connect a battery maintainer.

Also in the spirit of making the machine instantly ready to go again in the spring, its a a good time for a wash, detailing, and wax job while you have it on the trailer.
Click to expand...

Wow. Thanks for replying with all that info. Some people are sticklers with these sorts of things and make you feel like an idiot if you don't do it 100% like they said to. Very much appreciated your reasonable reply.

Marc
 
Winterizing information is freely available. The important thing with your supercharged model (which many people leave out) is to flush the intercooler. Your guy did OK - probably no need to fog the cylinders but you might as well have changed the plugs while they were out.
 
Some people skip the antifreeze part and just use the compressed air, the important part is to not leave standing water in your exhaust or intake systems. Your actually draining not flushing in the winterization process. If you store in a heated space not necessary.
 
Someone at the dealer told me that I had to "flush" (empty of water) my supercharger. He said the right way to do so was to "disconnect the pipe that goes to the supercharger" and give a few whirls of gaz and the water would come flying out. I have no idea which pipe to disconnect so I wasn't sure what to do, and when you mentioned "intercooler" I thought you meant the supercharger.

Any idea what they meant by flushing the supercharger? If I followed the above procedure (although the pressure in my compressor would quickly fall due to link between the compressor and the hose not being sealed) can I assume that my supercharger was also "flushed"?

Thanks
 
No flushing or draining of the supercharger. Your explanation sounds like how the service manual explains to drain an external intercooler. You disconnect the outlet hose of the intercooler and rev the engine to 4000 several times expelling the water from the intercooler. If you have a supercharger with an external intercooler(260 engine).
 
The 215 has a internal intercooler, you only need to follow the steps outlined in the above video. I suggest you download a service manual for your particular ski. The owners manual suggests most of these procedures to be done by a Sea-Doo dealer but if you opt to DYI a service manual is a must.
 
And now that it's almost time to put the Doo back in the water I'm going to try and do the oil change and spark plugs myself.

Here are my questions:

1) What is the best oil I can get for the 2007 SeaDoo Wake (Supercharged 215)?

2) What spark plugs should I buy?

3) Do I need any tools/mechanisms to fill the oil? I know I'll need an oil extractor to remove the old oil.

Any other tips are appreciated!
 
Re: Oil - I'd only use the Sea-Doo XPS 4-stroke semi-synthetic oil (a synthetic blend designed to work optimally with the supercharger). Costs a little more but at leats you know they've tested it with their supercharged skis.
 
And download a service manual, very important you don’t overfill the oil quantity. Don’t dump all 4 quarts in, oil change quantity is less than 4.
 
muskokamarc said:
3) Do I need any tools/mechanisms to fill the oil? I know I'll need an oil extractor to remove the old oil.
Click to expand...

You will need the right size wrench to open the cover on the oil filter chamber (10mm maybe?). A rag is handy to catch the drips when you discard the old oil filter and when checking the dip stick. A funnel will be helpful when pouring in the new oil.
 
Appreciate all the tips. Really doesn't look too complicated and seems like it will save me a good amount of money in the long run.
 
Is there anything special I need to do since I have the supercharged model in terms of the oil change or even just preparing the machine for the season?
 
Just make sure NOT to use full synthetic oil - it doesn't provide enough friction for the supercharger washers. Use the Sea-Doo XPS four stroke semi-synthetic oil.
 
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