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What's Is The BEST Oil For A 587?

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SaltyDog251

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I've been reading forums and searching the net for a week on what oil to use in my 90 GT. the more I read the more I'm confused!

If money is not a factor what oil would be the best for the engine?
 
API-TC LOW ASH, avoid TCW3 and any "all-purpose" 2-stroke oil.

If you're using the factory oil injection system, you need to clean the tank, line and replace oil strainer filter first, if it's been filled with the wrong oil b/c mixing the correct and wrong oil will cause the mixed remnants to become gelatinous and will clog the injection system. The reason is, the detergent package used in other 2-stroke oils is incompatible with the API-TC detergent package.

The wrong oil will be anything that's designed for outboard engines, usually TCW3. The correct oil is API-TC LOW ASH, mineral or synthetic.

If I was running a 587 motor, I would probably use a mineral or blend API-TC LOW ASH but the synthetic API-TC LOW ASH version is another choice some folks prefer. Synthetic can handle more heat before decomposing and the larger engines require it. Personally, I don't believe synthetic provides the same level of downtime corrosion protection that mineral does.

If you plan to use the engine hard, synthetic lubrication should outperform.

XPS2 is the seadoo original equipment brand.
 
Motor Cycle shops carry the oil most times. Ask them to carry it. I did, went in 2 months later they already sold 4 gallons. You can find it on the Internet too.
 
Maybe I'll just block off the oil pump and pickup a jug of XPS2 synthetic oil.

I have a 15 minute idle to the river and I'm a little concerned about smoke and fouled plugs

Thanks
 
Why block off the oil pump? If you premix you will get more smoke and a higher chance of fouling plugs. XPS2 is expensive stuff and you will use more of it premixing.
 
I'm new to jet skis and it's an old oil pump so I'm worried about it failing and locking up the new engine. It was working but there was a little water in the oil tank and trashed a cylinder.


I know there weren't too many hours on it as it was from upstate NY and the season short
 
Why block off the oil pump? If you premix you will get more smoke and a higher chance of fouling plugs. XPS2 is expensive stuff and you will use more of it premixing.

This ^ is absolutely correct.

Sometime the barbed hose fittings come lose and leak so I would pressure test the oil pump by blocking off the two outlet nipples and apply no more than 5psi to the inlet nipple, submerge in a bucket of water and look for air bubbles.

And feel for smooth shaft rotation, a drill hooked to engine driven shaft (backwards rotation?) can give you an indication of how well it pumps oil.

Just some ides..... And new 5/32"ID Tygon F-4040-A oil lines are a good idea, also make sure the injection nozzles aren't plugged, clean them with carburetor solvent (acetone) and make sure the ball and spring check valves inside are functioning.
 
What is the advantage to keeping the pump? Less oil used?

Yes, you will notice a cable going to your oil pump and when you pull the throttle that cable turns the arm on the pump and pumps more oil. When you premix you are using the same amount of oil that would be required at WOT but at all times. With the oil pump you use a lot less oil at idle.

Do what Sportster said and test the pump and make sure the oil lines aren't brittle or frayed.

A buddy of mine picked up a premix ski and hates the process of fueling the thing lol.
 
What is the advantage to keeping the pump? Less oil used?

By my best calculation, my 951 boat uses greater than 60:1 average, with the injection system. If I used pre-mix I would need to mix 40:1 to protect during high speed operation.

Also, the spark plugs should last longer before fouling.

No guessing how many ounces of oil to add (I'd mix 5 gallons each time and pour that in tank to avoid guessing).

At least the jet ski tank is small and manageable, for a large boat with big tanks I'm always afraid the oil and fuel might separate or go stale. Caster bean oil pre-mix for example, will lose it's lubrication properties within a couple of weeks after mixing.

If your ski was a Yamaha, it might be the best choice to pre-mix b/c those injection systems weren't robust.

The Seadoo system if periodically maintained and adjusted properly, is quite robust. Like anything else though, lack of maintenance can become an engine killer.
 
Make you you really mix thoroughly the oil with gasoline because if you pour oil in gas, you will see it sinking at the bottom of your canister. This is what I am afraid of. In fact, when I did the burn-in of my new engine, I was under the impression that some of the XPS synthetic oil had settled at the bottom of the tank (causing me issues). But I will never be sure of that.

Benji.
 
If you are nervous regarding the oil pump working, there is a test procedure in the service manual; it does require removal of the pump which requires removing the carb(s) and RV cover. This is what you need to do to change the small (3/32) oil lines going from the pump anyway. If not done recently, the small lines should be replaced and while cleaning up the oil system is the ideal time. Keep in mind that the normal oil flow is very slow if using a drill to spin the pump shaft, but a bubble can be seen in both small oil lines if you use the semi-clear tygon lines (available at all lawnmower shops as fuel line).
 
You can use any API TC oil in in a non-power valve seadoo. Just use the same brand in the injection system. The easier way to test to is just put some premix in the tank start the ski and pull the oil pump lever all the way you will see the oil moving in the lines. No movement you are in bad shape. Make sure the oils doesn't fall back in the lines if that happens need to look the the check valves. I have never fouled a plug running pre-mix on a ski. My 97 Yamaha GP1200 have been pre-mix for 7 years. I beat the heck out of the ski and it works great.
 
Wrong thread

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