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What Is This Thing ???
- Thread starter gajipr
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fireball451
New Member
That looks to be half of a carbon ring.
It would be very important in reguards to keeping your Doo afloat and not filling up your engine bay with water and sinking.
It's basically the seal for your driveline.
It would be very important in reguards to keeping your Doo afloat and not filling up your engine bay with water and sinking.
It's basically the seal for your driveline.
fireball451
New Member
Pull the pump and separate the driveline.
You need to download a manual to get instructions for your model.
You need to download a manual to get instructions for your model.
Will check that out thank you, quick question Is it true without the carbone ring that water can only get in this way if you either physically pull it in reverse or drive it in reverse? Reason is well I have believe that carbone ring has been broken for quite some time and I have never had a drastic flood in the hull while on the water, but I always seem to have at least maybe a gallon at the bottom every time I get out of the lake it is a small amount of water.
thanks for all you assistance
cheers
thanks for all you assistance
cheers
MobileWaterCraft
New Member
The ski will flood period. If you run fast it is less likely to fill since that is when the bilge siphons work best. Running at low speeds in either direction or letting it sit for long periods will fill the hull rather quickly. You should replace the BOOT as well as the carbone ring since they work in unison. The boot acts like a sping to apply pressure to the carbone ring and the seal carrier.
Ok, Thanks out if this list which is the "BOOT"? what number
http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/seadooforums/Seadoo_oem/Seadoo_PWC.asp?Type=13&A=50&B=25
MobileWaterCraft
New Member
Parts to replace would be #17 "Boot" I also replace 2-#12's driveshaft bumpers
The rest can be bought from SBT in a kit #70-105A
The metal clamp on the driveshaft "near the PTO" can be replaced with zip ties. you only need to remove the small one for dis-assembly. Use stainless hose clamps on the "boot". Use plenty of good marine grease when you reassemble it.
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carbon ring
Make sure that the carbon ring in the ski now is actually broken. I've seen skis' that have good carbon rings but that have pieces of old carbon rings laying in the bottom of the hull from a past repair. A broken carbon ring such as the one in your picture will cause a ski to start sinking "big time" when you first put it in the water. It doesn't sound like your leak is that severe.
DAWG
Make sure that the carbon ring in the ski now is actually broken. I've seen skis' that have good carbon rings but that have pieces of old carbon rings laying in the bottom of the hull from a past repair. A broken carbon ring such as the one in your picture will cause a ski to start sinking "big time" when you first put it in the water. It doesn't sound like your leak is that severe.
DAWG
Thats a great opinion I think you might be right well at least I really hope so, I dont want to have to replace all of those things it's $$$..I have owned this for over a month and I have never had any signs of sinking water is never in the hull enough to make it seem like there is a leak. I will let you guys know what happens when I take her out soon, btw does anyone know how these thing break is it an overnight thing or from long period of wear and tear..
THANK YOU ALL
MobileWaterCraft
New Member
Carbone rings rarely break into pieces like that. More often than not they simply wear down till the seal is not complete and you begin to take on more and more water progressively. If they break like that it is usually a sign of more damage elswhrere, like broken motor mounts.
Grab your exhaust and try to rock the moto from side to side while watching the motor mounts to check for breakage in them.
I have see some rings break from a tech using a 1/4 drive air ratchet to tighten the clamp. It doesn't need to be that tight!
If that is "YOUR" cabone ring then you would be able to see that it is missing. Look on the driveshaft for the flange of the ring between the boot and the stainless steel carrier. The taller 1/4 in part of the flange will be visible between them.
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Flooded Almost.
You Guys Really Helped Me Greatly I Was Ignorant Today And Took It Out To The Lake. It Shot Off Great Hit 30 In Seconds As I Approach Center Part Of The Lake I Get A Dramatic Drop In Speed And Start To Feel Ton Of Weight ! So I Was Lucky Enough To Be Able To Cruise Back To The Dock At About 10mph Which Was About 150yards Away I Get To Dock And I Open The Rear Seat And "holy Crap"! Half Flooded But Thank God It Did Not Get In To The Carb It Got Just About The Rear Electrical Box.
Now Thanks To You All I Know What I Need To Fix The Issue Thank You So Much.
Last Question Do I Have To Pull The Propulsion System Out To Get Te Part Carbon Ring Out And Replaced?
You Guys Really Helped Me Greatly I Was Ignorant Today And Took It Out To The Lake. It Shot Off Great Hit 30 In Seconds As I Approach Center Part Of The Lake I Get A Dramatic Drop In Speed And Start To Feel Ton Of Weight ! So I Was Lucky Enough To Be Able To Cruise Back To The Dock At About 10mph Which Was About 150yards Away I Get To Dock And I Open The Rear Seat And "holy Crap"! Half Flooded But Thank God It Did Not Get In To The Carb It Got Just About The Rear Electrical Box.
Now Thanks To You All I Know What I Need To Fix The Issue Thank You So Much.
Last Question Do I Have To Pull The Propulsion System Out To Get Te Part Carbon Ring Out And Replaced?
Well today while replacing the carbone ring I just decided to remove the engine and well found out that one of my engine mounts is no good so that explains things I also had an airleak on the exhaust probably caused by the excessive engine movement due to the lack of one engine mount what do you guys think?
faded
Active Member
i'm here too late but, .................. a simple way to check for leaks is to fill the hull with water while you are on your trailer. you will see it leaking out the bottom of the craft if you have a leak. don't actually "fill" it, but add enough water to cover areas that may be leaking. 
i'm here too late but, .................. a simple way to check for leaks is to fill the hull with water while you are on your trailer. you will see it leaking out the bottom of the craft if you have a leak. don't actually "fill" it, but add enough water to cover areas that may be leaking.
Do you mean while the engine is out and test to see if there are any leaks in the hull? Or to test to see if there are leaks around the drive shaft while filling it up with enough water?
Thanks man
faded
Active Member
you can do it with the engine in to test for leaks around the drive shaft. i'd rather sink in my driveway than out on the open water.
faded
Active Member
yes, it sounds like that ring will help. :agree:
One of the engine mounts were totally missing it was deteriorated, this is my first seadoo I wonder how much less vibration I will experience? Last question does anyone know if there are any special engine alignment procedure that are needed to be done now that engine going back in?
MobileWaterCraft
New Member
Guess I got that diagnosis correct.
As long as you do not remove any of the original shims your alignment should be fine(IE 3 shims front right?, put 3 back.). I spray a bit of paint on my mount bolts before I remove them and then use that to re-align. Make sure you replace ALL mounts. Nothing worse than having to do the same job twice. It worked out for you this time but, in the future to replace a carbone ring. Push the carrier seal(stainless steel piece on the shaft) and remove the "C" clip first. Older style used a rubber O ring. Sometimes the carrier is stuck, use a rubber hammer to gently move it back to get to the clip. Then pull the pump and slide the shaft back. Personally I replace the carrier, carbone ring and boot.
As long as you do not remove any of the original shims your alignment should be fine(IE 3 shims front right?, put 3 back.). I spray a bit of paint on my mount bolts before I remove them and then use that to re-align. Make sure you replace ALL mounts. Nothing worse than having to do the same job twice. It worked out for you this time but, in the future to replace a carbone ring. Push the carrier seal(stainless steel piece on the shaft) and remove the "C" clip first. Older style used a rubber O ring. Sometimes the carrier is stuck, use a rubber hammer to gently move it back to get to the clip. Then pull the pump and slide the shaft back. Personally I replace the carrier, carbone ring and boot.
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